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Susan Calman's Grand Day Out - Season 9 Episode 4 -
Scotland's Tourist Trail

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01:35And inspirations in extraordinary Edinburgh
01:40Bạn to rights, you're Sherlock Holmes, mate
01:43End of story
01:44I'll also taste the high life
01:47Now, well, there's a design flaw
01:49Before I take flight
01:51On a grandy out like no other
01:56That is incredible
01:59Right, Helen
02:03This is exciting
02:06Because we're on the tourist trail
02:09East coast of Scotland
02:10I was born on the west coast of Scotland
02:12And we tended to stay over that way
02:14So, new adventures
02:16New places to see
02:18What touristy things do we like doing, Helen?
02:22We like buying a postcard
02:24We like having an ice cream occasionally, don't we, Helen?
02:28Well, I have it, you watch
02:30But what Helen loves almost as much as me
02:33Brace yourself
02:35Is a quick stop at a lovely big castle
02:39The first of many great views on my road trip
02:44The vast 14th century Tantalan Castle
02:47On the East Lothian coast
02:48Is as dramatic as they come
02:50Do you know what I'm doing?
02:52I'm sightseeing
02:53Because on this adventure
02:54Helen and I are hitting the tourist trail
02:58I'm going to go down from here a wee bit
02:59I'm going to go up from here a wee bit
03:01And I'm going to go to the side a little bit
03:03To see some well-known places
03:05And some hidden gems
03:07I'm already brilliant at sightseeing
03:10Look at this
03:10That's a castle
03:12Oh, nailed it
03:14From here I'm off to a celebration of aviation
03:21Before heading to the borders
03:24To traverse an iconic landmark
03:26I'll then investigate Scotland's busiest tourist city
03:30And hit the fairways of Musselburgh
03:32Ending with tales of witches and potions
03:35In North Berwick
03:37Time to get Helen out of first gear, I say
03:44Shall we go for fourth?
03:45Shut up, we're in fourth!
03:47And go fourth on a trip of unexpected wonder
03:51One of the things I really enjoy
03:53About driving round this part of the world
03:55Is completely flat just now
03:58And then suddenly
04:00You'll get the sea appearing
04:02Like a beautiful surprise
04:05They've long used the flat lands of East Lothian
04:09For much more than farming
04:10From its first use in 1915
04:14The historic East Fortune Airfield
04:17Played a vital role during both world wars
04:20But these days
04:22It's Scotland's National Museum of Flight
04:25Housing historic military and civilian aircraft
04:28From all ages of aviation
04:30Including the famous Spitfire
04:33Because I remember my granny talking about the Battle of Britain
04:36Because these were so, so, so important
04:38In the Second World War
04:40As for their modern aircraft
04:43The undisputed jewel in the crown of this collection
04:46Is a plane fit for a queen
04:51Starting in the 1970s
05:01Concorde flew the rich and famous
05:03Between London and New York
05:05For over two decades
05:06The design is out of this world
05:10It is sleek
05:12It is modern
05:13Flying faster than the speed of sound
05:17Meant the flight took less than four hours
05:20So quick that it had land in New York earlier
05:23Than when it took off
05:24A true time machine of its day
05:27It's quite an emotional thing actually
05:29And the fact that it's here
05:31And you can see up close
05:33Is just an incredible, brilliant, wonderful thing
05:36This beauty is the UK's first commercial Concorde
05:41She carried a cargo of haggis
05:43On her inaugural flight
05:45On Burns Night in 1976
05:47So it's only fitting
05:49That Scotland is now her retirement home
05:52It's exclusive
05:54I like that
05:57Working on Concorde
05:59Was considered to be one of the top jobs in aviation
06:02Audrey was one of the cabin crew
06:05For 11 years
06:06Audrey
06:08It's so lovely to meet you
06:10You too
06:11What was it like actually flying on them?
06:13Well, it was like working uphill all the time
06:16With trolleys that were really very, very heavy
06:20So you had to be fit and strong
06:21Fortunately, I have a robust constitution
06:24And a cheery disposition
06:25So it didn't
06:26That's the name of my next album
06:30A robust constitution and a cheery disposition
06:32Low centre of gravity
06:33Yes, absolutely
06:34Means that you can push things uphill
06:35We're very alike
06:36Okay, shall we go on?
