Sailing The Shipping Forecast With Rev Coles S01E01

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Transcript

00:00now it's time for the shipping forecast Shannon West Bearing northwest three to

00:07five for over a hundred years sailors and fishermen have received daily

00:12life-saving warnings from the shipping forecast it's now a national institution

00:21and its soothing tones have become a recognizable comfort to all good occasionally moderate dividing

00:29UK and surrounding waters into 31 areas it predicts wind weather and visibility for those venturing out

00:37to see with modern technology now providing 24-hour forecasting the twice daily shipping

00:48forecast is no longer the only safety guide for those at sea I wish I was on yours for me the

00:59shipping forecast is timeless it's like almost a prayer yeah it's comforting comforting I'm going

01:06to make those poetic words Faroes white Thames Lundy the blueprint for an epic journey around some of

01:14our beautiful coasts we're sort of on a collision course meeting the people on and offshore this

01:22amazing this is beautiful whose lives depend on the weather of the sea oh my goodness look at that

01:29I'll do one of my famous engine prayers if you like

01:33cut some fish yeah with the most amazing views may the force be with you

01:41rain and showers perhaps thundery later moderate or good Lundy Fastnet Irish Sea variable two or three

02:00becoming southwest three or five later fog patches moderate or good the Lundy Sea area takes its name

02:11from a small granite island off the Devon coast it's a triangle of roughly 7,000 square miles linking

02:19Ireland Wales Devon and Cornwall it's an area of notoriously stormy seas where the Bristol Channel meets the Atlantic Ocean

02:28these waters have long been important for shipping fishing and trade and today they're also home to coastal

02:38communities holiday resorts and fishing villages it's a place where daily life is shaped by the power of the

02:48weather and the sea we're better to start than the Cornish coast a thousand kilometers of spectacular scenery and ancient villages

03:03it's 5 30 a.m. in Port Isaac and only local fishermen Callum seems to be awake this village has earned its keep from

03:18fishing since the 14th century and Callum has invited me aboard his cheetah catamaran the Evan George

03:25stand on the front bit get your leg over anything you say boss

03:29in the words of my favorite shark themed film you're going to need a bigger boat and where's my stateroom

03:36wait till you see your en suite

03:43attention all shipping the forecast for Port Isaac is fair becoming good risk of engine trouble later

03:51why is it so funky here well we're right on the edge of the Atlantic Ocean right you'd look out there's there's no land to America from here so any large swells got a long time to

04:06be better for fishermen like Calum predicting stormy weather can be a matter of life or death and in this part of Lundy which is so exposed to the elements it's especially important

04:21you wouldn't believe the number of forecasts I look at paid unpaid and it just you're just looking at a general theme for a few days yeah no one's really got much idea

04:34a few generations before what did sailors rely on fishermen rely on well they did use a shipping forecast I sometimes think for people who listen to it it's like almost a prayer it's a form of words that you get so used to

04:48yeah it's comforting comforting yeah I often hear if I'm going out early and have the radio on it often comes on and I do listen to it

04:55what do you want to hear when you switch on the shipping forecast what do you want Lundy to be doing

05:00no gales hopefully of course there are some things even the shipping forecast can't predict

05:07just hit there something I think we've just caught a bit of seaweed it's laying on the surface just seem to lost power there for a second

05:20all right can I make myself useful uh no not at the moment

05:24can you see the dolphins oh my goodness look at that look at that beautiful

05:36that's wonderful beautiful

05:51well try a bit more oil I'll do one of my famous engine prayers if you like that would be lovely

05:59well if anything like my arsenal prayers you wouldn't say that

06:04as Callum wrestles with the engine this unscheduled stop is making me realize how small this boat is and how vast and choppy the sea

06:16quite close to being sick

06:17oh

06:18preferably go over here would you

06:21a nice little gap

06:22thank you

06:23and it'll be better once we're moving

06:29as with every good journey I'm already learning new things about myself

06:33in this instance I'm not a good sailor

06:39you all right?

06:40I think I'm good

06:42right

06:43we're just going to give it a final try

06:45to see if um

06:46see if we have to abandon ship on

06:48good news

06:55good news

06:56yeah good news

06:57yeah yeah

06:58your prayer must have worked

06:59ha ha ha

07:00ha ha

07:01check the football scores

07:02as well

07:09things are looking up now we're on the move and finding my sea legs at last

07:14I don't go that far out into deeper water anymore because that's where the crab was but it's no longer there

07:33Callum's catch is being badly affected by climate change

07:37he used to bring up a mixed haul of crabs and lobsters

07:39but the crabs can't cope with the water warming up

07:4518.5 the water temperature

07:48that's the surface water temperature

07:49it's amazing

07:50it's madness isn't it

07:51it's utter madness

07:53so um

07:54that's the reason for the change

07:55what should it be?

