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The Food Truck NZ - S03E02 - Japanese Grill

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00:00Chef Michael van der Elzen is taking to the streets of New Zealand for a tiki tour of
00:07taste buds.
00:08His goal, to transform some of the world's most popular fat-filled dishes into healthy
00:13gourmet truck food.
00:19This time, on the food truck, Michael puts Japanese food to the sword and goes in search
00:27of yakitori glory.
00:33Can Michael create a healthier Japanese seafood with the taste, freshness and value Kiwis
00:38expect?
00:39Find out on the food truck.
00:47Its presentation is close to high art.
00:50The emphasis on freshness, almost obsessive, and its healthy reputation is second to none.
00:56Japanese cuisine may just be the perfect food, and the perfect combination may just
01:00be ancient Japanese methods with fresh New Zealand seafood.
01:04There aren't many cuisines as focused on seafood as Japanese, and here in New Zealand we have
01:11some of the best seafood, so I think it makes it a pretty damn good place to eat Japanese
01:15food.
01:16Last time, when I did sushi, they were very strict on fresh ingredients and how you get
01:23them.
01:24Can I get seaweed and make this?
01:25No, impossible.
01:26So this time, I'm on a mission to find the freshest seafood possible.
01:33Michael needs to turn on the fish finder ASAP.
01:36He has just a few days before his Japanese seafood creations will be tested on New Zealand's
01:41greatest connoisseurs of Kaimoana at the Auckland Seafood Festival.
01:45But first, to see what can be done with Japanese seafood, he's off to sample the competition.
01:51Hi, how are you?
01:53In New Zealand, if your food comes in a boxed tray, you're probably in prison.
01:57In Japan, it's dining out, bento style.
02:00This looks beautiful.
02:01Presentation is stunning.
02:02And overall, you know, this is $16.
02:04There's a lot of components to make up a pretty good meal.
02:08Japanese seafood dishes come in all shapes and sizes, and sushi isn't the only round
02:13dish you can roll.
02:14Deep fried octopus balls with mayonnaise and teriyaki sauce.
02:19They're horrendously fatty, so it's actually really, really bad.
02:22But these are tremendously addictive.
02:25Not all deep fried foods are created equal.
02:29Tempura can be tempting, even for the health conscious.
02:32Tempura batter, even though it is deep fried, it is a very light batter.
02:35The lighter the batter, the less oil gets to absorb into that batter.
02:39Amazing Japanese food.
02:40And for this whole portion, that's all the greens.
02:43That's amazing.
02:44My prawn's destructing.
02:45Okay, here we go.
02:47For his last taste test, Michael asks for seafood that's not deep fried and gets given
02:54cabbage.
02:55When you come here to eat and you order yakitori, you get free cabbage.
02:59It's an aid for bringing on the appetite, but that's never been a problem for Michael.
03:03Yakitori is the ancient Japanese art of barbecuing skewers over charcoal.
03:07So first up, salmon.
03:09By putting it onto skewers, putting it over those little coals, you get that smoky hint
03:13coming through the salmon.
03:14That's fantastic.
03:16Next up, we've got our scallops.
03:20They're alright.
03:21They're alright.
03:23I don't think they're fresh.
03:24If they were fresh, God, that would be lovely.
03:26So we've got this prawn here, which has been wrapped in pork or bacon, which I would kind
03:29of take more as a European thing, but these three flavours work really well.
03:33You can take prawn with bacon and mustard, and it's a great combo.
03:37Those are stunning.
03:39Prawns work so well on that.
03:42These mustards are great because they're cooked differently, they're not on the skewers like
03:45everything else that I've had, and then on top they have a little bit of cheese.
03:48Health-wise, probably not fantastic.
03:50Taste-wise, awesome.
03:52Taste versus health.
03:53It's that old yummy versus tummy problem.
03:56Yum.
03:57I'm getting that you can pretty much cook anything on that chargrill, especially seafood,
04:01because it's fast.
04:02Seafood cooks quickly, and so by cooking over chargrills like that, it's the best way.
04:07Michael seems to have worked out how, now he just needs to work out what.
04:13In Japanese food, it seems like you can use just about any type of seafood, as long as
04:18it's fresh.
04:19It needs to be fresh.
04:21I need fresh.
04:24To find the freshest fish, Michael is visiting not a fisherman, but a farmer.