06:37Yes, all right then
06:38Do you want to
06:38I'm a bit nervous actually
06:40I don't know why I'm nervous
06:41Nothing that a spot of luxury won't fix, I'm sure
06:45I don't have to say mind your head, Susan
06:47No, I don't need to mind my head, Audrey
06:50Don't you worry about that
06:51I'm just thinking about all of the famous people
06:56Yes, famous bottoms
06:57Famous bottoms
06:58Bottoms on the seats
06:59Normally the royalty would be up front
07:01Superstars following
07:03Captains of industry next
07:05And lesser mortals following
07:07And the jet set passengers
07:10Enjoyed the best of food and drink
07:12Oh, let me see what I'm having on Concorde
07:15From New York to London
07:16New York to London
07:17Caviar, foie gras and a cornet of salami
07:21My cholesterol readings are off the roof with that one
07:26Choix de fromage
07:28Choice of cheeses
07:29But today, Audrey's the VIP
07:34And I'm being put to the test as cabin crew
07:37Now, well, there's a design flaw
07:42You can
07:43But no matter how tight the squeeze
07:49Or turbulent the flight
07:51Cabin crew always have to keep calm
07:54And carry on smiling
07:56Good morning, hope you enjoy your flight
07:58Absolutely anything you need
07:59Just let me know
08:01Good morning
08:03Madam
08:03Madam
08:04I've got a beautiful glass of vintage champagne for you
08:07Sounds good
08:08It is the who in the way
08:09And some beautiful shortbread
08:12You can't put the dolly down first
08:13Don't help me, Audrey
08:18Don't help me, I'll never learn
08:19I think I'm more economy than VIP
08:22And I thought you'd also enjoy just a little bit of shortbread
08:26Thank you
08:26No canapes today then?
08:28The canapes are off
08:30Goodbye, enjoy the champagne, madam
08:32Well, I'm not quite the hostess with the mostess
08:36But whilst Audrey enjoys her bubbles
08:38I've got special access
08:40To go where no Kalman has gone before
08:42Okay
08:44Oh, you can't grab onto anything
08:48Sorry about this
08:50Okay
08:51You'll agree that was easy
08:56But can you imagine sitting here
08:59In Concorde when it goes supersonic
09:02I mean, it must have been an absolute thrill
09:04This is definitely my kind of flying
09:09At a cruising altitude of zero feet off the ground
09:13But it's easy to imagine all sorts of things going wrong
09:18I think I'll stop touching things now
09:27Time for me and my active imagination to move on
09:33Whilst this aviation treasure is still in one piece
09:36Coming up
09:39The tourist trail takes to the water
09:42This is the only way I want to travel from now on
09:44A lovely man called Carl rowing me along a river
09:47Before Edinburgh takes me on a journey of self-discovery
09:51So if I were to guess, I'd say you can be quite snappy
09:54Shut up!
10:03I'm having a grand day out in my cherished camper van Helen Mirren
10:07On Scotland's tourist trail around Edinburgh, East Lothian and the borders
10:11I grew up third gear on the west coast
10:15As you know Helen from our many conversations
10:17And when we were kids, we pretty much stayed west coast
10:22And in fact, most of the places that I'm driving past
10:26I have never been to before
10:29And that's quite exciting
10:31The next treasure awaiting Helen and me
10:34Lies right at Scotland's southern edge
10:36Marking the boundary between England and Scotland
10:40And the majestic River Tweed is graced by a little known
10:44But truly significant piece of 19th century architectural genius
10:49The Union Chain Bridge
10:52When it opened in 1820, its near 500 foot span
10:57Made it the longest wrought iron suspension bridge in the world
11:01Now, my favourite bridge, because I've got one
11:06Is the Clifton Suspension Bridge
11:08But that is before I saw this bridge
11:13It's an absolute marvel
11:15And it recently underwent a £10 million restoration
11:19Hiya!
11:21Hello!
11:21Local historian Jim hasn't stopped smiling since
11:25See, this is the River Tweed
11:27It is
11:27The border between Scotland and England is denoted on the bridge
11:31This is actually a road bridge
11:32And a car's just come on it
11:34There we go
11:35Hello!
11:36Hiya!
11:37Yes
11:37And it moves quite a lot, doesn't it?
11:40It's designed to move
11:41It's a suspension bridge
11:43Absolutely
11:43Suspension bridges, as the name suggests
11:47Have no support in the middle
11:49This one used specially designed wrought iron chains for strength
11:54The brainchild of former naval officer Samuel Brown
11:58The reason he gets involved in this is
12:00He's actually designing chains for ships
12:01Okay
12:02Because ships used to keep breaking their hemp ropes
12:05And this thing off, the style of chains here
12:07Were things that he patented
12:08Very clever
12:09In these things, yeah
12:10When you look at those chains, that is a statement
12:13Yes
12:13That's not frightened of what it is
12:16No, not at all
12:16That is saying, look at me
12:17I'm a smashing suspension bridge
12:20Yes
12:20Across the border
12:21And the stunning structure, as well as its chains
12:26Inspired a young Isambard Kingdom Brunel
12:29Who went on to design that favourite bridge of mine
12:32The Clifton Suspension Bridge in Bristol
12:35Favourite bridge until today, of course
12:38Mark Brunel actually brought Isambard here
12:41When he was 17
12:42So I've looked at the structure and the designs
12:44And how it was all put together
12:45And then from doing that
12:47When you go on to design your own bridges
12:49You're just taking inspiration
12:49You're sinking, aren't you?