07:56now

07:5816

07:59and that's a big difference two degrees

08:01yeah

08:02half a degree is a massive difference on the

08:04on the fishing side of things

08:06so where are the crab going?

08:09they're off into deeper watering further north

08:12so they're catching

08:13they're now catching crab

08:14like in Denmark

08:16where they've never caught it before

08:23all the red and orange flags around here

08:25is me

08:26so we're gonna pick up some lobsters and bring them in

08:29right

08:30so everything's connected in one long line

08:33yeah

08:35so this is ten lobster pots all connected together

08:38okay

08:40and how far down are they? 20 metres?

08:42so this is 26, 27 metres here

08:46well we've got our first lobster

08:47oh there we go, look at that

08:53all right

08:54quite lively

08:55yeah

08:56is that big enough?

08:57we have to get the measure out and have a look

08:59by law

09:00Callum can only keep lobsters

09:02if they're at least 90 millimetres

09:04from their eye socket

09:05to the end of their back

09:07the younger, smaller ones

09:09must be thrown back in the sea

09:10to breed

09:11and keep the population

09:12at a sustainable level

09:15well she's just big enough

09:16she?

09:17yep

09:18do you ever get nipped?

09:19i try and avoid it

09:20it does hurt

09:21it really hurts

09:22oh

09:23oh

09:24second pot

09:25second lobster

09:26that was said was small

09:27yeah

09:28a bit smaller

09:29yeah

09:30a bit smaller

09:31yeah

09:32so this one's about

09:33i don't know

09:34four years old

09:35okay

09:36so we'll put that one back

09:37and have that one again

09:38in a few years

09:39it's hard work Callum

09:41it is very physical

09:42i mean you would need to

09:43be alright with that

09:44wouldn't you?

09:45there's no way

09:46cut the corner with that

09:47no

09:48no

09:49it's um

09:50it's a vocation

09:51yeah

09:52it's not um

09:53yeah it's not something you do

09:55for the money

09:56and you say vocation Callum

09:58but family business as well right

10:00so Trace's dad and grandad were doing this

10:02you've got

10:03and great grandad

10:04and great grandad

10:05yeah my son's desperate to do it

10:07he wants to fish

10:08yeah

10:09but he's um

10:10the economics of it

10:11he's

10:12he's

10:13he's struggling at the moment

10:15just to make it financially work

10:17to make it financially work

10:18yeah

10:19he's always come out with me from

10:21well since he could walk really

10:23and i say to him what do you want to do today

10:25and he say go fish

10:26and i say really on my day off

10:28just

10:29but he's always been super keen

10:31and now he's still

10:33he's a proper fully qualified marine engineer

10:35and he delivers you know like super yachts and things

10:37so he's working on the sea

10:39he's working on the sea

10:40but he wants to come back fishing

10:42but at the moment

10:43because we've lost the crab

10:44because of the

10:45global warming

10:46the viability is not there

10:49okay

10:50well hopefully we're not the last generation

10:53to go fishing from Paul Isaac

10:59this last pot coming up now

11:01excellent

11:02i'm feeling lucky

11:03feeling lucky?

11:04good

11:05good

11:06do you manage your prayer for this one as well?

11:08okay

11:09i'll do my best

11:10after four hours at sea

11:13we've caught just enough to head back to Port Isaac

11:16and offload the catch

11:17it's now 9am and Callum's wife Tracy is opening up their other business

11:30a seafood cafe where some of our freshly caught lobsters might become dish of the day

11:36who shall have a fishie

11:39hello

11:40who shall have a lobster

11:43when that boat comes in

11:44hello Tracy

11:45best catch ever

11:46my first lobster

11:48yeah

11:49yeah the first lobster caught

11:50missing dolphins

11:51minky whale

11:52gannets

11:53that's obvious

11:54but not many lobsters

11:55yeah

11:56so is it lobster in as many ways as you can

11:58yeah

11:59lobster lots of different ways

12:00yeah

12:01to suit all tastes hopefully

12:03so this is what they would call a kind of through business now

12:06you've got Callum catching them

12:08you're prepping them

12:09yes

12:10serving them

12:11yes

12:12so you get more of the benefit of that whole process

12:14yeah definitely

12:15yeah rather than whole

12:16Callum just wholesaling it

12:17yeah

12:18and that's a way of making it work

12:19yes

12:20could we do some prep

12:22yes yes

12:23excellent

12:24well i'm not going to keep you from the scene

12:25are you hungry?

12:26no no i'm off

12:27i'm always hungry

12:28thanks nice to meet you

12:29you too catch many more

12:30bye thanks

12:31so tracy what are we going to do?

12:33what would you like to make?

