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00:03The Irish state owns and is responsible for thousands of properties, from government buildings, embassies and offices, to parks and
00:13monuments.
00:16Among this vast collection are the National Historic Properties, a fascinating collection of castles, country houses, memorial sites and gardens,
00:28and 32 of these are open to the public.
00:33Many of these properties were given to the state as gifts, a few were bought by the state,
00:38and others, such as Orson Oogteron and Dublin Castle, came into the state's possession when Ireland gained independence in 1922.
00:54In this episode, a collection of four properties, each one in its unique way a centre of power.
01:02Dublin Castle, for centuries the epicentre of English and then British rule in Ireland,
01:07and now the location for important state events and presidential inaugurations.
01:14Derrynan House in County Kerry, almost as far from Dublin as it's possible to be within the country,
01:21but the place where Daniel O'Connell, whom some called the unofficial King of Ireland, held court like an old
01:28Gaelic chieftain.
01:31Oldbridge House, located beside the River Boyne, where, in a blood-soaked battle between two foreign monarchs,
01:39the power to rule Ireland passed from Catholic King James to Protestant King William,
01:45with profound and long-lasting consequences.
01:48And St. Enders, in County Dublin, where Patrick Pearce, a teacher before he became a revolutionary,
01:55set up a school designed to educate a new generation of Irish leaders for a new Ireland,
02:02a plan in what might today be called the exercise of soft power.
02:17Dublin Castle was originally developed as a medieval fortress under the orders of King John of England in 1204.
02:25Over the centuries, Dublin Castle had many functions, acting as a treasury, a prison and the administrative centre of English
02:34rule,
02:34but had served principally as a residence for the Lord Lieutenant of Ireland,
02:39who was the British monarch's representative, often known as the Viceroy.
02:46In a response to political unrest in 1783, King George III gave a royal warrant granting the Lord Lieutenant,
02:55the Duke of Buckingham, permission to create the most illustrious order of the Knights of St. Patrick.
03:02The Viceroy was given the duty of acting Grand Master,
03:06and the title of a Knight of the Order was given to its members.
03:11At the end of the 18th century, the Duke of Buckingham could see that the upper class were forming into
03:17the volunteers,
03:18so he came up with the great idea to initiate the Order of St. Patrick.
03:25It was a chivalrous order, which, of course, appealed hugely to the lords who were invited to become members of
03:34it.
03:35It was an absolutely beautiful uniform with a lovely pale blue cape and various decorations.
03:42So it was similar to the Order of the Garter in England, or the Order of the Thistle.
03:47This was the Order of St. Patrick.
03:50It was really to kind of shut up some of the upper crust, who were always clamouring for,
03:58can I have this, and I have a nephew who would like to be this, and he would be ideal
04:02for it.
04:03And generally, there was just a little bit of unhappiness at the end of the century,
04:07and he thought this would be just a great idea.
04:10Developed in the mid-18th century as a ballroom, St. Patrick's Hall took its name from its use
04:16as the meeting place of the Knights of St. Patrick.
04:19The banners of its members can still be seen hanging from the walls.
04:25The Duke of Buckingham decided that he would get an artist, Vincent Valdrae,
04:32and he asked him to come over and paint three panels to go on the ceiling of St. Patrick's Hall.
04:40The paintings themselves, it's all about the unity, the special relationship between Britain and Ireland,
04:48and also there are some emblems in the paintings that refer to the Knights of St. Patrick.
04:56There was a big fanfare, there was a big inauguration in St. Patrick's Cathedral,
05:02where they actually have stalls with their flags and all of the rest of it,
05:06and a big parade between Dublin Castle and St. Patrick's.
05:12As a viceregal palace in the 19th and 20th centuries,
05:16it had become encrusted with Victorian and Edwardian formality,
05:21the epicentre of British power in Ireland.
05:25All that was about to change.
05:29In December 1921, the Anglo-Irish Treaty was signed,
05:35enabling the establishment of the Irish Free State.
05:38On the 16th of January 1922, at a meeting at Dublin's Mansion House,
05:44the Provisional Government elected Michael Collins its Chairman.
05:48At approximately 1.40pm, three taxis carrying eight ministers of the new government
05:55passed through the archway that led to the Upper Castle Yard.
06:00After a short meeting inside the Privy Council Chamber,
06:03Michael Collins and the other ministers swiftly left.
06:06At 3pm, the Viceroy departed,
06:10and after 700 years, Dublin Castle belonged to the Irish.
06:26Six previous presidents used the famous Blue Rolls Royce on ceremonial occasions.
06:31Today, just before noon, and in keeping with tradition,
06:35it brought President-elect Mary McAleese to Dublin Castle for her inauguration.
06:40Since 1938, Dublin Castle has been the location for the inauguration of the President of Ireland.
06:47In the same hall that once held gatherings of the Knights of St. Patrick,
06:52newly elected presidents take their oath of office and begin their seven-year term.
07:00I hadn't anticipated that the historic resonance of the castle and its story
07:07would impact me on the day of my first inauguration just as deeply as it did.
07:12You know, to see all the great and good gathered there,
07:14but to know that among them there were people from a very different tradition from me
07:19whose view of that history probably is very different from mine.
07:24They wouldn't have felt as oppressed by it.
07:26Their narrative would have, if you like, smoothed off the raw edges of that.
07:31And also to have in the grounds of the main castle yard,
07:36we had about 800 children,
07:38whom we'd invited from all over Ireland, north and south,
07:42and from all traditions,
07:44to know that they were there.
07:46That mattered to me because I hope that in being there,
07:49first of all, they're part of the story of the castle now
07:51and in its new life and in its future life.
07:57I want to point the way to a reconciliation of these many tensions
08:02and to see Ireland grow ever more comfortable and at ease
08:06with the flowering diversity that is now all around us.
08:12You can't sever the narrative of the past from the present or the future,
08:18but you can, I think, nudge the narrative in a completely different direction
08:23from the straight line of, you know, oppression, frustration, violence, conflict, enmity.