12:51This bridge predates Brunel's masterpiece
12:53By more than 40 years
12:55Making it the oldest vehicle suspension bridge in the world
12:59And the best part?
13:01Bridge enthusiasts like me
13:03Get the same thrill crossing it
13:05As the very earliest users
13:07Now you might think, Susan
13:09Do you bore your friends
13:11With your stories about your favourite bridges?
13:13The answer is, of course I do
13:15And I love bridges
13:17And this bridge in particular
13:19Is the best bridge I have ever seen
13:22In the whole world
13:23And I absolutely love it
13:26There you go
13:26This is my favourite bridge
13:29The river Tweed that flows beneath
13:35Is just as spectacular
13:37It's also among the best rivers in the country
13:39For one of Scotland's greatest natural treasures
13:42It's salmon
13:43And such is the abundance of fish
13:46In this majestic river
13:47It has its own head fishery officer
13:50Carl
13:51What is it about the river that salmon
13:54That's so good for salmon?
13:56What is it they like about it?
13:58It's really clean
13:59Cold, clean water
14:00Is what we need to try and preserve salmon
14:02I've been on a lot of rivers, Carl
14:04I've been on a lot of rivers
14:05And a lot of different types of boats
14:07The one that's there
14:09The little kind of blue boat
14:11Yeah
14:11It's quite a shallow boat
14:14Is that a particular one around here?
14:16They were designed specifically for the net fishery
14:19So the net would typically be placed onto the back of the boat
14:23There'd be an arc, horseshoe shape
14:25Taken out into the river
14:27And then the net drawn in
14:29Back and the fish would end up in the bag
14:31And brought into the shore
14:33Wow
14:33The boat is called a coble
14:37And is traditional in this part of the country
14:39They were used by the salmon fishermen
14:42Throughout the 19th century
14:44But today we have another use for it
14:47As a tourist this is exactly the experience I want
14:50What a way to get a salmon's eye view of the bridge
14:55It's very iconic for the area
15:00And very popular with people, tourists
15:03Coming to look at it
15:04Yeah
15:04And the closer we get
15:06The better that view becomes
15:08The wooden structure underneath it
15:12Yeah
15:13Which is what gives it its boinginess
15:15As we go to the drive
15:16It's just as incredible underneath as it is
15:19Above
15:20Yeah, quite a feat of engineering
15:22Yeah, absolutely beautiful
15:24This is the only way I want to travel from now on
15:28A lovely man called Carl
15:29Rowing me along a river
15:30Back along the tourist trail
15:3860 miles northwest
15:40Lies epic Edinburgh
15:41Any journey in Helen is an adventure
15:44Much like the suspension bridge
15:47Helen is a rocking and a rolling at times
15:50With an iconic castle, the Royal Mile
15:54And stunning Georgian architecture
15:57Edinburgh has long been Scotland's top tourist destination
16:01The city is also the birthplace of author Sir Arthur Conan Doyle
16:08Creator of the world's most famous fictional detective, Sherlock Holmes
16:12And this is the place where it's all started
16:16Sherlock Holmes famously used forensic science to solve impossible crimes
16:25Much of Conan Doyle's knowledge of the subject came from studying medicine and surgery here in the city
16:32Surgeon's Hall remains the headquarters of Edinburgh's Royal College of Surgeons to this day
16:38I have walked past Surgeon's Hall hundreds of times when I've been in Edinburgh
16:44And I've never been in it
16:45But you can, you can come in
16:47And they've got this museum of pathology here
16:50Here they've preserved all kinds of instruments used for medical investigations and dissections
16:56Some going as far back as the 18th century
17:00It is hugely important because it documents the advances in science
17:06Which have led me and perhaps you into our obsession with true crime
17:12At the beginnings of forensic science in the 19th century
17:18Doctors' know-how went from healing the sick to helping the police crack crimes
17:24Here, one man became the real-life inspiration for the world's favourite super sleuth
17:29Sherlock Holmes
17:31Apparently, head of museum Thomas has the key evidence
17:36Specifically, Sir Arthur Conan Doyle
17:39What's his association with this place that we're in just now?
17:44So, Conan Doyle studied at the university, which was just across the road at the time
17:48But one of his obviously favourite teachers was a man called Joseph Bell
17:53And Joseph Bell was a practising surgeon
17:56More crucially, Dr Bell was at the forefront of the quickly developing field of forensic science
18:03What was special about him?
