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00:04Liguria
00:04Liguria, known the world over as the Italian Riviera,
00:07stretches for over 300 kilometers along the Mediterranean coast.
00:13Genoa, Portofino, Cinque Terre.
00:17These legendary names invite you to dream and roam.
00:21From prehistoric times to the Republic of Genoa,
00:24and even up to the heyday of the baby boom in the 1960s,
00:28Liguria has always been at the center of Italian history.
00:32Unspoilt nature, cultural heritage and expertise,
00:35Liguria offers a wealth of hidden treasures.
00:51It is bordered to the north by the Ligurian Alps,
00:54which form a natural frontier between France and Italy.
01:08From the mountain heights, rain and meltwater turn into impressive torrents.
01:17For centuries, this water has been captured and retained in large reserves.
01:22These basins of turquoise water offer refreshing swims far from the crowded coastal beaches.
01:30Descending from the mountain heights, picturesque little villages,
01:33sometimes only a few hundred meters away, border the road.
01:41These rivers flow down the valleys and empty into the Mediterranean.
01:45It is here on the border with France, in the municipality of Vintimiglia,
01:49that the Italian Riviera begins.
02:02In Latte, facing the sea, the Hanbury botanical gardens are a verdant haven of greenery.
02:17It all began in 1867, when Thomas Hanbury, a rich English entrepreneur,
02:22lost his heart to this region of the Mediterranean.
02:31Passionate about botany, Hanbury created an incredible garden on a hillside,
02:35with more than 7,000 plant species imported from all over the world.
02:52From an altitude of more than 100 meters and criss-crossed by many staircases,
02:57the gardens extend from the heights of the property to the sea.
03:04A huge variety of exotic flowers and a wonderful collection of forgotten citrus fruits,
03:10enhance the walkways with fragrances and colors through every season.
03:27Its many fountains are characteristic of the different architectural trends of the 19th century.
03:40Down below, under a neo-moorish pavilion, Hanbury and his wife are buried.
03:48The mausoleum is facing the Bay of Latte, a tomb with a sea view for eternity.
04:03Less than 30 kilometers away from the Hanbury botanical gardens is San Remo.
04:08Man has lived here since the Paleolithic age.
04:11Much later, in the 9th century, the town took its name from Saint Romulus,
04:15a hermit who lived and died in the heights of the town.
04:28Today, its shopping streets attract visitors from the world over.
04:33San Remo is also the home to the most famous cycling race in Italy,
04:37as well as a celebrated festival of Italian songs.
04:41One of the town's symbols is the Municipal Casino.
04:44Built in a majestic Art Nouveau style, it's the oldest and most elegant casino in Italy.
04:56The gambling rooms and slot machines are the casino's heart,
04:59but its sole is the prestigious Concert Hall.
05:07This theatre is home to a classical orchestra that performs weekly.
05:12Lawrence is an American orchestra conductor.
05:16He's come all the way from America to be part of the Italian music scene.
05:20I did not know there was a concert hall inside a casino before,
05:24so it's very special and unique.
05:26For me as an American to come conduct an Italian orchestra with an Italian soloist
05:32on all Italian music is a little bit intimidating.
05:44Leaving the coast for the heights of Liguria, we discover a surprising village.
05:51Built in the 13th century, Busana Vecchia is perched on a hilltop and overlooks San Remo.
06:06In 1887, a strong earthquake shook the region.
06:10A large part of the village was razed to the ground.
06:14Its two churches were partially destroyed.
06:20As most of the buildings had been severely damaged,
06:23the authorities decided to reconstruct the village elsewhere.
06:37Abandoned, the ruins looked destined for oblivion.
06:44The
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07:16But in the 1960s, during the hippie movement, artists from all over Europe came and settled in Busana Vecchia.
07:34Without electricity or running water, the community nevertheless grew and became a centre of the counterculture.
07:44There are many curious pursuits followed here, each one stranger than the next, such as this group of model trainmakers.
08:02But the real charm of this village is in crossing paths with the local artists.
08:15This talented painter has watched the village grow into a popular destination for tourists from all over the world.
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08:36Franco has lived here since the beginning. He has wonderful memories of it, and he loves sharing them.
