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00:01Cook, Eat, Repeat is frankly the story of my life.
00:06Food is more than just sustenance.
00:08It brings such joy and it has the power to make a real difference every single day.
00:16We all know that cooking can be a balm in troubled times.
00:20But more, I believe that the kitchen can be both a sanctuary and a pleasure palace.
00:27And that's something I am more than happy to celebrate repeatedly.
00:45The more I see you, the more I want you.
00:51Some hopeless feeling
00:56It just grows and grows
00:59I think anchovies have to be one of the most divisive ingredients in the kitchen.
01:05And I can't, I'm afraid, apologize to the anchovy averse because so deep is my love.
01:14I have to talk about it. I couldn't cook without anchovies.
01:16I wouldn't want to eat without anchovies.
01:20I need them in my life at all times.
01:22And actually, you don't need to cook to get them at their most exquisite sometimes.
01:30I think perhaps my favourite, I don't know if I call it a canapé, my favourite snack of all times
01:38has to be just bread, butter and anchovies.
01:42It is important that the butter is spread quite thickly.
01:46There's a Danish expression which I will make an attempt to pronounce, which is tensmer, which literally means tooth butter.
01:56In other words, when the butter is spread so thickly that it leaves tooth marks in it, which just makes
02:02me thrill.
02:03And that combination is so good, the thick unsalted butter and delicate but deeply salty, really resonant strips of anchovy
02:15fillets on top.
02:16I have recently taken this a bit further because I came across a book, this book, published in 1909 over
02:25here called Savories à la Mode by Mrs. de Salis.
02:29And she has many anchovy recipes, but the one I was drawn to is called canapé à la crème.
02:37And she instructs us to cut little rounds of bread and then you fry them in butter and add a
02:43curl of washed and boned anchovies.
02:47And then she says to pour over either Devonshire or whipped cream.
02:52And by Devonshire, I think she would have meant something that we would think of like clotted cream.
02:56And I was a bit hesitant, but I tried these and they were wonderful.
03:04And I felt foolish and annoyed at myself for even being surprised because cream and anchovy are wonderful together.
03:13The perfect partners.
03:14And I know this anyway because I make a creamy garlic and anchovy dressing that just makes salad sing.
03:28This is how I make it.
03:29I prise four anchovy fillets out of a jar, although obviously you can use a tin.
03:35And then I chop them fairly finely.
03:42I pour 75 ml of double cream into my pixie pan.
03:48And into this little pan, I finely grate in two fat garlic cloves.
03:54Then I add my chopped anchovies to the cream and sprinkle over a pinch of ground mace and a fat
04:05pinch of sweet smoked paprika.
04:08I put the pan over gentle heat and I stir all the time.
04:12In fact, I do more than stir.
04:14I like to press the anchovies against the side of the pan with my wooden spoon, helping them to disperse
04:22into the cream.
04:25Once the anchovies are just small flecks in the pale but paprika-tinted cream, I take the pan off the
04:32heat and I cover it with whatever's available and leave the pan to cool.
04:37And when the cream is cold, it'll be wonderfully infused with the garlic and anchovies.
04:43While the flavoursome cream is cooling, I toast some walnuts.
04:48And by toast, I just mean I put them in a hot oven for 10 minutes and then straight away
04:53tip them on a plate in readiness.
04:55I chop quite a bit of parsley.
04:58I mean, you can use whichever herbs you like.
05:00Chives are wonderful here as well.
05:05To turn the anchovy cream into a dressing, first make sure it's cold.
05:10And then I add a good squeeze of lemon juice and whisk in extra virgin olive oil.
05:18Finally, I fork in a good amount of my freshly chopped parsley.
05:23I think this dressing is very much suited to robust or bitter leaves.
05:29And that's why I've got cause for the crunch, along with chicory and frisee.
05:37I think the key to dressing a salad is to add much less dressing than you'd think.
05:46And to toss the dressing into the leaves for so much longer than you'd want.
05:54Once the leaves are lightly and evenly coated with the dressing, I toss in some of my warm toasty walnuts.
06:01Some I leave in halves and some I break up with my fingers to have smaller pieces of nutty rubble.
06:16Before diving in, I scatter over the remaining walnuts and sprinkle with parsley.