18:06Bell was renowned as being very meticulous
18:10But particularly in the ideas of observation
18:13And he would impress upon students that you can tell so much about a patient
18:19Before they've even opened their mouth
18:20You know, just watching the way they walk
18:23Watching their general demeanour
18:25And you can deduce certain things
18:27Conan Doyle made no bones about it
18:29You know, he was very explicit in credit and bell
18:32And Thomas has a letter from after Holmes was a hit
18:36Where Conan Doyle let his old professor know the part he'd played
18:40It starts off, many thanks for your letter
18:42Your kind and genial letter
18:44His kind and genial, of course
18:46Every letter I write from now on will have
18:48Many thanks for your kind and genial letter
18:50But it says here
18:51It is most certainly to you that I owe Sherlock Holmes
18:54I do not think that his analytical work is in the least an exaggeration of some effects
19:00Which I have seen you produce in the outpatient ward
19:02Bang! There you go
19:04There you go
19:04Bang to rights
19:05That's
19:06You're Sherlock Holmes, mate
19:07End of story
19:08Thanks to his inspirational former teacher
19:11Conan Doyle produced 60 best-selling adventures
19:15Featuring the brainy detective
19:17But some of his earliest writings are kept right here
19:21This is Conan Doyle's student notebook
19:24Leap with that next time, Thomas
19:26This is after Conan Doyle's student notebook
19:30So there are some kind of standard student notes
19:34And he did attend Bell's lectures
19:36But he refers to come and see many a pickle in a pot or a jar
19:40And things like that
19:42He's got the start of his doctor's handwriting there as well
19:44Yes, it's kind of tailing off
19:46His letter's much better than that
19:47It's tailing off somewhat
19:48Yeah
19:48Appropriately enough, the understanding of handwriting
19:54Would go on to help Sherlock Holmes solve the most baffling of cases
19:58One of the techniques he studied was that of handwriting graphology
20:04Which apparently could indicate criminal intent
20:09I wonder if it still works
20:12Graphology was a cutting-edge criminology tool back then
20:17And still has its uses in criminal investigations today
20:21Neil McQueen is an expert on handwriting
20:25And can tell me what a Victorian graphologist might have made of my scribbles
20:29Hi Neil
20:32I've come for my examination
20:35I'm quite nervous
20:37Me too
20:37When I was younger, when I was in primary school
20:41My teacher told me I had terrible handwriting
20:44Oh dear
20:45Eligibility is in consideration
20:47So I'm going to write just a paragraph for you
20:51Sure
20:51Would that be okay?
20:54The theory behind graphology is that the way words and letters are formed
20:59Can reveal traits of personality
21:01You look disgusted
21:03Good and bad
21:05There is a sample of my handwriting
21:11Brilliant
21:11What does it tell you?
21:12Well, I can see here, like, the pressure's really good
21:14Which means you've got good vitality
21:17Another thing I noticed is that you've got great, what we call, rhythm in your writing
21:20And people who write with great rhythm, their lives really work out
21:23Really?
21:25Yeah
21:25Hello!
21:26She's back in the room!
21:27One thing you do consistently is the right slant
21:30You're very open with how you feel
21:32I cry a lot
21:34That is true
21:35Is that right?
21:36Yes, uh-huh
21:36But, of course, Neil is also able to spot the flaws
21:40There's a bit of a temper, yeah
21:42Because of the pressure and the angles
21:45So if I were to guess, I'd say you can be quite snappy
21:48Shut up!
21:51Probably best to draw this to a close
21:53So, Sherlock
21:54Whilst I have some issues
21:57You wouldn't immediately say that's a criminal brain in front of you
22:00I'd say it's the writing of a relaxed and humorous person
22:02Who's got a temper
22:05Yeah, that's right then
22:07Elementary, my dear Watson
22:10I mean, Neil
22:11Coming up
22:18The secrets of fish wives
22:20Not, mm, I'm cute
22:22Not cute
22:22But
22:23Cute
22:24And one of Scotland's favourite pastimes
22:29We're almost even Stevens
22:31This is brilliant
22:32I'm having a very grandie out with Helen
22:43On Scotland's tourist trail around Edinburgh, East Lothian and the borders
22:48Our Helen loves a twisty, turny road
22:51Don't you, Helen?
22:53Not really
22:53Shut up, Helen
22:54You love it
22:55And I'm heading to the coast for my next stop
22:59With a trip to Musselburgh
23:00The seaside town gets its name
23:03From the vast muscle beds
23:05Just offshore in the Firth of Forth
23:07At the heart of the town
23:09Is Fisher Row Harbour
23:11Once home to a large fishing fleet
23:13Back in the early 1900s
23:16This harbour would have been a hive of activity
23:19Bustling with boats
23:20Bringing in the catch to be sold
23:23Now I love coming
23:24Places like this
23:25Not so much for how it looks
23:27Although it is gorgeous
23:28But it's about the people who worked here
23:31And few worked harder than the legendary fishwives of Fisher Row
23:36Who, for around two centuries, were the backbone of the town
23:40Margaret knows a few old tales
23:43As her mother was a fishwife herself
23:45I have been accused with my friend Jamie
23:49Of being like fishwives as we gossip
23:52But that's actually not what a fishwife was
23:56My mother used to get really upset when she was classed as a fishwife
24:01Because of the gossip
24:03Because they weren't like that
24:04They were very quiet
24:05Went about their daily task
24:07With a great deal of pride
24:09And that task was selling fish from heavy baskets called creels
24:14Which they hauled for miles around to supply homes and shops
24:18What types of fish, though, are they selling?