12:34i would like to make

12:36the most elaborate lobster termidor you've ever seen

12:39well happily just a regular lobster

12:42the idea of

12:43pulling a lobster out of the sea

12:45bringing it to you

12:46prepping it

12:48cooking it

12:49eating it

12:50all in one go

12:51i know

12:52it's a good feeling

12:53yeah

12:54the freshness you're going to get is fantastic

12:56on reflection perhaps simplicity seems best

13:01so you're looking for a nice clean cut all the way down

13:08yeah

13:09yeah just like that

13:11so to make the most of its freshness and flavour

13:14i'm opting for a simple but delicious sandwich

13:17look at that

13:18lovely

13:19put some salad leaves on

13:20again as much as you know as much as you like

13:22a little scatter

13:23yeah

13:24a little salad leaves

13:25so do you listen to the shipping forecast

13:26is that what every fisher person does

13:28to kind of tune into the shipping forecast

13:30and see what's happening

13:31when i was a child

13:32yeah

13:33and my dad was fishing from fort isaac

13:35we um

13:36so if he wasn't at home

13:37as children we had to listen to the shipping forecast

13:39and we used to have to write it down for him

13:41so if i went to say viking fortes

13:43cromity fortes

13:44you know what i was talking about

13:45yeah i know

13:46yeah it's in there

13:47and that just that rhythm ever

13:49is is so lovely isn't it

13:51pop a little bit of lemon on top

13:53excuse me if you don't mind

13:54well yeah

13:55make it you know

13:56you've been on masterchef

13:57you can do this

13:58thank you very very much indeed

14:00no one is touching this sandwich

14:03apart from the presenter

14:04just to be really clear about that

14:11lunch time

14:13what could be nicer

14:16lobster from the sea

14:19prepped by my own fair hand

14:22squeeze a lemon

14:23bon appétit

14:24mmm

14:26lovely all worthwhile

14:31it's been great to be here

14:32i've really enjoyed it

14:33what's most impressive is the way

14:35Callum and Tracy and everybody here

14:38has adapted to

14:41not the sort of timelessness of it

14:42but the changing circumstances

14:43right

14:44just like weather blowing in

14:45unpredictably from the Atlantic

14:47you never know

14:48whether your business is going to be

14:49viable or not

14:50there are all so many factors that

14:51come into play in that

14:52and i love the way they've adapted

14:53with resourcefulness that's just

14:54typical of fishing communities

14:55everywhere

14:56my hope is that

15:11just as Tracy

15:13you know

15:14three generations of fishermen

15:15before her

15:16i just hope there's a generation

15:17coming after

15:18their son will

15:19who will keep that tradition going

15:21obviously adapting it

15:22rejuvenating it

15:23reimagining it

15:25being creative

15:34variable two to four

15:35becoming northerly or northwesterly

15:37three to five

15:38occasionally six in north

15:40rain at times

15:42good

15:43I'm back on board ship

15:44exploring the Lundy Sea area

15:46on a beautiful vintage German ferry

15:49you join us on the pitching deck

15:52of the lovely MS Oldenburg

15:54making our way down the Bristol channel

15:56to the point where it becomes the

15:57Atlantic Ocean

16:04it's two hours by boat

16:06or ten choppy nautical miles

16:08from the coast of Devon

16:09to the tiny remote island

16:10that the Lundy Sea area is named after

16:13Since reading Treasure Island

16:17and Robinson Crusoe as a kid

16:18I've always wanted to have that

16:20castaway experience

16:21and celebrity jungle aside

16:23I have a feeling Lundy

16:24might be the closest I'll get

16:26this three mile long lump of rock

16:28is only accessible by ferry

16:29twice a week

16:30and only in summer

16:31in good weather

16:32this three mile long lump of rock

16:34is only accessible by ferry

16:35twice a week

16:36and only in summer

16:37in good weather

16:38look at that beautiful

16:40it is beautiful

16:41Lucy is one of the few people

16:42who grew up there

16:43it's a beautiful place to live

16:44but you've got to be a certain

16:45sort of person to be able to live there

16:47you know miles away from everything

16:49when the wind and the fog comes in

16:51that island is quite a rough place to be

16:53also an isolated place to be

16:54if the ship can't get there

16:55what do you do?

16:56so we get moments when the fog is bad

16:58the helicopter can't come in

16:59if there's an emergency then the lifeboat might go

17:01I think you love it don't you?

17:03I can tell you do

17:04I love it

17:05we're sort of on a collision course like that

17:27I've been looking to see a little swing to port

17:29I've been looking to see a little swing to port.

17:33Yeah, we're going, we're going.

17:37Let's go round here. OK.

17:40I think we might have a seal on the beach, but it's really hard to see.

17:43Oh, yeah, yeah, great seal.

17:45Oh, yeah, one's moving, yeah, all great seals there.