06:22This creamy dressing is mild and inviting.
06:25I think of it as perfect entry-level anchovy.
06:29But the anchovy elixir is another matter altogether.
06:34This is hardcore.
06:36It is only for fully paid-up members of the Association of Anchovy Appreciators.
06:51Now for the elixir, I don't use the anchovies that come packed in oil, either in tins or jars.
06:58But these which have been just preserved in salt.
07:02And they are so beautiful with that minky brownness and their silver.
07:08And they need to be soaked just to get the excess salt.
07:11So I'm going to release them into this pool.
07:17And I can get on with the rest of the elixir.
07:21The easiest thing to make the elixir in is a bullet blender.
07:25Although you can use a stick blender.
07:27And I want extra virgin olive oil.
07:31175 millilitres.
07:38And against the pepperiness of the oil, the sharp kiss of lemon.
07:43Quite a lot of it.
07:44It's about the juice of a whole lemon.
07:47I'd say about two and a half tablespoons.
07:49And garlic.
07:51A lot of garlic.
07:52I've got three juicy fat cloves here.
07:56Right.
07:57The anchovies.
08:00I don't fillet the anchovies.
08:03I mean, I take their tails off.
08:05Because, you know, they're going to be blitzed anyway.
08:10You can actually use these salt-packed anchovies exactly as you can.
08:14As you would tinned anchovies.
08:16Soak them, as I have.
08:18And then carefully remove the backbones.
08:26The last one.
08:29All I need now is some water.
08:32125 millilitres.
08:35This is cold water.
08:37And I want it to help emulsify as I blitz.
08:42And I am ready.
08:43I am more than ready.
08:45I am filled with impatient anticipation.
08:50Okay, put your fingers in your ears.
08:52I'm going to make a really horrible noise.
08:54But only briefly.
09:03Ah, a moment of serenity now.
09:17Now, when I first made this, I had it as a dip for crudités.
09:23I find red chicory the perfect vessel.
09:25Perp.
09:26Perp.
09:27Mmm.
09:28This is so good.
09:29But I have since learnt, extensive researching, in other words, eating, that as a source for steak, it is unparalleled.
09:41So I'm just going to light my griddle.
09:45You know, I tend to use rump or sirloin.
09:48What's important for me is that it's about two to three centimetres thick.
09:56I like my steak rare, so I just give it three minutes a side.
10:17Oh, I can't wait.
10:28Steak needs to rest after it comes off the griddle.
10:32Five minutes.
10:35I like to make a baggy but tightly sealed foil package.
10:43And while the steak rests, I've just got one thing I need to do.
10:51Some freshly chopped chives.
11:01So excited.
11:02It's better than unwrapping a Christmas present.
11:06Beautiful.
11:07I'm aiming to carve it in thin slices on the diagonal.
11:22I'm going to have to focus as I do this because, as you probably don't need me to tell you,
11:28I don't have the finest knife skills.
11:39I'm sorry, I can't wait. I have to just have this bit now.
11:42I'm going to get a bit more because it's worth it.
12:02So, against the tender sweetness of the meat, the rasping deep salinity of the elixir,
12:26here. There's only one other thing this and I am calling for, and that's chopped chives.
12:52This is my idea of heaven.
13:24I'm making a lemon blossom, a drink of my own devising. I've got a shot of vodka in there,
13:31and now a shot of limoncello, followed by a shot of elderflower cordial. I mean, I don't
13:39know whether you measure cordial in shots, but here it is. A sharp hit of lemon. Cocktails
13:54have got to be very cold.
14:21There's just something about the fragrant sourness of lemon.
14:26With those tender floral notes of elderflower, it's just wonderful together. But I think
14:33this combination might find its highest expression in my lemon and elderflower drizzle pudding,
14:39which is the perfect Sunday lunch pud.
14:49This is easy enough to make by hand, but with a processor, it's a complete doddle. Really,
14:56you just put everything in. Starting off with 175 grams of soft, unsalted butter. And it
15:06is important to say when baking, everything should be at room temperature. Right. I've got
15:14150 grams of caster sugar and 100 grams of flour. And next, baking powder, a teaspoon and a half. Although,
15:31if you were making this by hand, you just need one teaspoon only because you'll be beating in more air.