24:21Everything they could get their hands on
24:23They joined
24:24There was a jine, it was called
24:25Where maybe five or six women would go together and buy fish
24:29A syndicate of women
24:30Absolutely
24:31Yes
24:31Move over Lord Sugar
24:33Because these were driven and successful businesswomen
24:36At a time when female financial independence was a rare thing
24:40So they've also got to be economically savvy, though, aren't they?
24:43Because they're selling it and they need to get a profit margin
24:45I think the fish are old women, cute, is the word
24:48Not, mm, I'm cute
24:49Not cute, but
24:50Cute
24:51Absolutely
24:53They're a very matriarchal society, they run the whole show
24:55Men didn't have a lot of say
24:57They could
24:58I had a very quiet grandfather
25:00Just sat in all these fingers and looked, you know
25:03Despite the fishwives ruling the roost at home and at work
25:07Life wasn't easy
25:09Those heavy creels made for back-breaking work
25:12You all right now?
25:14And goes round your shoulders
25:16The fish would go in that
25:17Where he sits like that
25:18Having lifted kettlebells in the gym
25:20This is about 10k with nothing in it
25:23And then you add 20k at least of fish in it
25:28Easily
25:28Then all your accoutrements at the top
25:30Yeah
25:31But at the end of it, this weighs about 50k
25:33Or in old money, almost eight stones
25:35I think I'll stick to my kettlebells
25:38I will never let anyone call me a fishwife again, I'll tell you that
25:41They didn't like it
25:43Groups of women talking
25:44Ooh, aren't they awful?
25:47It's not an insult anymore
25:48We're reclaiming it, Margaret
25:49Exactly
25:49We are reclaiming fishwives for women everywhere
25:52Thank you
25:54Thank you, no thank you
25:55And perhaps more surprisingly
26:00The fishwives were pioneers in the game of golf too
26:03Just like business people of today
26:06A relaxing pastime for them was to hit the fairways
26:09Something I also love
26:11At Musselburgh Old Course, Jean-Anne is a fellow golfing superfan
26:17And the granddaughter of the last living fishwife of Fisher Row
26:21Lovely to meet you, Jean-Anne
26:22Golf course itself has a connection specifically with women and fishwives, doesn't it?
26:28Yes, in 1811 they held the first lady competition
26:321811
26:33First women's competition held here
26:35Thanks to the fishwives, this course claims to have held the first lady's golf competition in the world
26:42But it's also historic for other reasons too
26:44It is recorded that Mary Queen of Scots played here, 1567 I believe
26:50Well now
26:51Susan Calman
26:53So it's time to pay tribute to that first ever women's golf contest with one of her own
27:00I'm going first
27:02Yes, you're the captain
27:03Because I'm the captain
27:04And when it comes to a game of golf, size really does matter
27:09Look at that
27:10I brought my little five woods
27:12And look at the stonkers
27:14You're playing with those massive ones
27:16You're playing with the drivers
27:18Right
27:18And you're playing with the bar
27:19I have never had a driver
27:20It's me, Jean-Anne and my rather tiny club
27:24Against Marion
27:25Lovely
27:26And Pam in a one-hole showdown
27:28Whack-a-rooney
27:29Don't embarrass yourself, Calman
27:34Sky to that
27:37Sky to that
27:38Well I'm sure that could happen to fishwives and queens alike
27:41Did you see where that went?
27:47There's nothing about golf I don't love
27:49Except of course
27:50Avoid the bunker
27:51Avoid the bunker
27:52Avoid the bunker
27:54The sand traps
27:56But with the pressure on both teams to triumph
28:00It's a risky shot this
28:02We're digging deep
28:04Nice
28:11Safe
28:12And our game is down to the wire
28:14We're almost even
28:19Stevens
28:20This is brilliant
28:21It's basically
28:22It's a one-putt shootout
28:23So who will take the glory of winning
28:25On this historic golf course?