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08:44In the beginning, only artists lived here. The idea was to have a village solely of artists and craftsmen.
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08:53We had one fundamental principle. We couldn't live off commerce.
08:58We couldn't sell anything that we hadn't made with our own hands.
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09:04And I just fell in love with this place. It was such a fantastic idea.
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09:10The streets were in terrible shape. They weren't even paved, but it was an ideal spot.
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09:25Not far away is the village of Toirano, and on either very hot days or on rainy days, it's the
09:31perfect place to go.
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09:35One of Italy's most beautiful cave sites is found here.
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09:40Located in the middle of a valley, the cave has been eroded by time.
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10:01Open to the public, it was accidentally discovered in 1950 by four village boys out for a stroll.
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10:14As you walk through the galleries, you can imagine just how the boys must have felt when they first made
10:19their incredible discovery.
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10:23The first gallery is the Basura Cave.
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10:27It contains prehistoric cave bear bones, as well as human hand and footprints over 12,000 years old.
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10:37Nearby, Chibel Cave contains fantastic concretions in the shape of nipples.
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10:45The cave of Santa Lucia, named after the Saint of Light, is a scintillating sight.
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10:51On the walls, aragonite crystals glitter like a thousand lights.
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11:20The Toirano caves are one of the region's most unique sights.
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11:25Only 15 kilometres away is Finel Borgo.
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11:29This medieval village is considered one of the most beautiful in Italy.
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11:35Here, nothing seems to have changed for centuries.
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12:01Porta Testa is one of the main gates to the town.
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12:05Today, the tower gives passersby the time of day.
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12:08But during the Middle Ages, it served as a gallows for those condemned to death.
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12:13Wandering through the tiny streets, you'll discover a labyrinth of small arches
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12:17montages linking the buildings.
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12:19This typically regional masonry dates from äraival times.
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12:27On San Biagio Square, the church of the same name is not to be missed.
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12:32Its facade, unfinished since the 19th century, gives the church the look of a building under siege.
12:40The Strada Romana follows the fortifications through the higher part of the village to
12:45the gate of San Giovanni fort.
12:54The cannons and arrow slits are reminders that Final Borgo was sold to the Spanish crown
12:59at the end of the 16th century.
13:02The fortress gave the Spanish direct access to Milan.
13:05They no longer had to pass through Genoa and therefore no longer had to pay the neighbouring
13:10republic any taxes.
13:17Today the fort is a little haven of peace and there's an outstanding view of the village
13:22and the sea.
13:28Our next stop is Albisola, the ceramic capital.
13:32This unique town has successfully combined cultural heritage and modernity.
13:41On the sea front, just look down to see some very original creations.
13:52This is a local skill that's been carried on for centuries.
13:59This is the workshop of one of the oldest craftsmen in the town.
14:02His shop displays his most beautiful pieces.
14:25You need only step into the next room to discover the secrets of this legendary workshop.
14:43Once they're painted, the pieces are placed in the kiln.
14:46The heat then fixes the colours to their expected hues.
15:14Since the 19th century, this former stable has been a world-famous centre of ceramics.
15:20On the walls there are drawings by Lucio Fontana, a master ceramic artist.
15:26These works are the indelible traces of a rich past.
15:34For over 50 years, the Pudgy brothers have been working in this workshop.
15:39Silvia, the owner's wife, shares an enduring passion for this work.
15:47I'm probably the only professional woman here.
15:49I started when I was little.
15:52I like working with my hands, and clay is something that you can manipulate.
15:56You can shape it in your own way, any way you like.
16:01You're the one in charge.
16:02You're the one who controls the clay.
16:04I create everything with my hands.
16:07It's wonderful work, and it's extremely satisfying.
16:15Many towns on the Italian Riviera still perpetuate traditional crafts.
16:20Perched high in the Ligurian mountains,
16:22Altairi has been known since the Middle Ages for glass making.
16:39Although this craft has been somewhat forgotten,
16:42local know-how is still preserved here thanks to a few dedicated glass makers.
17:04It's a pleasure, a real passion, to watch glass being made.
17:08There's a touch of magic in it.
17:10I like making chandeliers, flowers and bottles, as well as small animals.
