Build for Off Road Season 2 Episode 4

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00:00Today on Build for Off-Road, we start by driving this perfectly good two-door Jeep JK into the shop,

00:09cutting it into three or more pieces to build the ultimate combination of Jeep and Rock Bouncer.

00:19Today in the shop, I have this Jeep right here. This is a two-door Jeep JK. Now, I'm going to say

00:25something that might be controversial, but hear me out. It's going to make sense in the end. This

00:30Jeep right here is the best deal if you're looking for a base vehicle to turn into a hardcore off-road

00:37rig, and here's why. Two-door Jeep JKs right now, first generation, 07 to 11, you can pick them up

00:43for around $5,000. That's an acceptable price for something that you're going to chop up. Newer ones

00:49like this, second generation, 12 to 18, they're going to cost you somewhere around like that $10,000

00:54mark. The nice thing is, is all the parts that are on this Jeep, they're still sought after. So even

00:59though you buy this Jeep, and maybe you drive it for a year and enjoy that life of the top off, doors

01:04off, you know, being cool owning a Jeep, you can then sell all those parts, recoup some of your money.

01:10When the JK first came out, I was not for it, and that's because it was so expensive to turn into a

01:15hardcore off-road rig. The two-door JK is the perfect base vehicle, like I said, because it's so cheap.

01:20That's what we're building today. Now, this isn't my Jeep. This belongs to my buddy Ricky. I've been trying

01:26to get him to grow up and give up the side-by-side life for years and step into a real buggy. So that's

01:30what we're going to build them. We're going to build this Jeep into the perfect combination of hardcore Jeep

01:36and hardcore rock bouncer. So creature comforts inside, lots of horsepower underneath the hood, giant axles,

01:43and big old 42-inch tires. That's where we're going to end up. This is where we're starting. Step one, body

01:49comes off, and then we cut the frame in half. Twice. Oh, it's going to be a good day in the shop

01:55because we're cutting things up in the Jeep world.

01:58Now, as I said before, if you want to basically maximize your profit potential, starting with a

02:19good Jeep, you're going to want to sell some of the parts. And if you're going to sell parts,

02:24the last thing you want to do is have a bunch of broken bolts on those parts because that's just

02:28going to make the new owner somewhat upset. So when it comes to things like exhaust studs that

02:33we're working on right now for this little motor, you're going to want to get a good penetrating

02:38solvent like CRC Knocker Loose. What this will do is it basically sprays onto any rusted fasteners,

02:45and then it soaks into the threads. And because it's a penetrating solvent, it's going to dissolve the

02:50rust that's basically holding that nut on there, and then it will help lubricate it when it's time

02:55to take it off. Appears to have knocked it loose.

03:05One of the reasons why the JK is honestly such a good platform to start from is the frame.

03:11Back front axle. These frames are very good frames from the factory because they are hydroformed,

03:19fully boxed, with four-link front and rear from the factory. That's what kind of made the JK

03:23really a game changer when it first came out. We are going to use parts of this frame because the

03:29whole point of this build is to make the ultimate throwdown combination rock bouncer slash Jeep JK.

03:34So we're basically going to be cutting this frame somewhere in this area right here. But since we're

03:39going to do that, we need to go ahead and remove these motor mounts because we're not reusing the

03:43motor. We're going to remove these coil mounts here. I don't know if I'm going to get all the way up to

03:47the actual coil mount. I think I'm just going to get the shock mount off. But I basically need

03:51an empty section of frame right here because all that goes away.

03:56Now to convert this Jeep over to, as I said before, this ultimate off-roader that we're building,

04:10we basically are replacing the front half of the frame section. So this is a complete kit. It comes

04:16with two new frame rails, a new front bumper with an integrated hoop at the front as well as a winch

04:21plate, and then a new crossover bar at the top. That's what this section is right here. It's going to

04:25integrate into two new coilover towers. Now this is obviously not a bolt-on suspension system. This

04:32is a lot of custom fab, but it did come with some templates that I marked on the frame to show me

04:37where to cut. So the first step here is going to be to cut this entire front frame section off.

04:42And then we're actually going to use the body mounts that are built into these frame rails

04:45to basically key into these old body mounts. So we'll put the body back on the frame to line

04:50everything up and then weld it in place. We'll cut this first.

05:04Boom. Bye-bye frame.

05:06Yeah, but you got to go that way.

05:29Well, let's throw a bolt in her.