08:30And I think that's what we were about the business of doing that day,
08:34of saying that is the past, all shaped by it.
08:37This building, the Dublin Castle, resonates with that whole story.
08:41I mean, some horrible things happened there, dreadful things.
08:44But here we are on a different day
08:47and the narrative has changed
08:49and it's one that should open us up to the future
08:51and not tie us to the past.
08:57Dublin Castle has become an extraordinary visitor facility
09:02in the city of Dublin.
09:04I think a lot of the goals and the aims of safeguarding
09:10a number of these iconic and really significant buildings,
09:15sometimes from an architectural point of view,
09:17sometimes from what historical events happened at buildings.
09:22What's remarkable about it is,
09:24is that it is, through the buildings of Ireland,
09:28able to tell the history of Ireland.
09:31And I, for me, that's the most remarkable part.
09:45On a July morning in 1690,
09:47the countryside near Drogheda in County Mead
09:51became the site of a battle that would eventually decide
09:54who held the British throne
09:56and the source of religious power in Ireland.
10:00The Battle of the Boeing
10:02was the largest military engagement
10:04ever to take place on Irish soil,
10:06with over 59,000 troops deployed on the battlefield.
10:13Over 300 years later,
10:15this 17th century battle
10:17still has a political and cultural resonance in Ireland.
10:24When visitors arrive at Old Bridge Estate,
10:27what they see on arrival is a country house.
10:30But it is significant because the battle took place there.
10:33And it's hard to believe when you look out
10:34at the very tranquil country estate
10:36and the rolling grass on the walled gardens
10:38that are very tightly landscaped,
10:40that this is a site where the largest battle
10:42ever fought in Ireland was fought.
10:44And it's hard to believe 1,500 people died there.
10:49Flanked by the River Boyne,
10:51Old Bridge Estate is the only battle site
10:53in the OPW's National Historic Properties portfolio.
10:57The significance of the battle that took place on this site
11:00being the reason for its inclusion.
11:05The Battle of the Boyne was very much a family story
11:08in many ways.
11:09It was fought between two sides,
11:11the Williamites and the Jacobites.
11:12The Williamites were the soldiers of King William III,
11:15Jacobites, King James II.
11:17And James and William were also very closely related
11:20in that William was married to James' daughter, Mary.
11:23So they were father-in-law and son-in-law.
11:25They were also uncle and nephew.
11:27So the relationships were very close.
11:29James had become King of England when his brother died
11:32and he was not a terribly popular king,
11:34not least because he was a Catholic.
11:35And it was expected that his daughter, Mary,
11:38who was Protestant, would inherit the throne
11:40along with her husband, King William of Orange.
11:42So the feeling in Britain at the time
11:44was that we could endure King James
11:46because we're going to get Mary and William.
11:48William and Mary's expected ascension
11:51to the British throne was thwarted
11:53when, after the death of his first wife,
11:56King James married a Catholic princess.
12:00The couple's twelfth child was a boy
12:03who automatically became first in line to the throne,
12:06superseding Mary's claim.
12:08This would ensure another generation of Catholic monarchs.
12:12So the disgruntled nobles of Great Britain
12:15invited the Protestant King William and Mary
12:18to return to Britain to take the throne.
12:21King James fled to Ireland, where he had support,
12:25to gather his troops in order to fight a war.
12:28The Irish were mainly Catholics.
12:32They supported James, a fellow Catholic,
12:36for precisely the reason that English Protestants rejected him
12:40and that therefore, inevitably,
12:42the struggle becomes a religious and ethnic struggle.
12:46So James was able to raise an Irish army with French support.
12:49So he arrived in Ireland then
12:50to attempt to take back control of Ireland, firstly,
12:53because Ireland still had a Catholic majority.
12:55And then the intention was that he would use his power in Ireland
12:58then to regain the throne of Great Britain.
13:00It's a British civil war.
13:03You have two contestants claiming to be kings of England, Scotland and Ireland,
13:07which are still separate kingdoms.
13:08It's a religious and ethnic war in which one side are mainly Irish Catholics,
13:16the other side are mainly, but not exclusively, English and Scottish Protestants.
13:20It's also a European war in which Louis XIV, the Sun King,
13:26the most powerful monarch in Europe, is backing James.
13:30William is also fighting for his position in Europe
13:33because he has been involved in a series of wars against Bourbon, France.
13:37and this is another manifestation of that for him.
13:41So we take a very Hiberno-centric approach
13:44and it is a crucial moment in Irish history, without doubt.
13:47It's the Irish Gettysburg.
13:49But for William, there's a lot of play in the European context as well.
13:53Whoever loses this ceases to be king of Great Britain and Ireland
13:58and the emerging empire in Americas and whatever else.
14:01So there's quite a bit at stake in the 17th century context.
14:16William has essentially advanced from the northwards to the banks of the Boyne.
14:20He needs to get across the Boyne somewhere.
14:22And in terms of a direct route into Dublin,
14:25it's going to be somewhere, if not Drogheda,
14:28that'll be the preferable route, but that is actually fortified and held.
14:31So then he is seeking a route somewhere across the Boyne.
14:34A river barrier, if it is fordable, is not a very convincing barrier.
14:39So the river Boyne is fordable.
14:42So the main actions on the river happen at Bridgeford, Old Bridge, Rossnery,
14:48where troops on foot can cross.
14:54Williamites are 36,000 to James' 23,000.
14:59They're both substantial forces.
15:01And they've come there, they're configured as armies are in that period of time.
15:04You've got infantry, and your infantry would be kind of like armed with kind of like pikes and swords,
15:10and then also firearms.
15:12They will have, some will have matchlock muskets,
15:14but others will have the more technically advanced flintlock muskets.
15:17And then there's artillery on both sides, shooting backwards and forwards across the river.
