00:01Some people ask me why I go back to situations I fear or why I go back to these dangerous
00:10waves.
00:16I don't like to hustle for a good wave in a crowded lineup.
00:21I'd rather be alone on a heavier, sketchier wave so that I can choose the wave that I want to
00:26have
00:27and I have to live with the consequences of the wave I took.
00:37It's like a drug, you go more and more and more and more.
00:41It's beautiful, it's scary at the same time.
00:46It was a slap in my face, yeah, literally.
00:52Yeah, like you could eat shit, but you could also get the wave of your life, you know?
00:57So, what kept coming back in my mind was shit, I could have died.
01:03So far, everybody I could have a choice, oh my God.
01:03I think I'm afraid to get what happened to me as well.
01:04Keep going, I think I'm going to—
01:06Keep going, keep compartiling with ripped out.
01:08Okay, alright.
01:10Back to the kart, go first.