17:48So we're just coming down the east side,

17:51and then we've got the jetty just ahead of us,

17:54so the boat's going to moor up

17:56and you'll be able to get up on top of the island and have a look.

18:00Well, thanks so much for the introduction. No problem.

18:02I'm really looking forward to it. Have a super day.

18:04I hope you get the magic.

18:08Inhabited since the Iron Age, Lundy was colonised by marauding Vikings

18:12and in the 15th and 16th centuries

18:14even became an independent pirate kingdom.

18:21Now the only marauders are tourists,

18:23catered for by National Trust staff and volunteers.

18:29Hello, Richard. My name's Joe. I'm the island warden.

18:31Joe, what a pleasure. How was your sailing today?

18:33It was great, great. It's a pleasure to be here. I've always wanted to come.

18:35Excellent. Let's show you the island. Great.

18:40Joe has lived on the island for two years.

18:42His job is to make sure the bird population here is thriving.

18:46So for someone who's interested in birds, well then this is great

18:51because it's a sort of very distinctive environment and protected environment.

18:55It is, yes. So we're a site of special scientific interest.

18:58We've recently become a bird observatory.

19:00The water's behind us, a marine protected area.

19:03Some of the highest marine protections in the country.

19:06I'm an avid bird watcher,

19:09so Joe's offered to take me for a closer look at the cliffs

19:12where there's a huge colony of rare seabirds,

19:15including the Manx shearwater.

19:21A slim, black-winged bird the size of a small gull

19:24that winters in South America

19:26but breeds on islands around the UK.

19:29Manx shearwaters, they're burrow-nesting seabirds.

19:35They need predator-free environments.

19:37You're not going to get that on the mainland.

19:39You need an island that's free of rats.

19:41And Lundy here, for the last 20 years,

19:43has been a safe haven for these seabirds.

19:46Numbers have increased exponentially.

19:48We've now got over 40,000, 50,000 seabirds breeding on the island.

19:52Take me to your seabird.

19:54I would love to show you a chick, Richard. Come on this way.

19:56OK.

19:57Manx shearwaters often occupy pre-made burrows

20:01dug by rabbits or other birds,

20:03but Joe's made a few too to help the colony along

20:07and covered this one to protect the chick while we're filming.

20:14And this chick...

20:15Oh, my goodness, look at that.

20:17My goodness, look, that's a chick.

20:19Really?

20:20Absolutely, Richard.

20:21So this is being handled under a ringing licence, which I hold,

20:24so I'm happy for you to hold the bird.

20:26I just don't want to stress her.

20:28Let's hold that wing.

20:29That's perfect.

20:30You're doing really well, Richard.

20:31I love these birds.

20:32I seriously love them making shearwaters.

20:34I never thought I would ever hold a chick.

20:36It's wonderful.

20:37Very special.

20:38Beautiful.

20:39You've got the perfect grip.

20:41That is the most beautiful.

20:42Look at that veal.

20:43Long hook tip.

20:45Quite bitey.

20:46Quite bitey.

20:47They're perfectly evolved for catching squid, small fish.

20:51It's the most beautiful thing, isn't it?

20:54So downy and just...

20:56Absolutely.

20:57What's it about?

20:58Yeah, absolutely.

20:59We're going to reduce the amount of time this bird has got out in the environment.

21:05In you go, buddy.

21:08I can't believe I just held a Manx Shearwater.

21:12Um, is there a distinctive call to the Manx Shearwater?

21:16I'll do my best for you, Richard.

21:18All right.

21:19Um, you've got to imagine 25,000 birds going...

21:21Flying all over the island, coming into the slopes.

21:27Just again, please.

21:28I'd like to hear yours.

21:30Bit coarser, bit coarser.

21:33Yes, perfect.

21:35You sound like a female.

21:36The male, slightly high-pitched.

21:37Hey, we're kind of fluid.

21:39Ha-ha!

21:40Ha-ha!

21:41Ha-ha!

21:42Ha-ha!

21:43Ha-ha!

21:44Ha-ha!

21:45Ha-ha!

21:46Ha-ha!

21:47Ha-ha!

21:48Ha-ha!

21:49Ha-ha!

21:50Ha-ha!

21:51Ha-ha!

21:52Ha-ha!

21:53With careful guardians like Joe around, Lundy has been nurtured by the Landmark Trust since

21:58the 1960s.

22:00But before then, wealthy and often eccentric owners made their own mark on the place.

22:06In the 1800s, the appropriately named Reverend Hudson Grosset Heaven built the church.

22:16In 1925, Martin Coles Harman bought the island, declared himself king and even introduced

22:23his own currency.

22:27How could you ever move from here?

22:30I don't.

22:31Seriously.

22:32It's pinch yourself a lot of the time.

22:34I can feel already, Joe, that the sort of stresses of living in a highly technological,

22:41busy, crowded world that affect you, I can feel them going.

