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Eco-Optimism | Marie Claire
Marie Claire
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4 days ago
Eco-Optimism discussion
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Tech
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00:00
I do have three panelists that are optimistic about the future of fashion
00:11
and sustainability. Hassan, you were talking about sustainability and fashion
00:18
long before it became cool. You started a company, you started a fashion line, and
00:23
then you started Maison du Monde. What prompted you? What was the the aha moment,
00:32
the light that went off, that made you think, okay, this is a very important
00:37
conversation that we need to have? And that we're, what were the, what were the
00:42
conversations around that sustainability? At the time, it was very segmented. You had
00:46
Bergdorf Goodman with one brand, Fred Siegel with another, Barneys with another, and it
00:51
wasn't really a shared floor space for these brands. So the real aha moment
00:57
came when we realized that there's about 10 brands at the time that were all sort
01:04
of in this sustainable fashion movement, who were all being pretty well
01:09
recognized from a retail and media perspective. But if we could put them
01:13
all under one umbrella, we could actually move this entire conversation forward.
01:17
And the goal has always been to prove that sustainable fashion is actually
01:21
luxury. So Natasha, that's very interesting. You have a solution called Eon. And I want
01:28
you to tell everyone in the room about this, who may not know exactly what the
01:33
solution is and what digital ID, because it's the technology that you use for this, for
01:38
finding out the provenance of specific product. And since we're talking about
01:43
optimism, what, what was that? I mean, where does optimism lie in reporting on
01:50
provenance of a specific product or collections by way of introduction? I'm
01:54
Natasha and I founded a company called Eon and we power product digitization for
01:59
brands and retailers. So in some ways, our goal is to almost make sustainable
02:04
fashion, not a reality, right? Every single product becomes sustainable rather than it
02:11
being this segment of the market. And so how we do that is we move to give every single
02:17
physical product a digital twin. And we connect that physical product with an identity. And
02:24
so what that does is that bridges the gap between the digital and physical. And if you think about
02:29
the today, there are hundreds of billions of products produced every single year, where do those
02:35
products go? Where are they made? What are the materials? How are they managed? Who purchased it?
02:40
How do you manage that item through resale? How do you manage that item through recycle? That requires
02:46
all those end to end business processes require data and intelligence. And we don't even have so much as a
02:53
barcode for the circular economy. Yet we say we're going to scale resale. I think the idea of
02:59
understanding supply chain has really become at the forefront. When my mother can tell me about supply
03:05
chain and she's 77 years old, it really has become part of the conversation. And especially when you can
03:11
figure out the provenance of that. Abrima, when we talk about sustainability, there are multi layers to
03:18
that. We're not just talking about the environment. We're talking about economic and social impact.
03:23
How has Studio 189 really layered in this conversation? And how have you pushed the
03:31
conversation forward for these specific areas of sustainability?
03:35
I think it's connected to how we began. So I was actually at Caring. I was at Bottega Veneta for nine
03:44
years. And I was very interested in the connection of what luxury stands for. But there's
03:53
so many incredible artisans all over the world that I felt like we're not in the conversation. So
03:58
I'm West African. I'm also Guinean and Ivorian. And so I had this opportunity through the Caring
04:04
Foundation of Women's Indigenous Rights to go to Uganda with an organization that was making washable
04:09
sanitary napkins for girls at slip school when they have their period. And what I found so incredible
04:14
about that was that it was a really kind of sustainable solution, right? So it was like made locally,
04:20
created locally, it created jobs, you know, and also girls got to make their decision. You know,
04:25
some women make a choice and some don't. But the choice is theirs. You know, there's something very
04:31
special about making your own decision and not being told what decision to make. So every time
04:35
they would sell something, they would buy farmland, feed their kids to school, you know, and save their
04:40
money. And it was really beautiful to see what real sustainability looks like. But what it did for me
04:44
is it took me from this idea of thinking I have great ideas and going kind of top down,
04:48
but really realizing that it has to go bottom up. And this is happening all over the world in
04:53
communities everywhere, also in our backyard here, and we have to lift up other voices. I moved to
04:59
Uganda and then to Ghana and started something in 2013 called Fashion Rising, which was Studio 99,
05:04
which is the idea of, you know, adding more voices to the room, right? Like every time a consumer votes,
05:10
they vote for the type of world they want to live in. And so what happens if we change the way we
05:14
talk about Africa? What happens if we tell a multi-dimensional view of what happens inside
05:19
the supply chain? And so to me, a lot of it is connected to the actual people, right? Like
05:25
what you come and you go, right? Like you have to be there because the information changes every
05:31
second of every moment of every day. How can you know what's going on if you're not on the ground?
05:36
Empowering the consumer is one of the most important things, but also
05:40
empowering the status quo. So in Naomi Klein's book, This Changes Everything, she said part of
05:48
the optimism around the environment and the conversation around it is the horror that
05:53
there's a status quo around activism. Natasha, do you think that that is something to be optimistic
05:59
about? The fact that there's a status quo and now people are motivated to change and maybe that
06:06
conversation would be easier to have with companies or with the consumer. Can we be optimistic about
06:14
a status quo and that potentially changing?
06:16
I think everybody's doing their part within change, you know, and I think there are some
06:22
really exciting initiatives, whether it's customers and social media awareness, which is,
06:26
you know, or supply chain systems. And I think everybody's kind of biting off pieces of the wheel.
06:31
I do think what's quite powerful is legislation. So across the EU, you will actually be required to
06:37
have a digital ID or a digital product passport for every single item. So you will not be allowed to
06:41
make an item unless you can tell exactly where it came from, exactly where it made of. And also
06:46
because the digital ID records the lifecycle of the product, you will be basically will have the data
06:51
to say, hey, you can be taxed on this product and material because it's not recyclable or it wasn't
06:56
we sold. So that full continuity. And I think that's elevates the whole ship.
07:01
Abrima, how do we sustain empowerment through fashion?
07:04
That is a big question. I think if we're going to, it's about people, you know, like you can't,
07:12
how can you sustain anything if people can't sustain themselves? It doesn't really mean anything,
07:17
right? Like for most of the people that work in the system are women and most of them are in
07:23
informal industries and you will never know their names. Like they're in their homes. They're with
07:27
their kids. They are, they're everywhere, you know? And so if they're, you know, we're wearing
07:33
clothes that they've touched that they've, you know, like it has to be in, in the fabric of what
07:38
you're wearing. You know, it's always been there that needs to be there. And so to me, if it needs,
07:43
for it to be sustainable, like we need to sustain people. So what does that mean? It's topics we talked
07:47
about, it's policy, it's healthcare, it's infrastructure. If I can't get to work, it doesn't matter that I
07:52
have a job. If I can't show up, if I can't afford to feed my kids, it doesn't matter. You know,
07:57
it doesn't do anything. You know, right now currency exchange, the currency is, is devalued a lot,
08:03
you know? So a lot of people, we might be calling them fair wages or living wages, but if the currency
08:07
has fallen 70%, they can't even buy milk, you know? So it's, it's, it's a question of, it's, it's beautiful
08:14
in that there's something we can do about it. So to me, that's the part where I see optimism.
08:18
Clearly a lot of layers to this conversation, especially when it comes to the consumer,
08:24
the, the people, the media, and of course, technology. I want to thank all three of you
08:30
for being on this panel today. Thank you.
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