15:22So in the 17th century context, they are modern armies in that moment in time.
15:31It's a very interesting battle in that we have, unusually, almost singularly,
15:36an accurate first-hand picture done on the spot.
15:40The artist, Dirk Mace, even shows himself drawing the picture so as to prove that he was there.
15:48On the right of the panel, he shows the very first crossing at around 8 o'clock that morning.
15:55He couldn't have seen it from his vantage point, so it's an imagined reconstruction.
15:59The middle is topographically accurate.
16:03That is showing the major crossings.
16:05When we think of the battle, we think of this crossing at Old Bridge Ford,
16:10where you have the Dutch Guards, the Huguenots.
16:13You've got English troops, you've got North Irish troops, you've got Danish troops,
16:16all crossing there, being resisted heavily by Irish infantry,
16:21and most particularly by Irish cavalry.
16:24And on the left of the picture, he's using his imagination again.
16:28He's showing a later phase of the battle when downriver,
16:32near where the present-day motorway is carried across the River Boyne,
16:38that's where William crossed.
16:42It's a marvellous evocation of what happened.
16:58In terms of casualties on the field, they reckon about 1,500 dead.
17:03You would usually then, kind of like the metric is usually to say,
17:06maybe double that for wounded.
17:07So you're looking at about 3,000 maybe wounded.
17:11When you look at the rounds, especially the muskets of firing,
17:14they're quite big calibre, kind of, you know, soft, round lead bullets.
17:19When you hit people, the wounds are devastating, absolutely devastating.
17:23There's talk about wounds, exit wounds, the size of a dinner plate.
17:26And then on the other side of that, for somebody who is wounded,
17:30surgery and military surgery in particular is so primitive.
17:34You know, your chances of survival,
17:36your chances of not being infected and surviving are very, very slim.
17:42To a modern eye, they look quite small in terms of casualties.
17:45But in the context of the 17th century,
17:47to have that many people killed in an action on one day,
17:51it is reasonably phenomenal.
17:53And it's reported at the time that this is,
17:57in a 17th century context, a heavy casualty battle.
18:00The outcome of that major battle
18:03is that the Irish are pushed back from the riverbank.
18:06It's not a decisive battle
18:08because the Irish or Jacobite army escapes.
18:11When the retreat starts,
18:13James and his party are allegedly the first people
18:16to make it back to Dublin.
18:17And he's always attributed that cowardly Irish fled the line.
18:20So to say his popularity dipped
18:23would be an understatement in the Irish context.
18:26It isn't a decisive battle.
18:29However, it is pivotal in its memory,
18:33its historical significance,
18:35and it delivers the capital, Dublin.
18:37James is fighting to keep Dublin.
18:39If you control the capital,
18:41you have legitimacy and credibility
18:44in the eyes of your European backers or enemies.
18:48James lost, he lost credibility.
18:51He believed he'd lost the war.
18:53He hadn't, yet, by a long shot.
18:56And he fled the country.
18:57So he accepted the outcome
18:59as being decisive and important.
19:01And that gives it an importance
19:03that perhaps, objectively, it didn't have.
19:06In Ireland, the main consequence
19:08was the establishment
19:09of a ruling Protestant ascendancy.
19:11And within five years of the battle,
19:13the British Parliament had begun
19:15to enact a series of laws
19:16known as the Penal Laws,
19:17which substantially restricted
19:19what Catholics could do in Ireland.
19:22And then later in history,
19:23as we move through the 18th century,
19:24towards Daniel O'Connell's time,
19:26many people are familiar
19:27with the Catholic Emancipation Movement.
19:29That all would have arisen
19:30out of the laws that were passed
19:32by Parliament as a result
19:33of the Battle of the Boyne.
19:34It has become very much
19:36a dividing line politically.
19:38Modern Ulster identity,
19:40modern Orange identity,
19:41is based all around the Boyne
19:43and the victory at the Boyne.
19:44And not only the military success in that,
19:46but that somehow underlines
19:48is kind of like political success
19:49and moral success.
19:50And that has been part of the narrative.
19:55In 1998,
19:57the Good Friday Agreement
19:58was signed and approved
20:00by public votes in Northern Ireland
20:02and the Republic of Ireland.
20:04The political deal
20:05was designed to bring an end
20:07to 30 years of violent conflict
20:09in Northern Ireland,
20:10known as the Troubles.
20:12Part of the agreement
20:13included the Irish government's commitment
20:15to honour the history
20:17of all traditions on the island.
20:19And so, in the year 2000,
20:22the Irish state purchased Oldbridge Estate.
20:27So after eight years of renovations,
20:29the site opened to visitors in May 2008.
20:31And it was opened by then
20:33First Minister of Northern Ireland,
20:34Ian Paisley,
20:35and then Taoiseach Bertie Ahern.
20:36And it was quite a landmark moment
20:37following the peace process.
20:40It was quite a special day,
20:41very much kind of emblematic
20:43of everything that had gone before.
20:51Derrynane stands at the southwestern tip
20:53of the Evara Peninsula in County Kerry,
20:56one of the furthest points
20:57from Dublin in the country.
21:00A journey here from the capital
21:01by road in the 19th century
21:03would have taken many days
21:05of very uncomfortable travel.
21:07Yet it was a journey often made
21:09by Daniel O'Connell
21:10on his visits to his ancestral home,
21:13Derrynane House.
21:14For Daniel O'Connell,
21:16lawyer, politician, statesman,
21:19and one of the great figures
21:20in modern Irish history,
21:22Derrynane was not only his refuge,
21:25it was his power base.
21:28As a result of his hard-won fight
21:31to repeal the penal laws
21:32introduced by the British
21:34shortly after the Battle of the Boyne,
21:36Daniel O'Connell became known worldwide
21:38as the Liberator.