04:29And here comes the farmer now.
04:31Good morning, sir.
04:32How are you?
04:33Duncan Bates.
04:34Michael, pleasure to meet you.
04:35Let's go check out some salmon.
04:36Duncan here is the manager of Akaroa Salmon.
04:40His family has been farming sustainable king salmon in the waters of the Akaroa Harbour
04:44for almost 30 years.
04:46Our philosophy is really to try and produce a farm product as close to the wild salmon
04:51as you can get.
04:52Unlike many salmon farms, Duncan harvests his fish from saltwater pens.
04:56If they're coming out of fresh water, you'll taste the fresh water.
04:59If they're coming out of the ocean, you'll taste the ocean.
05:02The fish are hatched in nurseries close to shore, before being moved to pens of 500 in
05:07the ocean.
05:08How old are these fish here?
05:09They've been at sea for 28 months.
05:11Ah, so these are almost ready to come out.
05:13These fish will be harvested within the next two weeks.
05:16New Zealand produces more than half the world's farmed king salmon, an introduced species
05:20from California, the largest of the Pacific salmon.
05:23What size fish are these?
05:24They're massive.
05:25They'll be weighing in about 10 kilos.
05:27Wow.
05:28The key to that size is feed.
05:30For these fish, it's a case of you are what you eat.
05:33What's this feed made up of?
05:36Fish meal, fish oils, and a few products that bind the pellet together.
05:40All our fish are hand-fed, and that forms a relationship between the salmon farmer and
05:44the salmon.
05:45There you go boys, that's all your food.
05:47All girls.
05:48All girls.
05:49There you go girls.
05:50They want food.
05:51Little do they know I've got another bucket here.
05:54You harvest every single day?
05:56Yeah.
05:57And so these fish will end up on a restaurant's menu tonight, tomorrow?
06:02In Auckland tomorrow morning.
06:04Out of the water.
06:05To the restaurant in one day.
06:06Yeah.
06:07Fresh fish is the best fish.
06:08The fresher the better.
06:09That's great, because I'm actually going to use your salmon to cook Japanese food.
06:14But if Michael wants to use New Zealand's best salmon, he needs to learn how to fillet
06:18it.
06:19It should be a cinch for a chef.
06:20Now, you want to grab the spine there and just sit on top of it with your knife?
06:24Yes.
06:25From this way?
06:26Yeah.
06:27And then all the way down.
06:28Salmon is high in omega-3 fatty acids, which are good for the brain.
06:33Hopefully Michael's been eating his salmon, because filleting it can be a test of brain
06:37power.
06:38You're not quite hitting the spine.
06:39You want to get a wee bit lower.
06:40Are you sure it's salmon you've filleted?
06:43I've probably filleted about 10,000 salmon, but...
06:46That's probably an exaggeration.
06:482,000's a lot.
06:49I've probably filleted about 1,000.
06:50All that really needs to come off.
06:52Can I just chop that bit off?
06:54Yep.
06:55I'm so much better at filleting fish than this.
06:57It may look more like an autopsy than food preparation, but Michael gets there in the
07:01end.
07:02That looks pretty average.
07:03It's very average, to be fair.
07:04I think it's just different techniques.
07:06Yes.
07:07Maybe you'd like to do one the way you'd normally do it.
07:09Or maybe you'd just like to taste it.
07:12Ah, look at that.
07:14I'm going to get a bigger piece of that.
07:16Oh, my stepfather.
07:17Dig in there.
07:18I will.
07:19Oh, yum.
07:20Lovely, isn't it?
07:21Yep.
07:22The product itself, it's as good as it's going to get in regards to salmon.
07:25I know that salmon is big in Japanese cuisine.
07:27I want to do something creative with it.
07:29I want to do something wonderful with it.
07:32What is that going to be?
07:33Who knows, really.
07:34Best of luck.
07:35If anything goes wrong after this, it's all on me.
07:38That's a beautiful one.
07:41Yeah, I've got to give you a uniform back.
07:46Chef Michael van der Elzen is determined to get fresh with the Japanese.
07:50I'm actually going to use your salmon to cook Japanese food.
07:55In just a few days, he'll attempt to steal the show at the Auckland Seafood Festival.
07:59So to steal a march on his competition, Michael has come to Devonport in Auckland
08:04to test his seafood creations by the seaside.