22:45Dissipate immediately.

22:46The Lundy effect.

22:47It is absolutely Lundy time out here.

22:50My time is spent out on the cliffs, watching birds, watching wildlife.

22:54I've got a question for you.

22:55Go for it.

22:56It may be an indelicate question.

22:57Yeah.

22:58Romance.

22:59Yes.

23:00Someone in your life.

23:01Do you have to have that ready made before you come here?

23:03Can it bloom here?

23:04It's a small pool of people, right?

23:06That would help.

23:07You meet like-minded people out here.

23:09I see.

23:10So it actually becomes a bit of a love island in itself.

23:13So it could be Lunder instead of T.

23:14It could, yeah.

23:15Absolutely.

23:24The hub is the important thing, isn't it?

23:26We're in the middle of the island now.

23:28Tavern just down here.

23:30Five o'clock today.

23:31Once we wave the ship off, everyone's going to gather in there.

23:34In the pub.

23:35Decompress.

23:36Enjoy a pint in the pub.

23:37Talking about the terrible behaviour of touring.

23:39Absolutely, yeah.

23:40What about everyday stuff?

23:42Say you've kind of run out of sugar or something.

23:44Bang your neighbour's door, is there something you can do?

23:46I do have to knock on my neighbour's door and get the key to the shop.

23:49Aha.

23:50Just here.

23:51The Harrods of Lundy.

23:52Absolutely.

23:53Go check it out.

23:59Wow.

24:00Well, it has got a bit of everything.

24:02Look, savoy and cabbage.

24:04Very important.

24:05Hello.

24:06Sorry I've been interrupting your shopping.

24:09Oh, look.

24:10Coconut milk.

24:11Marigold's very important.

24:13That's very good.

24:15Blimey.

24:16Choice of Cabernet Sauvignon.

24:18Ah, that's what I'm after.

24:20My favourite chocolate bar containing coconut.

24:24I'll say no more than that, but...

24:26Can I buy this, please?

24:27Certainly.

24:28Thank you very much.

24:29Is money all right?

24:30Yes, we can take card or cash is fine.

24:32So that's 90 pence, please.

24:33Thank you very much.

24:35I've lived in a village where the village shop was really this sort of comm centre as well.

24:40You'd know everything, right?

24:41Oh, yes.

24:42Definitely.

24:43We know all the gossip.

24:44I should come back off camera and continue this conversation.

24:46Yes, absolutely.

24:47Absolutely.

24:48See you later.

24:49See you.

24:50I've been asking myself, could I live on Lundy?

24:51To be honest, although I wouldn't be short of aubergines, I've been asking myself, could

24:55I live on Lundy?

24:56To be honest, although I wouldn't be short of aubergines or my favourite bottle of Sauvignon, I'm not sure I have the temperament for it.

25:02I miss my friends too much and meeting new people.

25:09But I can see that for the right sort of person, Lundy's isolation is charming and its unspoiled beauty makes it a slice of paradise.

25:16Before I reduce its population by one and jump back on the ferry before I reduce its population by one and jump back on the ferry.

25:26There's a final thing I must do to get the best view of all.

25:48I guess the dead centre of Lundy, the shipping forecast area.

25:53The dead centre of Lundy, the shipping forecast area, is here, the old lighthouse on the island itself.

25:59Over there is Cornwall, and over there, through the haze, is Wales.

26:04And that's where we're going next.

26:06The next port of Cornwall is south-west Wales, where the Lundy Sea area borders a 200-mile strip of some of the most beautiful coast in Britain.

26:26The Gower Peninsula, west of Swansea, is an area of outstanding natural beauty, popular with walkers, surfers and bird watchers.

26:46Here they have unusually high tides, the second highest on Earth, in fact.

26:56Hi, Richard. Hey, Will. Great to meet you too.

26:59Yeah, nice to meet you too.

27:00This farm, complete with historic Webley Castle, has belonged to Will's family since the 1950s.

27:08For over 70 years, their sheep have grazed on the unique marshland.

27:14That's amazing. Look at that.

27:18I've never seen anything quite like it, because you've got the flat marsh, you've got the estuary, you've got the beach, you've got...

27:24well, like mountains and hills beyond.

27:26It's something, isn't it?

27:28The sea beyond the farm rises 10 metres at high tide, and when it recedes, leaves acres of almost unusable land.

27:38So, presumably when the tide comes in, how far does it come?

27:41It can come in and cover everything you can see, particularly if there's a high wind as well at the same time.

27:46So, well, I'm thinking that's a logistical issue for you if you've got animals out there.

27:51Yeah, we rely on tide times, we know when the tide's coming in, and we've always got to keep the guard frets,

27:56and then we've got to get out there and bring them in if we know there's got a tide coming.

27:59They look happy from here, but can we see them closer?