21:42People would come to Derrynane
21:44to meet him,
21:45people would write to him,
21:45including the Tsar of Russia,
21:47to ask for his autograph,
21:48and people were astonished
21:49at O'Connell the orator,
21:51O'Connell the statesman,
21:52O'Connell the agitator,
21:54and the way that he was able
21:55to achieve major reforms
21:56for the Irish people,
21:57but without resorting to violence.
22:04The O'Connells came from
22:05Ballycarbury Castle,
22:07and in 1650,
22:09after the Cronwellian government
22:10came to Ireland,
22:11they moved to Tarmans
22:13just outside of Waterfall,
22:15and Daniel O'Connell's
22:16great-grandfather,
22:18Captain John O'Connell,
22:20came here to Derrynane.
22:22His son, Donal Moore,
22:25would have set up
22:25a trading business,
22:27which Daniel O'Connell's uncle,
22:29Morris Huntingcap O'Connell,
22:31continued with.
22:33Daniel O'Connell's uncle
22:34was a man called
22:35Morris O'Connell,
22:36but better known as
22:37Huntingcap,
22:38because he refused to wear
22:40the beaver hat
22:41that the gentry wore
22:42because there was a tax on it,
22:43and instead he wore
22:44the velvet hunter's cap,
22:46and so because of his choice
22:47of headwear,
22:48he was known as Huntingcap.
22:50He was a very rich man,
22:51he owned land,
22:52but more crucially,
22:53he was a smuggler.
22:54Our business was
22:55importing wines and spirits
22:57from Spain and Portugal,
22:59and that was a legal business
23:01in those days,
23:02but in 1661,
23:04they brought in excise duties,
23:07taxes on spirits,
23:08so what we'd been doing
23:09entirely legally
23:10for a couple of hundred years
23:11suddenly became illegal.
23:13Huntingcap had a fleet
23:14of seven or eight ships
23:15going to and fro
23:16from the continent,
23:18and they'd come in
23:19late at night
23:20and be unloaded
23:21and then disappear,
23:22often carrying goods
23:24back to the continent,
23:25but also young men
23:27who, because of the penal laws,
23:29weren't allowed
23:29to make their fortunes
23:31in Ireland.
23:32They had to go
23:32over to the continent.
23:35Huntingcap had a lot of money,
23:36but he had no children
23:37of his own,
23:38but his brother
23:39had a number of children,
23:41and one of them
23:42was Daniel,
23:43and although Daniel
23:44wasn't the oldest,
23:45he was the most intelligent,
23:46he had the most promise,
23:48he had the most potential,
23:49and so Huntingcap
23:50pretty much took him
23:51under his wing,
23:52made him his heir,
23:54brought him to Derry-Nan,
23:55and decided that
23:56he would be educated.
23:57And of course,
23:58because O'Connell
23:59was a Catholic,
24:00he couldn't be educated
24:01in Ireland,
24:02and so he was sent
24:03to the continent
24:03in 1789
24:04to receive
24:05a brilliant education.
24:07Daniel was sent across
24:08to initially Belgium
24:10and then France
24:11to be educated,
24:12paid for,
24:13by Huntingcap,
24:14and Dan's education
24:16in France
24:17coincided
24:18with the start
24:19of the French Revolution,
24:20and Dan saw
24:21the bloodshed
24:22of the revolution,
24:23and he resolved
24:25that he would achieve
24:26revolutionary change
24:28for Ireland
24:28using peaceful means only.
24:30Daniel was quite independent,
24:32ambitious,
24:33very much his own man,
24:35wanted to do his own thing,
24:36but also very interested
24:38in politics.
24:39He wanted to become
24:40a member of the Irish Parliament,
24:42he wanted to become
24:43a major political figure,
24:44and his uncle
24:46didn't approve of that.
24:47He was determined
24:48that Daniel
24:49should follow
24:49in his footsteps,
24:51that he wanted Daniel
24:52to become a great lawyer,
24:54to own Derry Nan,
24:55to farm the area,
24:57but he very much
24:58wanted him
24:58to follow in his footsteps.
25:00Well,
25:00Huntingcap held
25:01the purse strings
25:02and Dan was
25:04very dependent on him
25:05and he was always
25:08having to explain
25:09to Huntingcap
25:10his expenditure
25:11and why it was reasonable
25:13and appropriate
25:14for what he was doing.
25:15He became very good
25:17at manipulating
25:18Huntingcap,
25:19and I think that helped him
25:20in his later life
25:21in dealing with people,
25:23how to get them
25:24on your side.
25:27O'Connell was terrible
25:28with money,
25:28and I think part of the problem
25:30was Huntingcap.
25:31He knew that as soon
25:32as Huntingcap died,
25:33he would inherit Derry Nan,
25:35money,
25:36the land,
25:36and so it was in a sense
25:38a kind of a trust fund
25:39for him.
25:40So there was no incentive
25:41to save money.
25:43Huntingcap died
25:44at the age of 97
25:45when O'Connell himself
25:46was 50 years old
25:48and then instead
25:49of using the money
25:50to pay off his debts,
25:52Daniel went further
25:53into debt
25:53because he decided
25:54to rebuild Derry Nan.
25:57The original house
25:58which would have been built
25:59in 1702
26:01would have been north-facing.
26:03So when Daniel O'Connell
26:05inherited the property,
26:06he put on a new wing
26:07facing south
26:09which contained
26:10a dining room,
26:12drawing room,
26:13study,
26:14and library.
26:16O'Connell loved Derry Nan.
26:17For him,
26:18that was home.
26:19That was his place
26:20of refuge
26:21when he was involved
26:22in the great campaign
26:23for civil rights
26:24in the 1820s.
26:25It was his place
26:27for relaxation and rest
26:28when he was involved
26:29in these major debates
26:30in the British House of Commons
26:32in the 1830s
26:33and then in the 1840s
26:34when he was involved
26:35in the repeal campaign
26:37and the monster meetings,
26:38Derry Nan again
26:39was a place of refuge.
26:41He would always want
26:42to come back to Derry Nan
26:43to revive his soul.