17:24Vanessa, who works nearby, has specialised in engraving glass.
17:28She's been doing it since she was very young.
17:31I started coming to this workshop when I was a child.
17:34It belonged to my father and mother.
17:38I used to spend all my time watching them work,
17:41so that's how my passion was born.
17:52For me, it's like transmitting an emotion that's deep inside me,
17:57like someone who paints a painting or composes music or sings.
18:04For an engraver, engraving a good human or a good animal is very difficult.
18:09It's difficult to show the muscle definition.
18:16I use the wheel like a pen.
18:18It's not just a decoration.
18:20It's an expression of my personality, of my land.
18:32The capital of Liguria, Genoa, is by far the largest city on the entire Riviera.
18:38Economic heart of the region, Genoa also has an exceptional cultural heritage.
18:46The historic heart of the old town reveals the past of what was once one of the most important republics
18:51the world has ever known.
18:56The fountains on Ferrari Square are a refreshing stop.
19:03Soprano Gate was part of Genoa's ramparts.
19:06Not far away is Christopher Columbus's tiny little house.
19:16Nearby, the Doge's Palace is one of the most important cultural centres in Italy.
19:32Less than 300 metres away, San Lorenzo Cathedral is one of the city's most interesting monuments.
19:39Its facade, with three portals, tells of many centuries of history.
19:45The alternating layers of grey and white stone is characteristic of Ligurian churches.
19:57Conclusion
19:58The French
20:19The French
20:21Above the central portal, Christ is awakening and emerging from the tomb behind him.
20:29Lower down, a frieze represents the martyrdom of St Lorenzo, from whom the cathedral takes its name.
20:37On each side of the central portal, the story of Mary and Jesus is told in a series of engravings.
20:48On the right of the entrance door, a little dog is hiding, carved into the stone.
20:54According to legend, if you pat him, you'll return to Genoa.
20:59A fresco in the central nave of the cathedral recounts the story of St Lorenzo and of the Roman Emperor
21:06Valerian,
21:06who, with a wave of his imperial hand, is ordering the saint's death.
21:27From the cathedral roof, you get one of the best views of Genoa.
21:45You can see as far as the lighthouse overlooking the commercial port.
21:50The busy modern port is without any real interest, but a visit to the old port is a must.
22:01A very special elevator allows you to discover a 360-degree view of the city.
22:17Wind turbines add a futuristic touch to this place.
22:26From the beginning of spring until autumn, a number of events take place on the square below.
22:36The old port has become a very trendy district to go to in the evening.
22:41At nightfall, the roof terraces of the former warehouses turn into fashionable restaurants.
22:50Overlooking the ocean liners, they are popular spots to discover the region's culinary specialities.
23:09Morning is the best time to explore the streets of the old town.
23:12This is where the ship's crews rested between their voyages on the high seas.
23:20In olden days, staying near the port allowed them to get supplies easily, even if they had to live in
23:26very crowded conditions.
23:31Some streets are so narrow that you could almost pass the parmesan cheese to your neighbours.
23:43Local architecture has taken certain liberties, such as this church, whose bell tower has been placed on the roof of
23:50a nearby building.
23:52You have to take a corridor and climb several storeys up to reach the bells.
24:09A few streets away is the city's largest covered market.
24:16The building itself is quite ordinary, but the allure of the stalls and the evocative smells certainly do heighten your
24:23appetites.
24:27Italy is one of the largest producers of cheese in the world.
24:33Parmesan is most certainly the most famous of them.
24:46In all, the country produces more than 300 varieties of cheese.
25:01But Italian cuisine is especially famous for its pasta recipes.
25:13Short ones and long ones, dried ones and fresh.
25:18There are more than 1,000 varieties.
25:21They're usually accompanied by sauces, and the most well-known of them all comes from Genoa.
25:29Genoese pesto sauce.
25:33Marco, this one's good, is an expert in this green sauce.
25:37Really good, that the whole world adores.
25:45You take your mortar everywhere you go?
25:47Yes, I bring it whenever I can.
25:50With friends, Marco organizes the world championship of pesto.
25:55The competition starts with qualifying rounds.
25:59I was in San Francisco two weeks ago.
26:02I'm going to Geneva and Madrid soon.