08:08So the plan today is I want to road test some Japanese cuisine.
08:11I've got some kuki ingredients, and I just want to see what people think of my take on Japanese food.
08:17No one does kuki better than the Japanese, so Michael will need to be ballsy,
08:21and sure enough, he has balls in mind.
08:24I want to do my take on the classic takoyaki, which is like the little octopus balls.
08:28That's not an octopus ball, Michael. That's an artichoke ball.
08:32So I'm going to use a very random non-Japanese ingredient,
08:35because I'm a very random non-Japanese sort of guy.
08:38Octopus have their spiky little feet.
08:40I kind of want my octopus ball to be spiky.
08:43These artichoke leaves are going to be the spiky part,
08:46and I'm going to put the octopus on the inside.
08:48You just snap the leaf off, put it into your octopus, and eat it.
08:51Spiky octopus may sound like a species previously unknown to science,
08:55but then this is a dish previously unknown to the culinary arts.
08:58Okay, so I've got some baby octopus.
09:00What I did is I made up a marinade of grapeseed oil, rice wine vinegar,
09:03some wasabi, a few fennel seeds, and a little bit of chilli,
09:06and marinated them overnight.
09:08While the artichoke is cooking, Michael prepares to stick it to his akaroa salmon.
09:12Skewer the whole thing, and then cut it.
09:14I just find this a little bit easier. Just remember to soak your skewers.
09:17Soaking the skewers prevents them from burning.
09:19There you go.
09:20The salmon is ready to go, but not without a sauce.
09:23Traditional teriyaki sauce calls for sake, mirin, soy sauce, sugar, and ginger.
09:28I've got one part of sake.
09:30Mirin is very high in sugar. It's about 40-50% sugar.
09:33So what I've done is I've halved the amount of mirin,
09:35and replaced the other half just with water.
09:37To replace the sweetness of the mirin, Mike's using honey.
09:40Next up, I've replaced the soy sauce with tamari,
09:43which is a stronger sauce, and it has less salt,
09:45and I'm going for the same amount of ginger to give me that teriyaki kick.
09:49Oh, yeah. Look at that. Beautiful.
09:53With the teriyaki ready, it's time for Michael to get himself into a bit of a pickle.
09:57I love to have miso soup.
09:59So I want to work miso into something that I'm going to put on top of my salmon skewers.
10:03So I want to make an eggplant miso pickle.
10:06Miso hungry.
10:07It's a savoury flavour enhancer, and it's going to give this pickle a real kick.
10:12The base of the pickle will be eggplant, simply fried and then squeezed of its moisture.
10:17A touch of tamari, a little bit of honey, spring onions.
10:20Finally, our miso. I've added no salt to this.
10:22We're getting plenty of salt out of that little bit of tamari and that miso.
10:25And that's it. Finished.
10:27It's bloody nice.
10:29Cabbage, on the other hand, is rarely described as bloody nice.
10:32But Michael has plans to make his cabbage more enchanting with a special dressing.
10:36When I went to the Akitori restaurant, they gave me this wedge of cabbage.
10:39So it's like a little cabbage appetiser.
10:41Michael combines a base of sesame seed, mirin, tamari and freshly grated garlic.
10:46And whatever dressing needs is a little bit of oil.
10:48It's just what gives it its viscosity.
10:50It's what?
10:51Viscosity.
10:52Sorry?
10:53Viscosity.
10:54It's what gives it its bulk.
10:56The oil adds viscosity.
10:58Not that hard to say.
10:59There you go. Bingo.
11:00How quick is that?
11:01It's delicious, light, crunchy.
11:03I've now got cabbage with character.
11:05The cabbage now has more character than Mickey Mouse.
11:08But what about Spikey the octopus?
11:10Will this arranged marriage of the garden and the sea work?
11:13Have you ever had octopus balls?
11:15Yes. In Hamilton we had octopus.
11:17Where did you go to?
11:18I just balantised.
11:19I do like the octopus.
11:21Octopus is good? Hard and chokes?
11:22A little hard.
11:23A little hard?
11:24Yeah.
11:25Does this scream Japanese food to you?
11:26Not scream.
11:27So, just a murmur of Japanese.
11:30But the real problem here is Michael's Auntie Chokes.
11:33You know what? These are terrible.