05:30So we've made good headway on our Jeep JK that we're basically turning into a Jeep slash rock

05:37bouncer type of shenanigans. The frame has now been completely stripped and prepped for all the

05:41new frame parts. The front frame section is on. And essentially what we've done here is we've used

05:46the Jeep body as a jig. So even though we cut the frame off right here, according to the templates

05:52to ensure that the front frame is still square, what we're doing is we're basically bolting it onto

05:57the factory body mounts. We bolted the Jeep body back onto the rest of the body mounts on the frame.

06:02And then we basically just shoved everything on. We'll go ahead and do some cross measurements to

06:05make sure that it's square. But at that point, then we'll be ready to weld it in.

06:19For today's welding tip, we're going to talk about a couple of things. We're going to talk about some

06:23tips for welding stainless pipe. And then I'm also going to give you some updates on the ESAB Rebel

06:29and why you would add a water-cooled torch to that machine. Now, I've told you before,

06:34and we've shown you how much I love the ESAB Rebel being a multi-process machine. You can make,

06:39you can TIG, and you can stick with it. It takes care of all the jobs inside your shop. But now

06:43you can add the new ESAB Cool Mini 2 to the bottom of your Rebel. What that does is allows you to add

06:50a water-cooled TIG torch to the entire package. Now, the way a water-cooled TIG torch works is you

06:57basically have three lines coming up the torch. You have the line that carries the gas, like always.

07:02And then you have two additional lines, one that will take the coolant to the torch and one that

07:07returns it back to the small radiator and fan that sits underneath it. And that is what cools the

07:12torch head down. What a water-cooled torch does is it allows the torch body to get smaller and smaller

07:19and still operate at high amperage. This particular torch is rated for up to 250 amps,

07:24even though it is incredibly small. So if you're doing a lot of TIG welding and you need to get in

07:28the super tight places and you want the torch as small as possible, it's a great time to upgrade to

07:32that water-cooled torch. So now let's talk about welding stainless. Now what I have here is a small

07:38set of stainless bellows that we're going to weld onto this pipe right here. And I think we'll just go

07:43through the process of how to set it up, how to weld it. So step one, whenever you're welding stainless,

07:48is going to be clean it up. For that, we use acetone. Most important part when TIG welding stainless

07:57is making sure that you keep the arc length as short as you can. So what I've done is I put this

08:02giant cup on here to allow me to stick the tungsten out really, really far. That also floods the area

08:09with the shielding gas and just ensures that the weld stays covered. When you stop welding, don't move

08:16anything. Make sure that you leave the torch alone. Keep that shielding gas flowing. That will

08:22ensure that you end up with that rainbow color that you want to get with stainless. Another thing

08:27that can help with this is back purging inside of the stainless. And for that, you actually need

08:33another tool. This tool is pretty specific to automotive stainless exhaust. This is a heat sink

08:40end back purge valve that screws into the O2 sensor in your exhaust. So if I had an O2 sensor bung right

08:47here, this would simply screw into it. Then I use this quick connect, connect it. And then the other

08:53end goes into my double feed regulator that's on the back of the TIG welder. And what that will do is it

08:59will flow argon into the inside of this pipe. We want to plug either end with either tape or you can

09:05actually buy rubber plugs that plug it with a small little hole. And you basically fill the inside of

09:10this pipe with argon. That way, while you're welding it, the chromium doesn't boil up on the inside as

09:16well because it's also protected with that shielding gas. This is just a handy tool to have. Practice,

09:21practice, practice. Get a good quality welder. If you want that small torch, make sure you get a water

09:25cooler for it. Get the proper PPE, good helmet, good gloves, comfortable place to work. And then just spend

09:31time behind the hood. I like doing it every day. There's no way that we can take a Jeep and talk

09:51about turning it into half Jeep, half hardcore off-road rock bouncer and leave the V6 engine

09:56underneath the hood. So this is going underneath the hood of this truck. This is a pretty much brand

10:02new. It's 2024 Ram 6.4 liter Hemi engine with an 8 HP 75 behind it. This, in my opinion, when it comes

10:13to a Jeep JK, is probably one of the cleanest swaps that you can do. And we'll talk about why a little

10:18bit later. But whenever you are planning a project and you're going to use a used engine, make sure you

10:24get it from a reputable salvage yard. We were able to actually see video of this engine running in

10:30the truck before they pulled it. So we knew that it was good. And they did tell us that the water

10:36pump was bent. So we ended up replacing a brand new water pump on there. One thing that I think

10:41you should do before you swap in one of these is swap out the exhaust manifolds. This new manifold

10:46design has like a little bit of a kick to it. So we're going to try and take advantage of that to make

10:50it easier to get the exhaust out of the truck. But these manifolds showed up, obviously, bare cast.