15:38Ground almonds, 75 grams here, which give a lovely tender nuttiness. It's very delicate.
15:49A pinch of salt, always good in baking. And three large eggs at room temperature.
16:07And also room temperature, 50 grams of full fat Greek yogurt. And very importantly, the zest of a lemon.
16:26So the zest goes into the pudding base. And the juice goes into the drizzle. But really,
16:36the flavour is in the zest. I want every last bit. Right. Ready to blitz.
16:56And finally, two tablespoons of elderflower cordial. Not much in the actual pudding. Lots
17:06in the drizzle. What can I tell you? That's it.
17:20I know it doesn't look like an awful lot of batter, but it will be enough. It puffs up gloriously
17:26in the oven.
17:27Got a buttered dish here. Go for one of about a litre and a half capacity and five centimetres deep.
17:35It's important it's fairly shallow. I'll just spread it all out, this fragrant, nubbly batter.
17:49And all this needs now is about 25 minutes in a moderate oven, by which I mean 180 Celsius or
17:57160 if you're using the fan.
18:01And while it's in the oven. And while it's in the oven, I will mix up the drizzle topping.
18:11For this, I need a hundred mils of elderflower cordial.
18:20And the juice, three tablespoons in all, for my zested lemon.
18:31And that's all there is to it. Ready for my cake as soon as it comes out of the oven.
18:39I can't look at that without smiling.
18:42And you can see when it's ready, it's beginning to come away at the edges.
18:48And that golden bit is going to be so crisp and wonderful.
18:53And here, it's sort of springy and squidgy.
18:58Shortly, to become even squidgier, because I shall anoint it with elderflower and lemon.
19:04But first, puncturing it so the blossomy citrus juices can permeate all the way through.
19:18Now, I'm going to try and go slowly so the drizzle does, in fact, drizzle rather than pull.
19:31I've got a lot of this aromatic liquid to drizzle, and that suits me just fine.
19:48I've got a little bit of a lake there, but actually, I'm not going to discourage it too much.
19:54I'm going to give myself a bit of the corner.
19:57A bit of everything, actually.
20:07Now, a bit from the squidgy centre.
20:11Can you see?
20:13It has that feathery, light, steamed pudding texture.
20:19Now, there is a good case to be made for custard, but for me, it has to be double cream
20:24here.
20:33When your messages said you were going to bed, but I'm not done with the night.
20:42So I stayed up and read
20:44The two words in my head
20:46Got me mixed up so I turned out the light
20:51And I don't know how to slow it down
21:00My mind's racing from chasing her
21:04Bad news for Antiphobe's, I'm afraid
21:10Those little fishes have found their way
21:12Into my spaghetti with charred and chilli
21:15Well I say my because this is something I cook and eat so often
21:20But in fact I first had it
21:23At a lovely little restaurant in Foy
21:25Which is in Cornwall last Christmas
21:27If you love anchovies
21:29This is the sort of food you live for
21:32And if you don't, don't worry
21:34You can leave out the anchovies
21:36But you will need to replace their umami oomph
21:40So maybe some chopped up black olives
21:43Or easier still
21:45Just a dab of yeast extract
21:47You know like marmite or vegemite
22:03Right, while the pasta bubbles merrily away
22:06I'm going to prepare my chard
22:11Now I use rainbow chard because
22:13I mean look at it
22:14How beautiful it is
22:16Look those veins
22:18It's hard to believe that this exists
22:21In real life
22:22And isn't just the figment
22:23Of a nursery school child's imagination
22:27I think the stems or ribs
22:30Are charred separately from the tender leaves
22:33So I'm going to strip them
22:37It is a pity to mar the beauty
22:40But it's all in a good cause
22:42My supper
22:45Now I have a short but chewing bout
22:49Of technicolor chopping
22:53If you haven't had chard before
22:55I think it's best to describe it really
22:57As a cross between spinach and kale