11:34I'll just go for these. I just can't.
11:37But Michael has high hopes for his teriyaki salmon.
11:41What do you think?
11:42It's nice and sweet. It's got a lot of flavour coming through.
11:45It doesn't taste like it's jam packed with sugar.
11:48It kind of just tastes more natural.
11:50It's just beautiful.
11:51There's no words to describe it really.
11:53Can you sum it up in a noise?
11:58Very moist.
11:59Does it taste of teriyaki?
12:00Very much. It's absolutely divine. Beautiful.
12:03I'm stoked.
12:04How much are we willing to pay for two skewers?
12:06Two skewers?
12:07Ten bucks.
12:08Wow.
12:09Six or seven dollars.
12:10Yeah.
12:11Six or seven pounds. That's great.
12:13No, it's not.
12:14But just as Michael's confidence is building,
12:17along come two people who really know their Japanese.
12:20Because, well...
12:21We came from Japan.
12:23Japan?
12:24Yeah.
12:25Do you like cabbage?
12:26Yes.
12:27Okay. What do you think?
12:28I love cabbage.
12:29It's sesame seed dressing.
12:30Oh, yeah.
12:31Sesame seed and garlic.
12:32Oh.
12:33Do you both like salmon?
12:34Yes.
12:35Salmon?
12:36Yes.
12:37The Japanese love their salmon.
12:38But what about that miso eggplant pickle?
12:40I don't like eggplant.
12:42Would you order this at a Japanese yakitori restaurant if you saw it?
12:48Maybe.
12:49Maybe.
12:50Maybe.
12:51Overall, I was pretty disappointed with today.
12:53Really.
12:54You know, the artichokes did work.
12:55The yakitori skewers with the salmon, yes, they worked.
12:58But I didn't really challenge myself.
13:00I need to bring more variety.
13:02I need to bring more than just salmon and teriyaki.
13:04I need to lift my game.
13:06Michael heads back to the garage to think up ways to lift his game.
13:10Fortunately for him, something has arrived that's going to help satisfy his yakitori yearnings.
13:16Right. This is my little makeshift portable grill.
13:19Well, it's not that makeshift, actually. It cost me $20.
13:22It's giving off a tremendous amount of heat.
13:24And I can come along the dock with my little skewers and pretend I'm a little yakitori chap.
13:30Michael's going to have to do a lot more than pretend when it comes to game day.
13:34So, now the stage is set, all $20 of it, he's adding a touch of theatre.
13:39Yes, that is a banana leaf.
13:41I cut this one off my next-door neighbour Barry's tree.
13:43Thanks, Baza.
13:44I'm going to use it as a vessel to steam my salmon.
13:47Popular in Southeast Asia, the banana leaf is nature's paper plate.
13:51When cooked, it imparts a sweetness to food and saves on dishes.
13:55For inside my banana leaf skewer, I'm going to make a real simple, simple dressing.
13:59So, sesame seed oil, and then to keep me very Japanese-inspired, a little bit of sake.
14:04Salt, pepper and rice wine vinegar provide the sour, with black honey for sweetness.
14:09Finally, I just want to chop some ginger through it.
14:13What's coming through in the back is that sake.
14:15It's good to be able to open something up and go, whoo!
14:18The salmon is wrapped with the ginger and microgreens.
14:21Fold once, fold twice, fold the bottom up.
14:24What we have is a wonderful little package that we can fill with our Japanese vinaigrette.
14:29Michael's kite is neatly folded and skewered, like a small gift for a distant relative.
14:34I put this onto my yakitori grill, steam the fish inside,
14:37I give this to the guests, they open up the leaf, and whammo!
14:41Expanding on his seafood range, Michael is offering cockles,
14:45which can be harvested from your local beach and cooked in seconds.
14:49The least amount of time you can cook these, the better.
14:52The longer you cook them, the tougher they become.
14:54A good cockle is a fast cockle. It couldn't be easier.
14:58So for his next skewer, oh, hang on, there's always something extra.
15:02So I've got some rice noodles here.
15:04So I've got a red one in there, which is a prawn flavour.
15:07Got a green one, which is green tea.
15:09And then just a plain white one.
15:11Everything I serve has to look as good as they taste.
15:14Take some cling film and it'll be in a perfect circle.
15:17So they'll just look the part.