28:01Yeah, we'll have to go and have a look at them, yeah.

28:08There's nothing like clinging to the back of a farmer's quad bike to make you feel like easy rider,

28:13though uneasy rider might be a better description.

28:17So, Will, how many acres of marsh are there?

28:21Oh, several thousand acres, yeah.

28:28So happy sheep with big marsh to graze on.

28:30They've got a lovely area to graze on.

28:32They can go to the beach if they wanted, and they can do it all, yeah.

28:39But the sheep seem quite happy grazing here.

28:41A salt marsh like this one where the tide continually floods coastal grassland

28:46is rare in the UK.

28:51How are your boots, Richard? Are you OK coming through?

28:53It's characterised by gullies and drops created by silt deposits and water erosion.

29:00It's really important we've got to get the sheep in.

29:02The sheep won't notice the water coming in.

29:04They won't notice the little pills filling.

29:06So it's really important we go and get them in well in advance.

29:09Looking at it in a sort of logistics point of view,

29:12wouldn't it be easier to graze your sheep on land which isn't covered by water?

29:19Yeah, yeah.

29:20It'd be a lot easier if they were safe and sound in a field, wouldn't it?

29:23But this is what we do.

29:24This is the farm.

29:25This is our fantastic product.

29:27This is a part and parcel of what makes it so great.

29:30And it is great.

29:33Lean like venison because the sheep are exercise so much

29:37and with unusual floral notes because of the unique grazing.

29:40This lamb is a delicacy served in some of the best restaurants in the UK.

29:47Where we're standing now, it's so different.

29:50The grass and all the herbs that grow here, which only grow here.

29:53Grass looks like grass to me, but it's obviously not regular grass.

29:56This grass, what we're on now, thrives in this environment.

30:00And if you notice it stands on it, it's actually firm and dry, isn't it?

30:03Even though it gets covered by saltwater.

30:05Yeah.

30:06The sheep and the lambs will have a nibble on that

30:08and that all adds to the profile of the lather.

30:11The tide's about to come in, and when that happens, there's no messing around.

30:28Will and his dad and brother all work together to bring in the thousand or so sheep

30:33that cover the six-mile area of Salt Marsh.

30:36With the help of Toby the dog, of course.

30:38And what can you get the dog to do to kind of steer them?

30:44Um, you can shout commands.

30:47Come on!

30:48No.

30:49Perfect.

30:50Come on!

30:51I'd whistle if I could.

30:52You've done this before.

30:53Yeah.

30:55To be fair, it's a different sort of flock from the usual Sunday crowd.

31:00I've seen that natural command, natural authority.

31:02And as you can see, they're on their way.

31:04They're on their way, aren't they?

31:05Yeah.

31:07This is time-consuming, labour-intensive work.

31:12Especially for sheep, which are normally such low-maintenance animals.

31:16Power!

31:17Man over nature!

31:18Come on!

31:20But it's obviously worth it to turn the marsh into useful grazing

31:24and the lamb into an unusual delicacy.

31:26They're ignoring me over there.

31:36Will's farm is a brilliant example of finding a way to work with the challenges of the weather and the sea, as many in Lundy have to do.

31:43But after that hair-raising dash to higher ground, we're starving, Sir Will's offered me a dinner of, what else? His salt marsh lamb.

31:53So, as they say here, yakida.

31:54Ooh.

31:55Mmm.

31:56I'm going to go with this one.

31:57Mmm.

31:58I don't know if this is me just thinking it, but I think there's a slight salt-back taste to it.

31:59Yeah, yeah.

32:00Could that come off?

32:01It could come because you've got the grass down there, I guess, the salt water.

32:05Oh, okay.

32:06So, yes.

32:07It almost is, um, I sometimes say it's almost like seasoned ready and you don't need to, you don't need to season it sometimes.

32:10I wonder if, yeah, that tastes really, really good.

32:11I'm going to have to have another pizza to check.

32:12Keep on going.

32:13Keep on going.

32:14Keep on going.

32:15Keep on going.

32:16I've really enjoyed my day in Lundy, and what a Lundy sort of day it's been because it's all been about the weather, been about the rain, of course.

32:33And also that extraordinary landscape of the salt marsh, sea coming in, nourishing it, and in turn, nourishing those sheep that give us that delicious lamb that seems to sort of distill something of the place into something on the plate.

33:02This is Radio 4, and now it's time for the shipping forecast, issued by the Met Office on the heart of the maritime...

33:11Seoul, Lundy, Fastnet, Irish Sea, westerly or southwesterly, three to five, occasionally six at first in East Lundy, and later in West Seoul.

33:24Next, in my whistle-stop tour of the shipping forecast, I'm heading for some Lundy seaside.

33:3050 miles south-east of Will's Farm, at the mouth of the Bristol Channel, is Barry Island, the iconic seaside town of Gavin and Stacey fame.