26:04I've already done Paris.
26:08Bye.
26:10Bye.
26:20It may not seem difficult, but making Genoese pesto is an art in itself.
26:26The most important thing is having the right ingredients.
26:29Basil is the key ingredient.
26:31It's got to have the right texture, without any minty taste or anything.
26:35The choice of the oil and the parmesan is also very important.
26:39It also takes skill as well as experience and tradition.
26:42And before you start, you have to know what flavor you want.
26:46The secret of pesto is transmitted down from generation to generation.
26:50While mothers and grandmothers were busy in the kitchen,
26:53the children would play with the mortar and pestle.
26:56It's something embedded in our memory, like an old song that you remember tenderly years later.
27:01It's something that fundamentally is important to us.
27:09About 40 kilometers from Genoa, hidden in the Ligurian highlands,
27:13is a spectacular fortress built into the rock face of the mountain.
27:19Two impressive rocky spurs form solid lateral ramparts.
27:26The facade is composed of a few rare openings, reinforcing the citadel's impregnable aspect.
27:34The Castello de la Pietra is in the heart of the Antola Natural Regional Park.
27:39Climbing to the top of the fort is a strenuous hike.
27:43The origins of this fortress are obscure.
27:46It is known, however, that hermits once lived here.
27:49The earliest written evidence relating to the castle dates from the beginning of the 13th century.
27:55Commanding the entire valley, this stronghold was an important observation post for the Republic of Genoa.
28:06In 1579 brigands captured the fortress and made it their hideout, and from there they plundered the entire region.
28:24A trip to Liguria is not complete without a visit to the Castello de la Pietra.
28:29As much for its landscapes as for its history.
28:38Further east along the coast, Camoglia is undoubtedly one of the most picturesque villages in the entire region.
28:53Located on the Golfo Paradiso, Camoglia was originally a small fishing village.
28:58The name of the town refers to this former activity.
29:02After a fishing trip at sea, the men returned home to the Casa della Moglia, which means House of the
29:08Wives in Italian.
29:10With time, the name was shortened to Camoglia.
29:22According to legend, the women of the village painted the facades of the buildings in vivid colours,
29:28so that their husbands could locate the port more easily on foggy mornings.
29:51Its port, its small streets and alleyways all give the town an unforgettable romantic charm.
30:04Lovers declare their devotion with these small cardboard hearts that they attach to fishing nets,
30:10and there they remain tied on all year long.
30:16From June to September, the village only has 5,000 inhabitants.
30:25And this is generally considered the best time to discover the real Camoglia.
30:34But whatever the season, you must take your time.
30:38Explore the many terraces and savour the ever so gentle ambiance.
30:45We leave Camoglia by the sea and head towards San Frutuoso Bay.
30:50Andrea is a diving instructor who takes divers to the most beautiful spots on the Riviera.
30:57Isabella Mafi is an acclaimed underwater photographer.
31:01She's come to photograph the bay for a well-known magazine.
31:11San Frutuoso Bay is emblematic.
31:15Its beauty is mystical.
31:20For me, it's one of the most beautiful places in the world.
31:34Underwater, it's full of small red coral near the cliffs.
31:40As for combining the protection of nature and tourism,
31:43this is the best protected marine reserve that I know of anywhere.
32:01From the very first moment, the spectacle is stunning.
32:07The clarity of the water is reminiscent of the Red Sea and the Caribbean.
32:13Here are the red corals that Isabella likes so much.
32:22Even beginners can admire the many coral reefs without difficulty.
32:29Teeming with fish, the waters offer an extraordinary sight.
32:33And whales and dolphins breed here.
32:39Much of the coastline and the adjacent seabed are protected areas
32:43and are part of the Portofino Regional Nature Park.
32:53But what most divers from around the world come to see in the San Frutuoso Bay
32:58lies hidden more than 10 metres under the surface.
33:01The Christ of the Abyss.
33:05Placed here in 1954 in memory of a diver who died in the bay,
33:10this statue has become a major attraction.
33:16For the more audacious divers, a simple mask and pair of fins
33:20allows them to approach this underwater statue of Christ.
33:37Back on the surface, we now head to one of the most prestigious yachting events in the world.