26:46But he'd still work there.
26:48It was the original
26:49working from home.
26:50He'd spend one day
26:51on his legal business
26:53and his political business
26:54and every other day
26:56he would go out hunting
26:58but still there would be messengers
27:00who would come to him.
27:02And there's a portrait
27:03we have of Dan
27:04out on the hunting field
27:06with one of his beagles
27:08and there's a messenger
27:10there sitting down,
27:12exhausted,
27:13having delivered
27:14his papers to Dan.
27:16People would come to Derry Nan
27:17to visit O'Connell
27:19because O'Connell
27:20was an international celebrity.
27:21People wanted to meet him.
27:23There was a particular
27:25German prince, Muscow,
27:26who came and wrote a book
27:28about his experiences
27:29in Ireland
27:30and this spread Dan's fame
27:32throughout Europe
27:34and brought more people
27:36to him.
27:38He wanted Derry Nan
27:39to be a home
27:40worthy of a Gaelic chieftain.
27:42He wanted people
27:43to come to it
27:44and see that O'Connell
27:45was part of an ancient
27:46Irish family,
27:47that he was the leader
27:49of Ireland,
27:50that he was, in effect,
27:51the head of state
27:53and that, therefore,
27:54he would spend money
27:56to show off that image
27:57even if it meant
27:58going further into debt.
28:07In the drawing room,
28:08we have a beautiful table
28:09which was presented
28:10to Daniel O'Connell
28:11when he was in prison
28:12in 1844
28:14and the base
28:15of the table
28:16was all carved
28:17from one piece of oak
28:19and shows different
28:20Irish symbols.
28:24We also have
28:25the state chair
28:26which was carved
28:27by the same man
28:28which would show
28:29the stag's head
28:30which would be
28:31the family crest
28:32of the O'Connells
28:33and the family motto
28:35is carved into it
28:36Cael August Naarth
28:37which would mean
28:38wisdom and strength.
28:42In the drawing room
28:44we have a piano
28:45which Daniel O'Connell
28:46would have given
28:47to the nuns
28:48in Carr-Savine.
28:49Daniel O'Connell
28:50would have been
28:50responsible for bringing
28:51the presentation sisters
28:53to Carr-Savine
28:54as he wanted
28:54the local women
28:55of the area
28:56to be educated.
28:59In our study downstairs
29:01we have
29:01two dueling pistols.
29:04Daniel O'Connell
29:05was involved
29:05in a duel
29:06in 1815.
29:07At the time
29:08if you were challenged
29:09you had no option
29:10but to go with it.
29:12He was trying
29:13to change the status quo
29:14so if you were invested
29:15in the status quo
29:16you didn't want
29:17that changing.
29:18So they tried
29:20to do him down
29:20they tried to
29:21belittle him
29:23at one stage
29:24they manoeuvred him
29:26into fighting a duel
29:28with a man called
29:29Dastair
29:29who was a crack shot
29:31one of the best shots
29:32in the British army.
29:34And Daniel O'Connell
29:35would have aimed low
29:36so it was only to wound
29:38but unfortunately
29:39he must have
29:40hit an artery
29:40and the man bled to death
29:42and died
29:43the following day.
29:45And Daniel O'Connell
29:46would always have worn
29:47a glove on his right hand
29:48when he received communion
29:50as he felt
29:51he had blood
29:51on his hands.
29:52Of course
29:53his great triumph
29:54was the winning
29:54of Catholic emancipation
29:56of civil rights
29:57for Catholics
29:57in 1829.
29:59But in his younger years
30:01he pretty much
30:02lost his faith.
30:03But then
30:04following his marriage
30:05to Mary
30:05following the killing
30:06of a man called
30:07Dastair
30:08in a duel
30:09in 1815
30:10O'Connell
30:11returned to his faith
30:12and as the years
30:14went by
30:14he became increasingly
30:16devout
30:16and increasingly religious.
30:18In the 1830s
30:20O'Connell appealed
30:21to the Pope
30:21to be granted
30:22the privilege
30:22of a portable altar
30:24so that
30:25when he was on
30:25his journeys
30:26and his travels
30:27he would be able
30:28to have mass daily
30:29if he wanted
30:30with his priest
30:31and confessor.
30:32He built a chapel
30:33at Derrynan as well
30:34an oratory
30:35and the Pope
30:37granted an indulgence
30:38for people
30:38who prayed there
30:39and so O'Connell
30:41increasingly deviant
30:42as he grew older
30:43was able to have
30:44daily mass.
30:50The chapel
30:51that O'Connell
30:52constructed in 1844
30:53at Derrynan House
30:55was greatly influenced
30:57by the architecture
30:58of Ahamore Abbey.
31:00The ruins
31:01of the nearby abbey
31:03date from the 10th century
31:04but the monastic
31:05settlement here
31:06is thought to have
31:07been founded
31:07several centuries earlier.
31:11The graveyard
31:12on Abbey Island
31:13was used
31:13as the O'Connell's
31:14graveyard
31:15for at least
31:16three centuries
31:16and is the resting
31:18place of the remains
31:19of Daniel O'Connell's
31:20wife Mary
31:21his uncle Huntingcap
31:23and his grandparents.
31:27It would have been
31:28Daniel O'Connell's
31:29wish to have been
31:29buried at Derrynan
31:30also
31:31but the people of Ireland
31:32wanted to honour him
31:34the family were asked
31:35and the decision
31:36were made
31:36that he'd be buried
31:37in our capital city
31:38which was also
31:39quite fitting
31:40as Daniel O'Connell
31:41would have founded
31:42the graveyard
31:43in Glasnevin
31:43he wanted a graveyard
31:44for people of
31:45all religion
31:46and no religion
31:47for everybody
31:48to be together.
31:53The grounds
31:54around Derrynan House
31:56were developed
31:57with care
31:57by several generations
31:58of the O'Connell family.