33:50So I'm off to see what's occurring.

33:55It's one of those places that kind of conjures summer of excitement and holiday and refreshment.

34:00It's the sort of more kind of Margate-y, I guess Mablethorpe end of the spectrum.

34:06But a traditional seaside resort is one of my favourites.

34:14Some of my best childhood memories are of endless summers spent on Hunstanton Beach, running round in trunks, shrimping and eating chalk ices.

34:22It probably wasn't unlike Barry, which by the early 20th century, was a seaside mecca for miners and their families from the valleys.

34:36In fact, Barry was so popular that in 1934, on a hot August bank holiday, there were 440,000 visitors.

34:46That's a long queue for the dodgems.

34:49Like many seaside towns, Barry isn't quite as busy as it used to be.

34:59But I do get the sense that one thing it's bursting with is civic pride.

35:04We would like to take this opportunity to welcome all visitors to Barry Island today, and we hope you appreciate how clean and tidy it was when you arrived.

35:14Could you please help us keep it that way by bringing your litter and rubbish off of the beach and putting it in the bins provided?

35:25Now I'm hoping to do some kayaking with a Barry bigwig called Brian.

35:31Hello.

35:32Hi there.

35:33You are fob.

35:34Yes.

35:35Friends of Barry beaches.

35:36Richard.

35:37Brian.

35:38Hello, Brian.

35:39But we've entered into an agreement where if I help him do a bit of litter picking first, then he'll take me out on the water.

35:46Tool me up.

35:47Bill.

35:48Hello Bill.

35:49So you've got yourself a litter picker.

35:50Thank you very much.

35:51Now what's the technique?

35:52Ah, right.

35:53So it's a highly skilled job, as you can see.

35:55You've done such a good job, I need to find some litter.

35:58Yes.

35:59Oh, hang on.

36:00Ah.

36:01A detector shard.

36:02Right.

36:04Oh, excellent technique.

36:05There you go.

36:06Look at that.

36:07Not on my watch.

36:08Do you think there's something special about Barry, Brian, that makes people want to come

36:13out and join with you and do this and take care of the place and make it nice?

36:18Barry is a special place.

36:19It's such a beautiful beach.

36:21And, you know, people are interested and they care and they want to show and protect where

36:26they live.

36:27And I think you can see that by the numbers that we have.

36:29They come out on our activity days.

36:33With not a stray contact lens left on the beach, it's time for Brian to make good his end of the bargain.

36:46And, you know, we're in the rain.

36:47And we're going to take care of the ocean.

36:48Tuh-duh!

36:49Wow.

36:50I'm ready to go.

36:51Yeah, sadly, I got some bad news.

36:53Oh, what's happened?

36:54The wind is a bit too frisky.

36:57And you can see, it's a bit choppy out there.

36:59because i was looking forward to cleaving the waves with my mighty upper body strength of course

37:04and i was expecting to see that as well richard if you've been listening to the shipping forecast

37:08this morning we might have seen this coming indeed thank you for putting presenter safety first

37:14no problem not everybody does take care look after yourself yeah you too bye

37:18i might not have been able to kayak in that but a lot of people are taking their chances so i've

37:33come spend some time with some lifeguards and see if i too could express yet more of my natural innate

37:38heroism the rnli are best known for saving lives out at sea but they also have trained professional

37:47lifeguards at over 230 of the uk and ireland's beaches including whitmore bay here in barry

37:54which has four full-time lifeguards most are young highly trained and super fit like beth

38:03so i think i might fit in nicely i'm sort of from this area and i just i love it i love being by the

38:10beach um it's something i've been around it my whole life we're all quite good on the board and swimming

38:15we know the sea we're aware of the dangers so the best thing is to stop anyone getting into trouble

38:22yeah it's sort of trying to keep people into the safest areas the red and yellow flags that's our

38:27sort of safe swimming zone so people will just sort of think they're having fun and before they realize

38:32it they're out of their depths or they're sort of they've moved really far down the beach and they

38:36just don't even realize it and it's really important for you guys then to know what's going on

38:40and yeah comps is a big thing yeah if we've ended up having to swim out and we don't have a radio on

38:46us we do have as a last minute rule so hand signals um which we use to communicate with other lifeguards

38:53so it could be me right yeah i could make my television

38:59beth has roped in another lifeguard joe to pretend to be a swimmer in trouble

39:03and i've got to direct her to find him before it's too late

39:07time to save a life

39:24hoping my signals are less disco and more hero it's time to put them to the test

39:29out a bit further out for the right right right

39:43pickup casualty yes joe when you want to name your first kid after me it's richard

39:52i'll keep it in mind

40:08i'm finishing my tour of lundi back in the beautiful village of port isaac on the cornish coast