28:28That is nothing
28:29Yet it is everything
28:31Come on
28:31Don't muck this up, Susan
28:32If Captain Marion misses this
28:39We win the game
28:41And that was an honourable draw
28:48Yes
28:48Congratulations
28:50Well done
28:51Thank you
28:52Thank you
28:52Thank you
28:53Well done
28:54Well done
28:54We may not have won
28:56But three new friends is reward enough for me
28:59It's been a real honour to play with you all
29:01Thank you
29:01It's been an honour
29:02I think Mary Queen of Scots would have approved
29:04Yes, I think so
29:05There's so many different things to do here
29:16That's the thing
29:17Because you're very close to towns and villages
29:20You're very close to Edinburgh
29:21But then you can get away from it all as well
29:23And when you're on a grand day out
29:25I think variety
29:27Is the spice of life
29:29And for my next dose of variety
29:33I'm heading around 40 miles east
29:35The small fishing village of St Abbs
29:38Is centred around a picture-perfect seafront
29:41What better place to stop
29:46For a bit of a breather
29:47Me and Helen have just pulled over
29:50At this beautiful harbour
29:52For a quick cuppa
29:54I can do a bit of people watching
29:56It's Helen and I's favourite thing to do
29:58You've got to be quite careful
29:59When you're people watching though
30:00You just have to kind of go
30:01I know that's sinister
30:03You have to be kind of like
30:04Oh
30:05I can't do it without looking sinister
30:08But what I am going to do
30:10I'm going to finish my cup of tea
30:11And then I fancy
30:13Just taking a look at
30:15What it's like when I get a bit higher
30:17I'll leave you here though, Helen
30:19Is that alright?
30:20Helen?
30:22Strong silent type
30:23St Abbs Head
30:27A rocky headland above the village
30:29Is one of only a handful of places in the UK
30:32Where the land and the sea
30:33Are both protected reserves
30:35It is truly one of the most beautiful places
30:40That I have ever been to
30:44It is a complete sensory overload
30:50And this is a busy time of year
30:56For the National Trust for Scotland
30:58Who look after it
31:00Hello Ciaran
31:01Hi Susan, how are you doing?
31:02Ciaran is one of their rangers
31:04The sun is shining but it's quite chilly
31:06And you are in perfect shorts and t-shirt
31:10No matter the weather
31:11It's that hardy thing, isn't it?
31:13Well, spring has sprung
31:14Spring has sprung
31:15We're here
31:15We've been waiting all winter for this season
31:17We've got thousands and thousands
31:19Tens of thousands of seabirds
31:21That call this place home every spring
31:22And they're just starting to come back
31:24So we're going to concentrate on the shags
31:25Shags are a bit like a cormorant
31:27They're a bit smaller
31:28A bottle green
31:29And in the spring
31:30They've got this lovely shaggy tuft on their head
31:31Which gives them the name
31:32So they're really cool
31:33And we're playing it cool
31:34By watching them from afar
31:36If you look down the scope there
31:38You should hopefully see some shags
31:40There's one just absolutely posing
31:44Oh yeah
31:45They're big poses
31:46The one on the left
31:48Has just brought some more sticks back from the nest
31:50Oh, nice
31:51They're like the magpies of the sea
31:52Incorporate anything they find in
31:53Especially if it looks quite fancy
31:55But the fancier the nest
31:56And the better adorned it is
31:58The better partner you're going to attract
31:59Nice to find a bird
32:01That likes a bit of bling
32:03Is there anything else you can show me around here?
32:05Yeah
32:06Yeah, we've got a seabird city just at the top
32:08Seabird city?
32:09Seabird city
32:09Seabird city
32:12Where the grass is green
32:13And the birds are pretty
32:14Wow
32:16Just about everywhere
32:19That is incredible
32:22So we've got tens of thousands of guillemots
32:24Filling the cliffs
32:25Packed shoulder to shoulder
32:26On the ledges
32:27I have got quite a lot of fondness for these birds
32:29I have to say
32:30I really do
32:31They're adorable
32:31One of Ciaran's jobs
32:33Is to count the guillemots
32:34All the cliffs here
32:36Are split into 25 sections
32:37And we just count them
32:38Very slowly and systematically
32:39Which by the looks of it
32:42Is one of the toughest jobs in Britain
32:44It's astonishing when you look at the cliff face though
32:48And you see the little birds
32:49Sitting
32:51Just in every crevice
32:54It's been a joy to see them
32:56But I think it's time to move on
32:58I imagine the counting
32:59Is going to take a while
33:01Coming up
33:05I discover a seaside town's dark past
33:08So the likelihood is
33:09I'm related to someone
33:10Who accused someone of being a witch
33:12Yeah
33:12And I get down with some plant power
33:15What I'm most enjoying
33:17Is you stirring a cauldron
33:19Does it look like that a bit
33:20It does look a little bit like that
33:22I'm having a most grandie out
33:31On Scotland's tourist trail
33:32There it is there
33:34There's the sea there
33:35Sitting on the southern shores
33:38Of the Firth of Forth
33:39Across from the county of Fife
33:41Is a seaside town
33:42Steaked in history
33:44Haven't been to North Berwick in a while
33:46Very much looking forward to it
33:48With two sandy bays
33:51And a gorgeous harbour
33:52North Berwick has been a fashionable
33:54Holiday resort
33:55Since the 19th century
33:56And it's still a tourist hotspot today
33:59Well done, Helen
34:02Well done
34:05But the town's anchor green
34:08Is home to the remains of an old church
34:10Which in 1590
34:12Played a key role
34:13At the beginning of the nation's witch trials
34:15A group of predominantly women
34:19Were accused of dancing with the devil
34:21On this very spot
34:22And were tortured and tried
34:25At the behest of James VI of Scotland
34:27Later also James I of England
34:30Lawyer Clare and writer Zoe
34:33Know the story
34:34We are in a place that is very different
34:38To how it would have been
34:4016th century
34:42Yeah
34:43But it's a very important place isn't it
34:45So in 1590
34:47This was the spot
34:49Where Agnes Sampson confessed
34:51To meeting with the devil
34:52Along with 200 other witches
34:54Dancing around the kirk
34:56Singing songs
34:57When people think about witch trials
35:00Because I think everyone knows
35:01There were witch trials
35:03This place is very important
35:04Because from here
35:07It kind of exploded
35:09Didn't it?