32:02This 1896
32:03Ordnance Survey map
32:04which refers to the house
32:06as Derrynan Abbey
32:07shows the extent
32:09of the gardens
32:10laid out
32:10to the north
32:11of the house.
32:14It's just
32:15a calm
32:16and peaceful place.
32:22We are in quite a sheltered valley
32:25because we have the oak woods behind us
32:28and the mountains as well
32:29but we are exposed to seagales
32:32from the southwest
32:33which is opposite the house there
32:35out on the dune
32:36so we do get salt burn
32:38at times.
32:40People often say
32:41it has almost like
32:42a tropical effect
32:44so it's quite extravagant growth
32:47especially in greenery
32:49so ferns
32:50and trees
32:51and shrubs
32:51so it has that special feeling
32:54I think
32:54that people often comment on.
33:13If you begin at the house
33:14and come up
33:15through the gardens
33:16there'd be examples there
33:18of Canary Island plants
33:19like the Echeon
33:20Pininana
33:21which is a giant
33:22fibres
33:23a bugloss
33:24it grows for a year or two
33:25and then
33:26it throws up a big flower spike
33:28and dies.
33:29They're very good for bees
33:30and there's a Madeira
33:32foxglove shrub
33:34which is the national flower
33:35of Madeira.
33:36One of the trees
33:37on the way up
33:38is this kangaroo apple
33:39it's a member
33:40of the potato family
33:41it flowers heavily
33:42and then
33:42the fruits are
33:44an orange apple
33:45which is either
33:47depending
33:47which expert you speak to
33:49is edible and good
33:50or highly poisonous.
33:52And then you come up here
33:54into the main garden
33:55which is where the old
33:57vegetable and fruit
33:58were grown in the past
33:59and that leads on up
34:01to the South American
34:02plant collection
34:03which is an interesting
34:05experiment we've done
34:06in conjunction
34:07with the botanic gardens
34:09in Scotland.
34:10We chose the South American
34:12plants because
34:13the fuchsia
34:14and escalonia
34:15all those plants
34:16do well here.
34:20Well at the summer house
34:22it was designed by
34:23General O'Connor himself
34:25and his idea was to have
34:27it as a place
34:28to escape to
34:29so that he could
34:30do his writing.
34:32Now we did get
34:35the ceiling
34:36replaced
34:37we also got
34:38old slate
34:38to go on it
34:39so
34:40but in the meantime
34:41it was discovered
34:42that there was
34:43ship art
34:44which is
34:45a distinct form
34:46of doodling
34:47that was done
34:47in the 1800s
34:49often by people
34:49who'd visit estates
34:51and that is
34:52on the walls.
34:59Derry Nan
35:00became a great
35:01symbol for O'Connell
35:02not only in his lifetime
35:03but afterwards.
35:05When Derry Nan
35:06was opened to the public
35:07by President
35:09Eamon de Valera
35:09de Valera spoke
35:11about how
35:111916
35:12and the War of Independence
35:13and Irish Independence
35:14would not have been possible
35:16if Daniel O'Connell
35:18had not raised
35:18a people
35:19who were on their knees
35:20and convinced them
35:22that they were
35:22more than slaves
35:23and I think that's why
35:25Daniel O'Connell
35:26deserves to be remembered
35:27as the great Irish leader
35:29the great Irish chieftain
35:31and indeed
35:32the great Irish liberator.
35:40While Derry Nan House
35:41is strongly associated
35:43with the man
35:43who passionately believed
35:45in political change
35:46without violence
35:47St. Enders Park
35:49in Rathfarnham
35:50is associated
35:51with a very different
35:52sort of revolutionary
35:53Patrick Pearce.
35:59Patrick Pearce
36:00is best known
36:01as a nationalist
36:02Republican
36:03political activist
36:04and revolutionary
36:05who was one of the leaders
36:07of the Easter Rising
36:08in 1916.
36:11But he was also
36:12a poet
36:13barrister
36:14and teacher
36:15and prior to the events
36:16of the rising
36:17Pearce's devotion
36:18to Irish culture
36:19and education
36:20would lead him
36:21to set up
36:22an innovative school
36:23St. Enders.
36:27The school's objective
36:28was to provide
36:29an elementary
36:30and secondary education
36:32distinctly Irish
36:33in complexion
36:34and bilingual
36:35in method
36:35which would create
36:37a new generation
36:38of Irish leaders
36:39for a new Ireland.
36:43Patrick Pearce
36:44was born in 1879
36:46in Dublin
36:47to an English father
36:48and an Irish mother.
36:50Patrick's father
36:51was a sculptor
36:52who moved to Ireland
36:53in search of work
36:54and set up a shop
36:55in Great Brunswick Street
36:57now known
36:58as Pearce Street.
37:01Pearce had a very
37:02interesting background
37:03because he had
37:04a sort of English
37:05Unitarian
37:06free-thinking father
37:07and an Irish mother
37:08who was from the country
37:10very much involved
37:11in folklore
37:13and mythologies
37:14and those kind of stories.
37:16She wasn't a native speaker
37:17but she was very interested
37:18in the Irish language.
37:19Patrick grew up
37:20with his brother Willie
37:21and two sisters.
37:23He was very interested
37:25in drama,
37:27in poetry,
37:27in the Irish language.
37:28He had been educated
37:29by the Christian brothers
37:30in Westland Row
37:31and corporal punishment
37:33was a big part
37:33of that education.
37:35When he was about
37:36at 19,
37:37he went to UCD
37:38to study law
37:39and he had originally
37:41thought about
37:41becoming a barrister
37:42and he did try
37:43one or two cases
37:44in the beginning
37:45but it wasn't for him.
37:46So there's a lot of factors
37:47that come together
37:48that make sense
37:49that Pearce would
37:50eventually become a teacher.