15:19I'm really excited about my skewers because you can just have so much fun with them.
15:23The teriyaki is definitely a go.
15:25I'm just going to add some grated cashew for crunch.
15:28I think people will like the salmon and banana leaf concept too.
15:32And I'm also doing a prawn and shiitake mushroom skewer with a spicy wasabi mayo,
15:37just for those classic Japanese flavours.
15:39But I want to offer something a little bit kooky.
15:41So I'm going to do a watermelon and tofu skewer with a jasmine honey glaze and some bonito flakes.
15:48When you put them over something hot, they just move like they're alive.
15:51It just feels so healthy.
15:54All of them do.
15:55I am uber excited about game day.
16:01Chef Michael van der Elzen is trying to make one of the world's healthiest cuisines even healthier.
16:06Does this scream Japanese food to you?
16:08Not scream.
16:09He sourced the freshest New Zealand seafood.
16:12And now he's going to be telling his own yakitori story at the Auckland Seafood Festival,
16:17an annual celebration of kiwi kaimoana.
16:22In Japan, the best chefs work in small restaurants, serving the customers directly.
16:27So Michael has decided to set up his own small restaurant by turning the food truck into a yakitori hut.
16:33It's all about being intimate.
16:35A bit of banter going on.
16:36Da, da, da, what are you doing? Oh, that looks lovely.
16:38Bit of glaze.
16:39Ooh.
16:40It's about the experience.
16:41It's about the presentation.
16:43I can't do that to massive amounts of people.
16:45So today I've kind of closed the crowds off, so to say.
16:48And I'm only letting in a few people at a time.
16:50But those people, I hope, will get the best food truck experience.
16:54Michael is confident he'll be the only stall holder offering a restaurant-type experience.
16:59But will Auckland seafood lovers prefer his sit-down one-on-one to the cheaper fare on offer?
17:04Hot smoked salmon, $10, pretty cheap.
17:06Look at that.
17:07That's probably as close to what I'm doing, and that's $12.
17:10Michael's yakitori needs to be inexpensive.
17:12But today, the food truck is entering new territory.
17:15$20, that's certainly the most I've ever charged.
17:17But the thing is, you know, you've got two people here, it's very intimate.
17:20You know, the food is quality.
17:22I certainly think $20 for all five skewers, it's value for money.
17:26Finally, the scene is set, complete with its Japanese-style curtains, and Michael is ready to go.
17:31But does anyone even know he's here?
17:34Anyone for yakitori?
17:36Anyone?
17:38The food truck is hidden from view, and there are no signs to entice the punters.
17:42It's a risky strategy not favoured by Michael's competitors.
17:47Finally, some bites.
17:49Michael's first customers approach tentatively, as if entering a bordello.
17:53You're my first customers.
17:54Yay!
17:55Very exciting.
17:56Pull up a pew.
17:57Which ones would you like?
17:58The salmon.
17:59Salmon, steamed?
18:00Yes, please.
18:01Good choice.
18:02One steamed parcel.
18:03Oh, yeah.
18:04Being prettily wrapped in banana leaf,
18:06Michael has no idea if his salmon parcels are actually cooked until they're opened.
18:12It's just like Christmas.
18:13Is it good?
18:14It smells fantastic.
18:15That looks perfect.
18:16Okay, so give it a little chilli seasoning, and then you're away.
18:21That's fantastic.
18:22Oh, my God.
18:23That's amazing.
18:24There's loads of flavour.
18:25It's delicious.
18:26Great.
18:27You've got some shiitake and prawn skewers.
18:29The idea of this is you run it through my healthy mayonnaise and then dip it into the crumbs needed.
18:34What do you think?
18:35Quite light?
18:36Yeah.
18:37Really succulent, too.
18:38Cool.
18:39With five exotic skewers on offer, most punters are only too pleased,
18:42handing over $20 for a taste of everything.
18:45So this is the clam, wrapped in the Japanese noodles and sesame seeds with an eggplant miso pickle.
18:51What do you think so far of the flavours?
18:53Love this one.
18:54Okay, good.
18:55This one's a little bit fruity.
18:56Grilled watermelon, tofu that's been soaked in a little bit of tamari and then roasted.
19:00Very nice.
19:01Beautiful.
19:02Yummy, isn't it?
19:03Great.