35:10Yeah
35:10All because King James
35:13A superstitious and religious man
35:15Believed that North Sea Storms
35:17Delayed his homecoming
35:18With his new wife Anne of Denmark
35:20And that Satan and the witches
35:22Were to blame
35:23Instead of looking at rational reasons
35:26Like the boats maybe weren't up to
35:27Or it was just really bad weather
35:28It was actually witches
35:30Who'd sailed from here
35:31To stop the queen to be
35:33From getting together with the king
35:35And then having any children together
35:37It wasn't at all far-fetched at the time
35:41The belief was the devil was real
35:43The devil worked among society
35:45By getting witches to do his bidding
35:47And that women were the easy pick
35:50And therefore mostly women were witches
35:51So it
35:52It was almost factual
35:53It was absolutely factual
35:54Good and evil
35:55At the North Berwick witch trials
35:58It's said that around 200 people
36:00Were forced into confessing
36:02Really quite horribly physically tortured
36:04They throde them
36:05Which is where they put ropes around their head
36:06And they pulled at the ropes
36:07They put their fingers in pillywinks
36:09Where they crushed their fingers
36:10They used what were they called
36:12Bootykins
36:12Where they crushed their feet
36:14And thanks to the tabloid press of the day
36:17Words spread countrywide
36:19There's the women involved in
36:21Conspiring
36:23Conspiring
36:23Once you dig deeper
36:25You actually realise
36:26Hang on these were real people
36:27The newspapers helped fuel
36:29A nationwide slew
36:30Of witchcraft accusations
36:32Leading to the torture
36:33And murder of the innocent
36:35Most often
36:36Women
36:37Generally who was accusing
36:38And why were they accusing
36:40It could be anybody in the community
36:42It could be that you were in the wrong place
36:43At the wrong time
36:44It could be that you were an irritant
36:46It could be that you were old
36:48It could be anything
36:49The terrifying thing is
36:50There's no reason
36:51I mean 4,000 people were accused
36:53That's a very
36:54In Scotland
36:55In Scotland
36:55When there was only 900,000
36:57For every one woman
36:58There were probably 12 accusers
37:00More people were accusing
37:02Than were accused
37:03You're much more likely
37:04So the likelihood is
37:04I'm related to someone
37:06Who accused someone
37:06Of being a witch
37:07Yeah
37:07Since 2020
37:09Claire and Zoe have campaigned
37:11To clear all Scots
37:13Accused of witchcraft
37:14Women were being tortured
37:17To admit to something
37:19That didn't happen
37:20Every single one of those women
37:23There were individuals
37:24There were people
37:25With families
37:26With stories to tell
37:28This is where things happen
37:30But look out there
37:31To how beautiful it is now
37:33But I think that's quite perfect
37:35That in, you know, 2025
37:37After hearing that story
37:39I can go and just think about
37:43Everything that you've told me
37:44For such a pretty spot
37:49It's a sobering tale
37:51I'm just taking a
37:54A little bit of a moment
37:56Just to think about a few things
38:00Because the Kirk
38:02Is just there
38:03Beside a cafe
38:04And an ice cream van
38:06And a beach
38:07And people walking their dogs
38:09Life goes on
38:10And you might think
38:11Witches are a bit serious
38:12For a tourist trail
38:15But that's okay
38:17It's okay
38:18To find out about something
38:20That makes you think a bit
38:21And what I've just heard
38:23Is going to make me think
38:24For quite some time
38:27I quite like a wall, you know
38:30You can have a little bit of a cry
38:33And then move on
38:38Of course, it's thought
38:46That many accused of witchcraft
38:48Simply held an interest
38:49In harnessing the hidden power of plants
38:52For example, using dock leaves
38:54To soothe nettle stings
38:56Or see buckthorn
38:58A local shrub
38:59Said to aid sleep
39:00I'm all up for a bit
39:02Of modern day potion making
39:03And Greg is a botanist
39:05Who's got all the knowledge
39:06On folk remedies from the area
39:08It's a gorgeous day
39:12To talk about superstitions
39:15Plants and witchcraft
39:17Yeah
39:17Tell me about anything
39:18That could have been around here
39:20That they would have used
39:20All the gorse that we could see
39:22Up on the hill behind us
39:23If you pick that
39:25Over in Fife
39:26It was traditional
39:27That you could not
39:29Give it to anyone else
39:30Because it would cause a quarrel
39:31Really?