37:52So the performance
37:53aspect of the law,
37:55the Irish language,
37:56his schooling
37:57and then he began
37:58to write quite a lot
38:00for the Gaelic League
38:01newspapers
38:01and eventually
38:02he became the editor
38:03of a Gaelic League
38:04newspaper
38:05and he used that
38:06as a forum
38:06to discuss his ideas
38:08on education.
38:11Through his work
38:12for the Gaelic League,
38:14Pearce became convinced
38:15that the key
38:15to reviving the Irish language
38:17was education.
38:19For this purpose,
38:20in 1908,
38:21he set up
38:22his own school,
38:23St Enders,
38:24in Cullenswood House
38:25in Ranler, Dublin.
38:27As the school
38:28grew more popular
38:29and pupil numbers
38:30increased,
38:31a bigger property
38:32was needed
38:32and so St Enders
38:34moved to a building
38:35known as the Hermitage
38:36in Rathfarnham.
38:41Pearce's decision
38:42to relocate his school
38:43to the Hermitage
38:44was also motivated
38:45by the property's association
38:47with the Irish revolutionary
38:49Robert Emmett.
38:51Emmett is said
38:52to have frequently
38:53walked in the grounds
38:54in secret
38:54with his sweetheart,
38:56Sarah Curran,
38:57in the early 1800s.
38:58Pearce hoped
39:00that these historic associations
39:01would help his pupils
39:03to connect with the past
39:04and draw inspiration from it.
39:08There are many reasons
39:10why the school
39:11and education
39:12were of importance
39:13to him
39:14and to the Irish-speaking
39:15community generally.
39:17He felt very much
39:19that the boarding school ethos
39:20in Ireland,
39:21the schools
39:22where the elites
39:23did educate their children,
39:24the Catholic boarding schools
39:25like Clungos Wood
39:26or Blackwell College
39:27or Castlenock College
39:29or Rockwell,
39:29they didn't have
39:31a particular interest
39:31in promoting Irish language
39:33or culture.
39:34This bureaucratic system,
39:36what he later calls
39:37as the murder machine,
39:38puts students into
39:39a grinder
39:40or a crammer
39:41and it churns them out.
39:43They're alienated
39:44from their own culture,
39:45they can't speak
39:45their own language
39:46and actually all
39:47they're good for
39:48is for good jobs
39:49in the civil service
39:50and the British Empire.
39:51So he felt
39:52there was a deficit here.
40:00So when Pearce set up
40:01St. Andrews in 1908,
40:02he emphasizes
40:03the influence of home
40:05and because his mother
40:06was involved
40:07in the running
40:07of the school,
40:08etc.,
40:08he was very much
40:10able to promote this
40:11as kind of having
40:12a family-oriented ethos.
40:15Very anti-corporal punishment,
40:17very anti-of the kind
40:18of disciplinarian ideas
40:20that you might find
40:21in either British
40:21public school system
40:22or in other boarding schools.
40:26So in terms of balancing
40:27that kind of English
40:28public school system
40:29of educating the boys
40:31to be good citizens
40:32but putting them
40:33in this very nurturing,
40:35child-centered environment
40:37was quite radical, actually.
40:44They were able
40:45to learn Italian,
40:46they were taught Irish,
40:47they were taught English,
40:47they were taught
40:48all the usual subjects
40:49but they were also taught
40:50horticulture and gardening
40:51and sport
40:52and all kinds of activities,
40:54music, dancing, etc.
40:55That's why St Endis
40:56captures the imagination
40:57at a particular period
40:59in time
40:59because it appears to be
41:01or seems to be
41:02offering a template
41:03for what a truly Irish
41:05child-centered education
41:07could be.
41:09The way in which
41:10the boys were given
41:11kind of role models
41:12for action
41:13is a really interesting one.
41:15I mean, we might have
41:15difficulties with that nowadays
41:17but the idea of Cú Cullan
41:18as this kind of warrior poet
41:20of this person
41:21who spoke beautiful
41:22Irish and wrote poetry
41:23but also could, you know,
41:24kill people with his bare hands
41:26and that idea of believing
41:29and sacrifice
41:30and, you know, denial
41:32and self-reliance,
41:33all of those very imperial ideas,
41:35to be honest with you,
41:36I think that they have
41:38a lasting influence
41:38on the boys
41:39that went through those doors
41:40and they feel themselves
41:42very much when they're at St Endis
41:44that they are part
41:45of the next generation.
41:48They are the boy republic.
41:50I do think it's interesting, though,
41:52that given how much attention
41:55there often is
41:56to how devoted Pierce was
41:58and how Catholic
41:59and how kind of Irish
42:00that the school was,
42:02none of the past pupils
42:03went into the priesthood.
42:05and I think that's kind of interesting.
42:07They all went into lives
42:08of action and public service.
42:11So when they come out
42:13into the world,
42:13they have that confidence,
42:15they have that rootedness
42:17within the Irish language
42:18and Irish culture
42:19and Irish history.
42:20They have a sense of belonging
42:21and then when the nation state
42:23comes about,
42:24they have this real commitment
42:26to nation building
42:28and they show that
42:29by the work that they do
42:30and the lives that they lead
42:32after that.
42:35Although Pierce had been
42:36a politically moderate
42:38Home Rule supporter
42:39for most of his life,
42:40he came increasingly
42:41under the influence
42:42of members
42:43of the Irish Republican Brotherhood,
42:45a secret organisation
42:46devoted to achieving
42:48an independent Irish Republic
42:49by military means.
42:51Pierce was involved
42:52in secret plans
42:53for open rebellion
42:54in Dublin
42:55and St. Ender's
42:56was frequently used
42:58for clandestine meetings.
43:01Much of Pierce's
43:03fictional work
43:03from this time
43:04foreshadowed
43:06coming events
43:06with an emphasis
43:08on self-sacrifice
43:09and death
43:10and he thought it unlikely
43:12that he would survive
43:13the coming insurrection.