33:46Every summer, Portofino hosts a show of the most luxurious and expensive boats in the world.
33:53Mooring even a small boat in this tiny and charming cove can easily cost several tens of thousands of euros
33:59a year.
34:04After visiting the San Martino and San Giorgio churches, as well as the Castello Brown,
34:12most visitors end up on the small square near the port.
34:19Here, people meet for a ristretto coffee, or a spritz, a popular cocktail.
34:33Portofino's nature park covers 1,500 hectares.
34:39The dense vegetation and the scenery are breathtaking.
34:45There are 80 kilometres of marked trails along the coast, a real paradise for hikers.
35:138 kilometres away, the town of Rapallo is celebrating.
35:17Every year, at the beginning of July, the village observes the feast of Our Lady of Montalegro.
35:25The crowd gathers around the port and admires the spectacular fireworks displays that last several days and nights.
35:43The town of Pyrotechnics
35:44Along this kilometre-long stretch of beach, pyrotechnics companies light firecrackers that explode noisily.
35:50They commemorate a fratricidal war between the inhabitants of the region, which took place in the mid-16th century.
36:01For the unsuspecting tourist,
36:14a day on the beach might just prove a little noisier than expected.
36:46SCREAMING
36:53In order to better understand this celebration, take the cable car to the sanctuary at the
36:58top of the town, to Notre Dame de Montalegro.
37:25According to legend, on the 2nd of July, 1557, the Virgin appeared before a local farmer
37:31from Rapallo.
37:40The Virgin told the farmer that she wanted a sanctuary built on the spot.
37:46But the villagers, too occupied by war, didn't listen to the farmer.
37:51The Virgin then decided to leave a holy relic as an indication.
37:58She caused a sacred spring of fresh water to emerge from the dry ground, a spring that
38:03believers still use to this day.
38:08The inhabitants then made peace with one another, and together they built the sanctuary of Notre
38:12Dame de Montalegro.
38:16And it's to commemorate this event that firework displays are held at Rapallo every year.
38:27A group of friends ride at full speed down the road that leads from Rapallo to Chiavari.
38:36They're members of a Vespa club, an association that unites all lovers of this world-famous
38:46scooter brand.
38:48Alexandro is on the white scooter.
38:50For him, Vespa is also a family affair.
38:54This is my grandfather's Vespa.
38:56He was a doctor and he used it to visit his patients.
39:02Afterwards, he gave it to my aunt, and she used it for years.
39:05She had a lot of fun on this Vespa when she was a teenager, and then I decided to take
39:10it over.
39:11I found it in the garden, and I decided to restore it.
39:15And now it's my turn to have some fun.
39:20It's not just riding it.
39:22Even changing gears is a pleasure.
39:25And when I hear the sound of the motor, it's a very special feeling.
39:46It's a symbol of la dolce vita, the Italian way of life in the 50s and 60s.
39:53It's a vision of an Italy where everything was beautiful, when people were carefree, when
39:58people rode without helmets, with the wind blowing through their hair.
40:16This road leads to Sestri Levante.
40:21Set on a picturesque promontory separated by sea cliffs, Sestri Levante is an enchanting
40:26peninsula between two beaches.
40:30On one side is the Bay of Fables.
40:33It was given this name by Hans Christian Andersen, the Danish writer, on the day he arrived here.
40:48A fable festival is held here every day in his memory.
40:56The Bay of Silence is on the other side of the peninsula.
41:01The pastel coloured houses brighten up the entire beach and the calm and beauty of this
41:06small fishing port make it an unforgettable place.
41:15We head now for the most well-known destination on the entire Italian Riviera, the Cinque Terre.
41:22Cinque Terre is composed of five small idyllic villages classified as a UNESCO World Heritage
41:28Site and incorporated into a national park with the same name.
41:34The most western village is Monte Rosso al Mare.
41:38It's the largest and most frequented beach on the Italian Riviera, and from June until
41:42September it's often difficult to find enough space to lay down your towel.
41:48You can swim here either before or after visiting the national park.
41:52Despite intense development, Monte Rosso has managed to retain a medieval character, with
41:58its casetori or tower houses.
42:17The second village, Vernazza, is undoubtedly the most picturesque.