23:06But what both chard and pasta need
23:08Is some oomph
23:11Don't we all
23:16Right, first stop
23:18Umami central
23:19Eight
23:20Anchovy fillets
23:28And when you cook
23:30With anchovies
23:31You don't need to chop them
23:33Before you pop them in the oil
23:34As it warms
23:36You squish
23:38Them into the pan
23:39And they will begin
23:40To melt
23:42Into the oil
23:49I wouldn't say
23:50That the anchovies
23:51Have totally dissolved
23:53But they've broken down a lot
23:54And now they're
23:55Those soft
23:56Flavoursome shreds
23:58And turn the heat off
24:00Because next comes garlic
24:02A lot of garlic
24:03And I don't want it to burn
24:08I know this looks
24:09Like it's going to be overwhelming
24:11But it really isn't
24:15Once everything's mixed together
24:17What it will give
24:18Is just a lot of warm oomph
24:25I want a bit of fire
24:26Flickering its way
24:28Through this as well
24:29So some dried chilli flakes
24:31I start so many recipes
24:33Off like this
24:34And I have to say
24:35Olive oil
24:36Anchovies
24:37Garlic
24:37Chilli
24:38Any vegetable
24:40Tossed in this
24:41Would be
24:41Wonderful
24:43Oh my stems
24:45Come here my beauties
24:50While the brightness
24:51Of these stems
24:52Will get a little murky
24:54In the pan
24:54With the anchovies
24:55The flavour
24:57Will be
24:58Even more vibrant
25:02Just mixing everything
25:04Together briefly
25:09And then
25:11It's boiled fairly recently
25:13Some hot water
25:17Let it bubble a bit
25:23And then with the lid on
25:25Everything will cook
25:27To wonderful tenderness
25:28While I get on with the leaves
25:37I always try and do
25:38Something clever with these
25:39Like put them in a pile
25:40And roll them up
25:41Which I am going to try and do
25:43And then cut them
25:51These leaves
25:52Won't need really
25:54To do more
25:54Than wilt
25:55In the heat
25:59In they go
26:01Reunited
26:08I really just want
26:10To toss these together
26:12Just so the leaves
26:14Are coated in that
26:15Flavoursome liquid
26:28So let's see
26:29How the pasta
26:30Is doing
26:34Feels just right
26:37You can see
26:38How the chard leaves
26:39Have cooked down
26:40Like spinach
26:45You don't need to drain
26:47The spaghetti
26:47Just add
26:49The beautiful
26:50Pale golden strands
26:52Straight to the pan
26:54It doesn't matter
26:55If there's still a bit
26:56Of water
26:57Dripping off the pasta
26:59Because it's the starchy
27:01Liquid
27:01That will help
27:02Emulsify the sauce
27:04Helping it cleave
27:05To each strand
27:10I favour
27:11An implement
27:12In each hand
27:13For this
27:16This is where
27:18I am trying
27:19To make myself
27:19Be patient
27:20Because right now
27:21I just want
27:23To eat
27:24Without waiting
27:25To stir everything
27:27Together
27:29But I will
27:33Now
27:34I like to
27:36Douse
27:37With a bit more
27:38Extra virgin olive oil
27:43Convey to my bowl
27:55The Italians
27:56Are not going to like
27:57This because
27:58They have a rule
27:59Generally speaking
28:00That you don't add
28:01Cheese
28:02To pasta
28:03If it's either
28:05Very garlicky
28:06Or has fish
28:08In the sauce
28:08And this
28:10Is divinely abundant
28:12In both garlic
28:13And anchovies
28:15But I love it
28:17With some grated
28:18Pecorino Romano
28:20Or parmesan
28:21Over the top
28:22The closer you get
28:23The better you love
28:25Baby
28:26Baby
28:27I'm going in
28:29The better you look
28:31The more
28:32I want you
28:37When you turn on
28:39Your smile
28:41You've dropped some
28:42Andy Oliver
28:43Has some festive dishes
28:44Especially if you love
28:45Vegetables
28:46One dish celebrates
28:47Christmas on BBC
28:48Sense
28:48But next
28:49Katie Piper
28:50And Adam Pearson
28:51Search for a profit
28:51Including the line
28:52It's an insult
28:53New celebrity
28:54And seeks road trip
28:56The sweetest
28:57Baby
28:59The sweetest
29:01Loving you
29:04Yeah
29:07I'm going in
29:07To disappearateg
29:07I'm
29:08going in The sweetest
29:08Hay力епot
29:08He Happened
29:09my
29:09Heroes summar toc
29:09Boah
29:09'真的