10:56And yes, we could bolt them on and everything would be fine. But this is the time when we should

11:01paint these so they don't end up looking all rusty underneath the hood of our super cool Jeep.

11:07I'm going to paint these manifolds with this VHT flame proof paint. Now, this is specifically designed

11:12for exhaust components like manifolds, headers, turbo downpipes, or pretty much anything that sees

11:18a lot of heat. It's designed to handle that high temperature that exhaust sees. Once it's coated,

11:23though, you do have to follow the curing procedure with VHT. And there's instructions on the back.

11:28You want to heat the item up for about 10 minutes and then let it cool down, heat it up for 20 minutes,

11:33let it cool down. That helps basically bake the paint onto the exhaust item. This will basically prevent

11:40these exhaust manifolds from rusting and it'll just keep it looking good underneath the hood. If you

11:44wanted to dress it up even further underneath the hood, Duplicolor has a full range of engine

11:49enamel. Now, this paint is specifically designed to paint under the hood engine components and engine

11:55blocks so it can handle the heat as well as the chemicals that are underneath the hood. They have

11:59them in 34 different colors. I had them send me some of this Hemi Orange because I may just do a

12:04couple touch-ups on the block here and there because, you know, Hemi, Hemi Orange, it's got to happen.

12:08And basically, so if you wanted to make the truck look even fancier, you can go ahead and coat the

12:12block like that. To start with right now, I'm going to go ahead and just spray these with the flat black

12:16and then bolt them on the motor. First step is to clean any of oils or impurities off the cast.

12:23I'm using this Duplicolor foaming prep spray. I'm just going to spray it on there and then wipe it off.

12:32So we're going to apply two light coats and one medium coat. You want to apply all those coats

12:38within one hour and give yourself about 10 minutes between each coat.

12:58That's probably pretty darn close. Now, the engine is in between the frame rails. Obviously,

13:04it's just mocked up into place and that is because fitting these Hemi engines into the JK engine

13:09compartment is a little bit tight. Even more so with the truck engine because the intake is so

13:14tall. Misunderstanding a lot of times when it comes to engines is that they have to be in the center of

13:20the frame and that's actually not true, especially an off-road vehicle. Even from the factory, some of

13:25these engines are offset to the passenger side or driver's side depending on where the front drive shaft

13:30goes. In this particular vehicle, the front drive shaft is on the driver's side. So we're going to

13:34be offsetting this engine probably one to one and a half inches towards the passenger side of the

13:40vehicle to give me more room. It's also going to give me more room for the front pumpkin on the axle.

13:44But before we can even figure out if this engine's in the right spot, we got to drop the body back down.

13:50Body down. Body's going down. Down, down, down. For an initial installation, I'm pretty happy with where

13:59we're at. The one thing that you have to watch out for with these Hemis is the fact that the cylinder

14:04heads are so large, they don't necessarily fit into this sort of like recess in the firewall. So

14:09the head is really close on that passenger side at the bottom, but I'm probably going to just hammer

14:16the firewall in a little bit there. I think that'll solve that problem. I can then slide this engine

14:20back, I think maybe about an inch. That's what I'm after. My concern is how close the throttle body is

14:24to the radiator because I still need to fit a fan down inside of there. But I think another solution

14:29for that is going to be to basically raise this engine up a little bit. That will basically pull

14:34the throttle body up and back at the same time. I've already closed the hood and checked it. There is

14:39still plenty of room there. So I think if we basically come up and back, I think that'll be

14:44the finished spot for this engine. You do need to watch out for a couple other things. In this particular

14:48vehicle, we are going to be running an actual steering gear. So there will be a steering gear over here

14:53mounted to the frame rail. There's provisions for it on our frame rail kit right here. So it's going

14:57to bolt on and there is a shaft that has to run down from the obviously steering wheel down to

15:02there. So we've got to make sure that clears by the cylinder head as well. But the Jeep engine bay

15:07is fairly large. So putting these V8s in here is not that hard. You just kind of got to fine tune

15:11them around back and forth and then we can start making some mounts. Right now, body comes back off.

15:16Up, up, up. Jeep body going up.

15:23Let's try that.

15:38Quite often when I'm building mounts, I'll just go ahead and cut the holes on the plasma table,

15:43but that's when it's for a very common size fastener and I can run a reamer through it that

15:47I have. These mounts, because I'm reusing the engine side mounts from the Hemi, it uses a weird

15:53metric size bolt. So what I've done is I've matched that up with one of my drill bits and I'm just

15:57going to drill the hole through it, make life a lot easier. I'm using my new Woodward Fab bench top

16:03drill press. I kind of like these bench top drill presses because they don't take up a whole bunch of

16:07space in the shop. You can simply move them out of the way when you're not using it. This one has a 450 watt

16:12motor. It's variable speed, which is nice. It has a half inch chuck, so it fits pretty much all the

16:18large size drill bits. And the nice thing is, is it has a readout to tell you the speed that the drill

16:23is actually turning at, so you can set it for the size that you're drilling. And then it also has this

16:27little laser guide, so you know exactly where it's going to punch the hole.

