Bombora | show | 2009 | Official Trailer - video Dailymotion

A definitive history of surfing in Australia, Bombora tells the story of Australian beach culture through our surfing ch | dHNfZWNqRkZUaEMxeFU

Transcript

00:30It was a bit like a spaceship had landed and these guys had jumped out of it.

00:34It was a different way of looking at the world.

00:37It was a different way of being Australian, actually.

00:50Midway through the heat, he did a sensational big turn like this, and the crowd loved it.

01:00What is it that you're trying to get away from by being a surfer?

01:03You grew up on a wild coast and ended up being a wild man.

01:08And we were pretty wild back then.

01:10They're a nuisance and a disgrace when they come around the local village in their dirty clothes.

01:16You're a really good guy.

01:17There's nothing to run with at all.

01:18I was never tempted to be a surfer chick, lie on the beach, hold the keys.

01:24I was always the one to drop the keys and the skateboard and the bike off at the local surf shop and say,

01:29I'm going surfing.

01:36You keep pushing it and pushing it until you get to a life-threatening situation.

01:42Well, lucky no one really died that day.

01:43It tells me that everyone was going one way, I was going a perfect Christmas life.

02:04And it felt wonderful.

02:06I just loved the sun on my back and I didn't care I didn't get a ride for ages, you know.

02:10But just loved being free.

02:13You're it.

02:21All around me.

02:25You're it.

02:36You're it.