43:15On March 21st, 1916,
43:18the feast day
43:19of St. Ender,
43:20Pierce gathered past
43:22and present pupils
43:23of the school together
43:24to bid farewell.
43:27It was that morning
43:29there'd been a clash
43:31between the Irish volunteers
43:34and a crowd in Tullamore
43:36and a crowd in Tullamore.
43:37There may have been
43:38somebody injured
43:39but a peer spoke
43:41as if it were
43:42being the beginning.
43:44He said,
43:45blood has been shed
43:46this morning
43:46and blood will have
43:48to be shed
43:48before this country
43:51is free.
43:52He also said,
43:53which was his farewell,
43:54and I didn't notice
43:55it anyway at the time.
43:58St. Enders
43:59has been
44:00in existence
44:01for eight years.
44:03It may go on
44:04to 80 years,
44:06but its work
44:07is done.
44:09Patrick Pierce
44:10assumed the role
44:11of Commander-in-Chief
44:12and President
44:13of the Irish Republic
44:14on Easter Monday,
44:16the 24th of April,
44:171916,
44:19when an open rebellion
44:20was launched
44:21against British rule
44:22in Ireland.
44:24Following the seizure
44:25of the GPO in Dublin,
44:28Pierce read aloud
44:28the proclamation
44:29which established
44:30an Irish Republic.
44:33Pierce was one
44:34of the principal authors
44:35of this document
44:36and it reflected
44:38many of his ideals
44:39for an independent Ireland.
44:42After six days
44:43of fighting,
44:44heavy civilian casualties
44:45and great destruction
44:47of property,
44:48the order was issued
44:50to surrender.
44:52Pierce and 13
44:54other leaders,
44:55including his brother
44:56Willie,
44:57were court-martialed
44:58and sentenced to death.
45:00On the morning
45:01of the 3rd of May,
45:031916,
45:04Thomas Clark,
45:05Thomas MacDonough
45:07and Pierce himself
45:08were the first
45:09of the Irish rebels
45:10to be executed
45:11at Kilmainham Jail.
45:14So the consequences
45:16of 1916
45:16are quite dramatic
45:17for the school
45:18because there's
45:19Patrick Pierce,
45:20Willie Pierce,
45:21Thomas MacDonough
45:22who taught French
45:23at the school,
45:23Joseph Plunkett
45:24and Con Colbert
45:26who taught physical education
45:27were all involved
45:28and executed.
45:30So the school hierarchy
45:32was really kind of
45:33wiped out.
45:35Mrs Pierce is left
45:36in charge of the school
45:37with the sisters
45:39and they are not
45:40natural educators.
45:42It was plagued
45:43by financial difficulties.
45:45St. Daniel's
45:46had always been in debt.
45:47There's a civil war.
45:49where, you know,
45:50people aren't really
45:51as interested
45:51and as engaged
45:52in these ideas
45:53as much as they might
45:54have been previously.
45:56And so by 1935
45:58it closes its doors
45:59for the last time.
46:03Margaret Pierce,
46:04Patrick's mother,
46:05stated in her will
46:07that following the death
46:08of her daughter,
46:09St. Endes would be given
46:10to the nation
46:11and kept as a memorial
46:12to her sons,
46:14Patrick and Willie.
46:18In 1970,
46:20St. Endes was presented
46:21to the Irish state
46:22in a ceremony
46:23that included
46:24President Eamon de Valera
46:26who had fought with Pierce
46:27in the 1916 Rising.
46:30Following a period
46:31of restoration,
46:32the Pierce Museum
46:33opened at St. Endes
46:35in 1979.
46:39Pierce is a contentious figure.
46:41I think he's always
46:42kind of been recuperated
46:43to the Republican side
46:44to the anti-treaty side.
46:46I think the fact
46:47that his pupils
46:50were split evenly
46:51pro and anti-treaty
46:53suggests that
46:53it's much more complex
46:54than we think.
46:56And I think that goes
46:57for lots of ideas
46:59about Pierce generally.
47:01So there are people
47:01who thought
47:02he was a bloodthirsty,
47:05martyrdom,
47:05self-sacrifice,
47:07who was awful.
47:08It's that kind of rhetoric
47:10that we see
47:11that led into
47:12kind of sectarian violence,
47:14et cetera.
47:14And there are others
47:15who see him
47:17as being a more benign,
47:19you know,
47:20outdated,
47:20anachronistic figure.
47:23I think that St. Endes
47:24is a centre of soft power,
47:26not particularly necessarily
47:28in the figure of Pierce,
47:29but perhaps in the boys
47:30who went through its doors.
47:33Most of them
47:33stayed in Ireland.
47:34They went into academic life,
47:36into journalism,
47:37into the law,
47:38into the army,
47:41across all political spectrums
47:43and all kind
47:43of political beliefs.
47:46You know,
47:47there's a difference
47:47between power and influence.
47:49So I would see
47:50that the legacy
47:50is really about influence
47:52rather than power
47:53in the harder sense.
48:02For nine centuries,
48:04Britain sought to dominate Ireland
48:06from Dublin Castle.
48:07At Old Bridge,
48:09more than 300 years ago,
48:11power was bloodily transferred
48:13from a Catholic
48:13to a Protestant monarch,
48:15with far-reaching consequences
48:17for Ireland
48:18and Great Britain.
48:20from their power bases
48:22in Derry-Nan
48:23and Rathfarnham,
48:24using very different methods
48:25and separated
48:26by almost a century,
48:28Daniel O'Connell
48:29and Patrick Pierce
48:30fought back
48:32against British rule.
48:33These varied
48:34and remarkable sights
48:36bring the legacies
48:37of the past
48:38to life.
48:39in Derry-Nan
49:09of the world
49:09and their own
49:14with the West
49:14and sometimes
49:26as many as
49:26in Derry-Nan
49:26in Derry-Nan
49:26and Western
49:27and Western
49:27in Derry-Nan
49:29and Western
49:29in Derry-Nan
49:30with the State
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