16:30Tip for you, you know that the drill is running at the correct speed and the correct pressure when

16:44the chips that come off make these small little spikes. When you get that, perfect speed, perfect pressure.

16:50Huzzah. All right, now I got to build the other side.

17:08Over my time of building custom vehicles, I've swapped many engines into many vehicles that they

17:14weren't in there before. I think I've put LSs and basically everything. I've put Toyota engines and

17:19things. I've put Jeep engines in Toyotas. I've done all those things. I've even put an LS engine in a

17:25BMW for my kid, even made it a manual transmission. Don't be a bad dad. Teach your kid how to drive a

17:30stick. But the hardest part about getting an engine to work inside a modern vehicle is the communication

17:36between the engine and the rest of the car. And that is because modern vehicles use a lot of

17:43CAN bus communication. So it's not like the old days where you just turn the key and 12 volts goes down

17:48to the starter and it starts the motor. It doesn't work that way anymore. Everything, it goes through

17:53the powertrain control module or ECU or whatever you want to call it, basically the computer. So when it

17:59comes to dealing with one of these modern Jeeps and you want to get a Hemi underneath the hood, which

18:03in my opinion is the best swap, and it's because of that communication, the best place to call is

18:09Hotwire Auto. Hotwire Auto will build you a completely new wiring harness with all new OEM-style

18:17connectors. They will reflash the computer to work with your vehicle. They can even take care of the

18:21TCU in the transmission. And the key to all of this is the fact that they will build this harness,

18:27flash the computer, and set it all up so everything inside that Jeep works like it did from the factory.

18:34They can build you a harness like this in a hot rod setup. I have that in a couple other of my vehicles.

18:39That basically means you just hook it up to like a 12 volt power and a ground and you just switch the key

18:44and you can run the vehicle. But when you want everything to work inside the Jeep, gauges, AC

18:50requests, all that stuff, you need to have a harness and more importantly a company that understands how

18:56to make that communication work. And Hotwire can do that for you. Plus on top of that they offer great

19:01phone support either before, during, or after the install. So if you're planning a project like this,

19:07honestly the first call you need to make is you call Hotwire, you tell them,

19:10hey, I got a Jeep, I'm going to put a Hemi in it. They will tell you what motor to buy,

19:14what transmission to get, what computer to choose from. They'll steer you right,

19:18right from the very beginning. And the best part is, in this application, 100% plug and play.

19:23When you're trying to combine basically a Jeep and a rock bouncer, you'd think that the right

19:39decision would be to go with full hydraulic steering. But if it's going to be a dual purpose

19:45vehicle like this, it is nice to have a mechanical connection between the steering wheel and the

19:50axle. So that means that you're going to be wanting to use some type of steering gear.

19:54The good news is, is you can get upgraded steering gears like this bad boy right here,

19:58often referred to as a big bore box because it's much larger in size than a traditional JK steering

20:04box and a lot stronger. So this way we're going to get that mechanical connection between the steering

20:09wheel and the axle, thanks to the steering shaft through the sector shaft down to the pitman arm and

20:13then a drag link down to the front axle. But at the same time, we're going to get all the additional

20:17power of a full hydraulic steering system because the box has more power and we're going to be adding

20:22a cylinder assist cylinder down to the axle. The frame already has provisions to bolt us into place.

20:27Then there's the last thing we want to check before we make sure that the motor mounts

20:31are where they're going to be.

20:55So we accomplished a lot today by driving this two-door Jeep JK into the shop, completely disassembling it,

20:59cutting it into multiple pieces, and now it's completely unusable in any way, which is okay,

21:04because that is always the first step in building the perfect off-road vehicle, basically making it

21:10completely unusable for a certain period of time while you throw parts at it and a whole bunch of

21:13money. But the drivetrain's in. 6.4 Hemi, 8-speed automatic, our new frame section, our suspension's

21:19ready to go in. After this, we're ready to sling some serious axles underneath it and get this bad boy

21:24sitting on some 42-inch tall tires. But that is what we'll do next time. Having the 6, 4 under the hood,

21:30all ready to be plugged in with all the wiring, that is a milestone in itself.

21:35If I had a running Jeep, I could go vroom, vroom, but I don't. Vroom.

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