19:04So that's the teriyaki akaro salmon.
19:05This is probably the simplest of them all.
19:07Dig into that.
19:08Yum.
19:09It's beautiful.
19:10It's just falling to bits.
19:11That is really incredible.
19:13Do you feel your appetite getting stimulated?
19:16It's so stimulated.
19:17I feel hungry.
19:18You make it seem so simple.
19:19Yeah.
19:20Yes, that's because it is.
19:21You're welcome to come to our home and cook any time.
19:23I'll be a lot more than $20 though.
19:25I'm just warning you, okay?
19:26We've got matching glasses.
19:27Oh, we have, haven't we?
19:28Which one's yours?
19:29Yours is a little bit thicker, though.
19:30Yours is a little bit thicker.
19:31More blind.
19:32Thank God, because you're cooking.
19:33Michael's loving the yakking as much as his customers are loving his yakatori.
19:37Go, go, do it.
19:38Oh, yeah, that's how you're supposed to do it.
19:40Oh, yeah.
19:41That's it.
19:42That's it.
19:43Oh, yeah.
19:44Mmm.
19:45Mmm.
19:46Delicious.
19:47That's the most fun I've had for 40 bucks, I tell you.
19:49Great.
19:50Michael's customers are so at home in Michael's hut.
19:53It's quite warm sitting here, isn't it?
19:54Isn't it lovely?
19:55They don't want to leave.
19:56It's just great.
19:57We could just stay here all night.
19:59And suddenly, Michael is becoming a victim of his own success.
20:02They were sitting there for 15 minutes.
20:04I don't have 15 minutes, so I've got to up the tempo and get more people through quicker.
20:09Michael can make his food as fast as he likes, but he can't control the speed of the people eating it.
20:14So, in order to improve his customer-to-profit ratio, Michael is forced to reconsider price.
20:20I think the first time in food truck history, I'm going to put the prices up.
20:24The thing is, I can cook the food fast, but the people can't eat it that fast.
20:28I'm not getting through enough groups.
20:30So, I'm going to change these to $8.
20:32That way, I can get a little bit more money.
20:34It's still pretty damn good.
20:36But is it?
20:37At the festival, other dishes were like about $6 for slightly more food.
20:41So, you know, brutally honest, $8 is expensive for one skewer of salmon for what else you can get at the festival.
20:46But kids enjoyed the taste.
20:48So, that's the first comment I've had.
20:50Someone's saying that it was a bit too expensive.
20:52Maybe because the kids dropped half of them on the ground.
20:55Tell me what you had.
20:56Cinnamon.
20:57Not cinnamon, salmon.
21:00Whatever you call it, Michael's numbers drop off completely after the price rise.
21:04And it's too late in the day for him to recover.
21:07It's been great doing two people at a time because I've been able to get personal and talk and interact.
21:12But look at all the food I've got left over.
21:14I haven't even used a third of what I started with.
21:17And all of this is wasted.
21:19Apart from that, at least the feedback that I got from people was positive.
21:23Everyone that I did manage to feed loved it.
21:26I just didn't feed enough.
21:28Come closing time, Michael's customer base ends up smaller than he would have liked.
21:32But it is extremely satisfied.
21:34It was deliciously different.
21:36Beautiful.
21:37Yakitori at a festival like this beats all the deep fried stuff, I suppose, you know.
21:41Fresh ingredients.
21:43Done well.
21:44What more do you want?
21:45The food was really amazing.
21:47I am not going to lie.
21:48I think my only mistake today was I just didn't charge enough.
21:51You know, I created a little fine dining experience here.
21:55You have to charge more.
21:57The money that I took today wouldn't cover the cost of the food,
22:00let alone the time that it took me to make it.
22:02So, you know, I'm stoked that I tried something different.
22:05But at the end of the day, it didn't work.
22:07You know, the food truck lost money.
22:11Next time, Michael attends a chainsaw massacre on a Mirai.
22:16Meat.
22:18As he attempts to master the Argentinian barbecue.
22:21Beautiful.
22:23Any smoke coming through?
22:25No.
22:26It just tastes like naked lamb.
22:28Look at my cool wheels.
22:30Isn't that awesome?
22:31It's a meat lover's paradise.
22:33Just got to figure out how to light this.
22:35That's next time on the food truck.
22:38Well done, meat.
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