40:16the stunning scenery warm weather and historic buildings make this place a popular destination

40:22but an additional draw for tourists is that it's the home of one of the last decade's musical

40:30sensations the first of the day it's just cold tea with a fluffy head on

40:43the fisherman's friends are a phenomenon a group of ex-fishermen who sing sea shanties they've played

40:49glasterbury and the albert hall toured the world and recorded 10 albums

40:55they've had two feature films made about them a musical and several books they're folk music

41:01royalty and i've always wanted to meet them it occurs to me that port isaac this part of the world

41:08is like nashville for shanty singing right that's nice and your dolly part well i'm going to say

41:12that but this is absolutely the sort of place where shanties would have come from and there's still

41:16some today yeah definitely yeah yeah when i first went fishing we used to bring the moorings up with

41:21a block and tackle and our father used to keep time just just going like one two and hey up and that

41:26sort of thing in a rhythm to get all three of us leaning back at the same time and that that is a

41:30shanty it's just a chant well it's a bit like marching soldiers then using somebody to keep a

41:34rhythm in step yeah calling response to keep the rhythm going so that the a group of men can act

41:40together almost as a machine i heard in cats but easier yeah it's kind of almost anticipates the

41:47machine age doesn't it you're doing so many keep people together and in rhythm yeah yeah absolutely

41:51and it sort of began to die out come the 1860s when uh there was a lot of mechanization came in with

41:57steams ships and everything and so the era of of shanties sort of finished i guess

42:04around about 1870s so like the last time arsenal won silverware

42:12in fact the only reason many shanties have survived is thanks to a cornish fisherman from

42:16the late 19th century called yankee jack he found himself sailing ships during the american civil war

42:23hence the nickname but traveled the world collecting sea shanties which he passed on to a famous folkson

42:30collector ensuring they were preserved

42:36is it because i was thinking where do you where do you hear men sing now well maybe at the football

42:40perhaps yeah without singing but it's quite unusual for adult men to come together and sing it's not

42:45down in cornwall like i say cornwall and wales as well i mean they've got tremendous the male voice

42:50choir has never died out here or wales you know that's really interesting because i wonder if it

42:54has an origin in a bit of males camaraderie solidarity yeah mining is no walk in the park fishing also has

43:01it yeah yeah i think in this day and age as well there's a lot said about men's mental health and uh

43:08you know unashamedly we're we're an all-male group yeah trying to make it a feel-good thing and an

43:13engagement with people as well and not to take ourselves too seriously right and also that the

43:18songs are um because they're not by and large they're not written songs they're songs that have

43:24evolved right and so they're quite accessible to people they're not terribly complex and so people

43:30find it easy to join in within a couple of verses people already know the course you know it's very

43:34simple to get into yeah people just find themselves singing along and tapping their feet you know if they

43:38weren't simple we couldn't do them to be honest i'm glad they're simple because um if you sort of

43:44accordion hanging about i might just join you oh there you go oh yeah that would be nice yeah we've

43:48got the company promises about a feel-good factor well if you make people laugh that's half the battle

43:58luckily for me it wasn't too hard to twist a few arms and rustle up the rest of the band

44:03for a last hurrah from lundi hello everyone what a nasty surprise for you we are the saucy the fruity

44:12the bawdy the jolly rogering fisherman's friends today and today only featuring the reverend richard

44:18gold big round of applause please we're gonna do a song you'll all know which is a drunken sailor please

44:26join in but not too loud we don't want you to spoil it thank you very much here we go

44:38thank you

44:59oh

45:01She rises, hooray and up she rises, hooray Up she rises, it's thet high in the morning

45:09Put him in the brig al light igni sober Put him in the brig until he's sober

45:20Up she rises

45:22Up she rises

45:24Up she rises

45:26Her eye in the morning

45:38Up she rises

45:40Up she rises

45:42Up she rises

45:44Up she rises

45:46Her eye in

45:50The morning

45:52Up she rises

45:54Up she rises

45:56Her eye in the morning

45:58Up she rises

46:00Her eye in the morning

46:02Up she rises

46:04So Lundy

46:06Really the interaction

46:08of people

46:10and coastline

46:12sea, sky, weather

46:14the variables

46:16and also the unknowns of politics and economics

46:18But what I come away with

46:20is actually something that really affirms that sense

46:22that it's through facing those challenges

46:24the resourcefulness and the creativity

46:26that that produces

46:28Well that's what gives a community

46:30its pulse and its heartbeat

46:32and really makes it live

46:44a group of people

46:48for a lot of resources

46:50and these things have happened

46:52to be very grateful

46:54to be a teacher

46:56that you will know

46:58to make sure that you can

47:00do of your voice

47:01and any feedback

47:02what you want

47:04to make sure that you're

47:05your game

47:06seeing a lot of times

47:08that you can all

47:10and you are

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