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  • 2 years ago
The Fila holds deep symbolism in the Yoruba culture, representing respect and continuity as it is passed on through generations. Femi Adekambe specializes in making traditional caps and knows which side to turn when.
Transcript
00:00 [MUSIC PLAYING]
00:02 These hats are more than just an accessory.
00:06 Traditional Nigerian men's fashion
00:08 would not be complete without a matching cap.
00:10 These caps come in different designs and cultural symbols.
00:15 Growing up as a child, most of us
00:17 learned how to style these caps, how to pick the pieces
00:21 to complement what you're wearing.
00:24 But before we get into the secret of how to style
00:27 and wear the fila properly and what it says about the person
00:31 wearing it, let's find out why the cap is
00:34 so important for Yoruba men.
00:36 Femi Adekombi is a Lagos-based designer
00:39 who has been making fila caps for over five years.
00:42 For example, this is the etsu fabric.
00:47 It comes in a pink stripe blue adorned with a powder
00:51 blue and bright yellow.
00:54 This design is called the Andin And.
00:56 It symbolizes friendship and relationships with people.
01:00 In the Nigerian culture, men's hats
01:02 are both culturally significant and a form
01:05 of individual expression.
01:07 At the same time, they show a deep connection
01:09 to tradition and spirituality.
01:11 And Femi can bring all this together in one hat.
01:15 This is a design by us that we made with velvet.
01:21 And the embroideries are supposed
01:23 to mean Nigerians arguing with each other
01:26 about politics.
01:27 This is ace design.
01:29 It comes from the popular card games.
01:32 And we designed them with trees beside them
01:37 just to give it an accommodating feel.
01:39 Before we reveal the secret of how to wear the fila properly,
01:43 let's find out how they're produced in the first place.
01:46 Why does Femi work with about 13 local artisans
01:49 from across various parts of the southwestern parts of Nigeria,
01:53 such as Ife and Ijebu?
01:56 This is a popular town known for its techniques
01:58 in handling knitting of caps.
02:00 And they've been doing this for over 100 years.
02:03 They are known for this particular profession.
02:05 And we are going to be showing you ways on how
02:08 we are going to make a complete cap, from the cutting,
02:11 to the lining, to the joining, and the knitting process.
02:13 This is my parents' work.
02:15 And I love the work so much.
02:17 And I've been doing this work like 17 to 20 years ago.
02:21 This is where we make our knitting process
02:23 for some of our caps.
02:25 The cap we're working on is going
02:27 to be made with a powder blue design and a navy blue design.
02:30 It's going to take us about two to three days
02:32 to complete the process.
02:33 We love to use the original hand-woven cotton loom fabrics
02:40 for our caps.
02:40 So we are going to be cutting this into a size 23.
02:43 And we cut the swaths of fabric in a diagonal way
02:47 to enable you to be able to flip your caps on the sides.
02:53 Why is it important to be able to flip the cap to the side?
02:57 More on that later.
02:59 We cut them into swaths of fabrics.
03:01 And we line them from the inside.
03:03 We join the swaths of fabric.
03:06 And the fabrics are cut into sizes
03:10 because to enable us to get the right shape of the cap.
03:14 So we join them together and line the fabrics
03:17 from the inside.
03:17 When we are done with the line of the fabrics,
03:20 we take it to the knitting process and start knitting.
03:22 Knitting usually takes a couple of days
03:25 to complete because every stitch is done by hand.
03:29 And we have to take our time and make sure
03:31 that the products are as fine as they've been for centuries.
03:35 And once it's done, we take it to the eating pad
03:38 where it is well-beaten to give it
03:41 a final flat form that keeps the originality of the embroideries.
03:45 [MUSIC PLAYING]
03:49 Does this painstaking manual work pay off?
03:52 Femi's hats are made by local artisans, which
03:55 strengthens the local community.
03:57 His hats are sold worldwide, which
03:59 boosts the Nigerian economy and helps
04:02 with the preservation of the Yoruba traditions.
04:05 [MUSIC PLAYING]
04:07 The embroideries can last for as long as 10, 15, 20 years,
04:13 depending on how you keep them.
04:15 They can be passed on from generation to the other.
04:19 Now that you've found out how the traditional filas are made,
04:22 it's time to unravel the final mystery of the Yoruba cap.
04:26 How does a man actually wear it?
04:29 It is a general saying that when you're married,
04:32 you wear your cap to the left.
04:35 And when you're not yet married, you wear it to the right,
04:38 in this form, in this form.
04:41 And for those that are not searching, you wear it to the front.
04:45 And because of this mysterious science
04:47 that men can make their fila talk,
04:49 should Yoruba hats be preserved?
04:51 [MUSIC PLAYING]
04:54 It's important that we keep the Yoruba fila
04:56 as a cultural accessory or staple piece for as long as we can.
05:00 Because just like the language itself,
05:02 where we have to protect it and transfer it to our kids
05:05 and make sure it doesn't die.
05:07 Other fashion trends are constantly changing.
05:09 And so are the designs of the fila.
05:12 What doesn't change is the art of making Yoruba caps
05:15 and how to wear them.
05:17 And Femi Adekombi makes sure that the fila remains
05:20 a reminder of the rich culture of the Yoruba people in Nigeria.
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