39:32Yeah, exactly
39:32So just be careful
39:33Who you give gorse to
39:34Was there any way
39:35They could use plants
39:36To ward off the devil?
39:38The classic one is
39:39Rowan
39:40Often make them into hoops
39:41And you could drive
39:42Your livestock past them
39:43And it would help
39:44To cleanse them
39:45And keep away
39:45The ill effects of the devil
39:47Or witchcraft
39:48I've got one in my front garden
39:49I think
39:49And have you got a problem
39:50With sitting
39:51Well, I live in the house
39:52Which is a bit of a concern
39:53I'll maybe take a few cuttings inside
39:56But for now
39:57Greg has me whipping up
39:59An old recipe
39:59For a skin healing balm
40:01And if that makes us witches
40:03I'm proud of that
40:04What's this here?
40:06It's elder
40:06So, lovely wee tree
40:08So there's some
40:09Really interesting compounds
40:10In there
40:11That will be useful
40:12For just a bit antibacterial
40:14Now I'm chopping this
40:15Let me ask you
40:16Is it a rough chop
40:17Or a fine chop
40:18You're wanting?
40:19I think a fine chop's good
40:20Because we're gonna
40:20Sorry
40:21I knew he was gonna say that
40:23I knew he was gonna say that
40:23After the toil
40:25And trouble of chopping
40:26What I've noticed
40:27Is that Greg hasn't said
40:28That's okay
40:28That says to me
40:29It's not fine enough
40:30No, that looks good
40:31I think we're good to go
40:32If you like
40:32It's ready for our
40:34Very own cauldron
40:35And after a little while
40:37Infusing
40:38Lovely bag of cheese
40:39You've got there too
40:40It's not parmesan
40:42But beeswax
40:43That sets the ointment
40:44Five?
40:45Yep, perfect
40:46Five
40:46Traditional
40:48Earlier versions of this
40:49Might have used things
40:50Like animal fat
40:51Right
40:51So you'd have had
40:52An ointment
40:53That would have
40:54Made you smell
40:55Like beef crisps
40:55Or something as well
40:56Finally, some yarrow oil
40:59Which is said
41:00To promote healing
41:01You shake on trees
41:02Your life
41:03What I'm most enjoying
41:04Is you stirring
41:05A cauldron
41:06Right
41:07Does it look like that a bit?
41:08It does look a little bit like that
41:10It does look a little bit like that
41:12I know
41:13There we go
41:13Look at that
41:13But there's no magic here
41:15Just great knowledge
41:16And the skill to use it
41:17So I very, very fortunately
41:22Greg
41:22Have a small cut on my hand
41:24Caused by my cat
41:25And I'm going to
41:27Just put it on it
41:28You try
41:28Cool
41:28That is absolutely super
41:30And it's something that can be made
41:33I mean quite easily in a way
41:35Yeah, exactly
41:36But the key thing of course is
41:38Make sure you know your clients
41:40Absolutely
41:41Well, my time with Greg
41:44Has been a magical way to end
41:47What's been a truly incredible
41:49Grand day out
41:50I have loved every single minute
41:54Of my adventure
41:56Because it's been completely unexpected
41:59I've been to places I didn't know existed
42:02And I've learned such a lot
42:05And more than anything
42:06Everyone has been so friendly
42:09I came here as a tourist
42:12And I'm leaving
42:13Feeling like a local
42:14Next time
42:18I'm on a journey of discovery
42:20In glorious Cornwall
42:21Isn't this
42:23Absolutely
42:24Beautiful
42:25Trying new things
42:26I don't really want to stop
42:28Making new friends
42:29Yeah
42:29And hunting for signs
42:31Of one of its most famous suns
42:33This is of course
42:34Poldark country
42:35Under the ground
42:36Sheesh
42:37And on the water
42:38Woodman waves
42:40Because corn will never ceases to amaze
42:43What a brilliant thing
42:45Thank you
42:45Thank you
42:46I think it's more normal
42:48Thank you
42:49Thank you
42:49Thank you
42:50Thank you
42:51Thank you
42:51Thanks
42:52Thank you
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