42:21With its ruined Romanesque fortifications, its tiny port and its original Genoese buildings,
42:28the village is truly authentic.
42:49We reach Corniglia by train.
42:51It's the highest and least accessible of the five villages.
42:55The railway station below the village is on the coast.
43:00However, you have to climb a long flight of steps to reach the centre of the village.
43:12But once at the top, the effort is well worth it.
43:17The beauty of the village, still intact, is reminiscent of the small villages in the nearby Alps.
43:40At the top of the Via Fescai, the view of the coast is breathtaking.
43:53Manarola, the fourth village, is the oldest of the five and has existed since antiquity.
44:05Music playing...
44:07So, let's go.
44:08So, let's go.
44:37On two kilometers on both sides of the village, there are paths along the cliffs, hugging the coastline and crossing
44:42over many of its small coves.
44:44The path of love is so called because it leads straight to Rio Maggiore, the most romantic of the five
44:49villages.
45:00This former fishing village was probably founded in the 8th century.
45:03With its colorful array of houses and its beautiful dry stone walls, Rio Maggiore is an idyllic setting, particularly for
45:11lovers who come from around the world.
45:13So, let's go.
45:44Luciano de Batti, who grew up in Cinque Terre, is now a winemaker.
45:50He thinks that part of the region's charm is its typical Mediterranean landscape, with its dry stone walls and its
45:57terraced vineyards.
45:59The region has become an international tourist center because the land has been worked manually for centuries.
46:05This place was fashioned by the hand of man.
46:08It's a tradition that's transmitted from father to son.
46:11Here we work for passion, not for money.
46:14This is the most important tool we have.
46:17It's called a rampi, and it's never been replaced by modern technology.
46:21Here, time has stopped.
46:23Working in the vineyards of Cinque Terre is exhausting.
46:27It's blood, sweat and tears, but satisfaction and passion are the marvelous reward of our work.
46:36Here, you're at peace with the world.
46:46Further to the east is Porto Venere, also classified by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.
47:07The town gate, just behind the port, was built in 1113.
47:11This rampart was the first line of defense against invasion.
47:17Nearby are small shopping streets and the emblem of the town, Doria Castle.
47:22The castle was once the residence of a wealthy family, the Doria's.
47:27Just below, you can see one of the 33 sea caves in the area.
47:31The famous English poet Lord Byron liked to swim here,
47:35so much so that one of the caves, Byron's Grotto, is named after him.
47:40The San Pietro Church is near the castle.
47:44During Roman times, people came here to venerate the gods.
47:48This rocky promontory later evolved into the name of Porto Venere, the veneration gate.
47:56From the church, there is a 360-degree panorama.
48:01On one side, the Gulf of La Spezia can be seen.
48:04On the other side, the coastline with Cinque Terre in the distance,
48:08a captivating place lost between the sea and the mountain.
48:18From the port, there is a ferry service to Palmaria Island.
48:34The island has always been the scene of invasions and naval battles.
48:39Even today, you can see bunkers from the Second World War.
48:43But it's the many caves, such as the Wolf's Cave, that give the island its real charm.
48:48Or this volcanic cave, the only source of fresh water on the island.
49:03In the middle of the bay, a statue of the Virgin Mary warns ships of a dangerous rock.
49:09Called the Devil's Daughter, or the Star of the Sea,
49:12the statue guards over the island of Palmaria and the bay of Porto Venere.
49:20This is the historic center built by the Republic of Genoa.
49:27It's always a pleasure to see it.
49:31On some days, you can see the islands of the Tuscan archipelago,
49:34and on the other side, all of Liguria.
49:37It's a real pleasure showing them to visitors, and I just love doing it.
50:03There's a man who knows this very special place well.
50:07Bernardo is captain and guide on one of the boats, giving trips around the island.
50:14Back on dry land, this footpath offers a splendid walk.
50:19From the cliff top, there's an exceptional view of Porto Venere.
50:24And here we end our journey in Liguria.
50:27This Italian Riviera rightfully celebrated for its unrivaled beauty since ancient times.
50:33sponsored by C couples.
50:34C couples.
50:45And here we end our journey in Liguria tonight,
50:47I know.
50:47It looks like a wallop.
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