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  • 7 weeks ago
The EU has banned the destruction of new clothing. But companies complain about red tape, experts warn of loopholes, and recyclers say there are not enough buyers for their products.
Transcript
00:01Quality in every detail.
00:03Olymp, in the north of Stuttgart, produces quality men's shirts.
00:08Its annual revenue is 200 million euros.
00:11We put in quite a bit of work to restore returned merchandise,
00:16even if it's no longer in its original packaging,
00:19to a reasonable condition by refurbishing or repairing the clothes,
00:23so that we can get it back on the market.
00:26Their products are too expensive to throw away when returned,
00:30so the company has been complying with the EU's new ban on destroying returned clothes.
00:36It wants to ensure unsold clothing isn't thrown away.
00:40But that means more bureaucracy for the company.
00:44As a first step, more will be documented,
00:47but I doubt whether less will actually be destroyed at the end of the day.
00:52The new EU rules mean large textile companies need to document how much they destroy,
00:58why they do so, and the amount of goods they dispose of.
01:02It's completely unclear how the EU will monitor compliance.
01:06In Germany, the federal government wants to pass that responsibility to the state government,
01:11and that could mean different enforcement measures and fines.
01:16Up to 600,000 metric tons of brand new unused textiles are destroyed each year in the European Union,
01:24according to the European Environment Agency.
01:27That's roughly the equivalent of 25,000 fully loaded trucks, bumper to bumper, stretching 500 kilometers.
01:36Ultra-cheap, low-quality items, commonly known as fast fashion, are flooding the European market.
01:43The EU estimates that around 1 in 10 textile products sold is ultimately destroyed without ever having been worn.
01:51The NGO German Environmental Action believes the true figure is even higher.
01:55The quality of the material on the market in large quantities is so bad that it's not worth recycling.
02:03He too is skeptical about the new EU regulation.
02:08As long as textiles remain so cheap, I don't think this law will have an impact.
02:14Swift action is needed to tackle the problem of textile waste, but Brussels is struggling to make headway with its
02:21rules.
02:22Some companies have other solutions, like WKS.
02:26It recycles textiles in a way that makes financial sense.
02:31The law is providing some support for what we have been doing for over 60 years, repairing new goods and
02:37ensuring quality.
02:38Often, fast fashion can't be recycled.
02:41This can't be fixed.
02:43There are large holes, and the entire filling is already coming out.
02:48In that case, we call it next best use, so either recycling or disposal.
02:56Altex specializes in recovering and recycling textile materials.
03:01Textile waste is reprocessed to be reintroduced into production.
03:06We could expand our capacity.
03:08The only problem is, what do we do with the finished fibers?
03:13Getting returned clothing ready for resale is a costly option for retailers of low-quality textiles.
03:20In many cases, it's cheaper to destroy the merchandise.
03:23If the new rules from Brussels put an end to the destruction of goods in the EU, the problem won't
03:28disappear.
03:29It'll merely be moved elsewhere.
03:32At best, the waste that comes in is collected and sorted, and everything that can't be reused or recycled is
03:40sold all over the world.
03:42The ban on disposal doesn't make things any better.
03:46Fashion today, trash tomorrow.
03:49Brussels has made reducing textile waste a priority.
03:52We need to pay attention during the implementation to ensure that companies do not exploit the loopholes to circumvent the
04:00ban.
04:01Ultimately, textile waste can only be cut drastically by imposing higher tariffs on low-quality cheap goods.
04:08As of July, the EU has charged a three-euro customs duty on every shipment worth less than 150 euros
04:16from outside the block.
04:19We are seeing a real impact. The flood of parcels is beginning to subside. We need to keep moving in
04:25this direction.
04:26Experts say the EU ban on destroying unsold new textiles still allows too many exceptions.
04:32And compliance is hard to monitor. It seems Brussels will have to make further adjustments.
04:37For the EU ban on for 2,000 years.
04:37To support all of these, we have been connected to the EU ban on the fire station.
04:38The EU ban on for 3,500 years.

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