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What does the global revival of denim mean for Lesotho
DW (English)
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17 hours ago
In Lesotho, designer Khotso Koena is reviving denim the local way. He is partnering with seasoned tailors to craft fashion that is proudly rooted, yet globally rated.
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00:00
Denim is being reclaimed by global black icons as a symbol of cultural pride and by top brands
00:10
as a timeless staple. But what does this global reawakening mean for Lesotho, a nation steeped
00:16
in denim production? And how is one young entrepreneur reshaping its legacy into a bold
00:22
new future? For too long our denim has gone out, one by others. It's time for us to wear our own
00:28
story. 22-year-old Hotza Buena from Maseru Lesotho is the founder of Savvy Jeans. In a country
00:36
that has been a major global producer of denim, how is Hotza tapping into local skills and
00:41
a renewed global consciousness to forge a new path for Lesotho's textile industry? My connection
00:48
to denim actually arises from the fact that we as Masutu produce denim and for the past
00:54
decades we've been producing it for other nations. In the early 2000s, the Sutu emerged
01:00
as Africa's denim powerhouse, producing over 26 million pairs of jeans annually, with 98%
01:08
exported to the US. It's this legacy that drives Hotza, who's channeling national pride and economic
01:16
purpose into Savvy Jeans, a brand rooted in Basutu identity and ambition.
01:21
I think growing up I've always believed that I could become whatever I wanted to become,
01:26
although by then it did not make sense to a lot of people. So I've always told my friends that I
01:32
want to be a fashion enthusiast and I want to do that for a living, like throughout. So they did love
01:37
and I think things like that really like pushed me harder, you know. So that's when I started the whole
01:44
thing and started thinking about it. Lesotho's denim industry boasts a skilled workforce shaped by years of
01:51
producing for global giants like Levi's and Wrangler. Chorzo, Savvy Jeans's founder and lead designer,
01:58
taps into this expertise. But building his own brand hasn't been easy. From sourcing quality materials
02:04
to securing production space, Chorzo has faced logistical hurdles that test both creativity and resilience.
02:11
Our production model was actually developed based on what we had when it started. So I basically had
02:18
few ideas and, you know, approached few tailors who understood where I come from, what I actually
02:23
want to bring to life. So they executed that and that's how it started. When I designed these pieces,
02:28
I always consider no functionality and also may try and make fashionable pieces enough so that one can
02:35
wear for whatever occasion that they want to go. So you see we wanted to bring more color into the denim,
02:40
you know. So this is actually a collaboration between Temba and I. As denim is reclaimed globally
02:47
as a symbol of black identity and with Lesotho's legacy as a major exporter, the rise of a Mosotho-owned
02:54
brand like Savvy Jeans feels both timely and necessary. Chorzo's work reflects a broader shift
03:01
towards local ownership, cultural pride and a reimagined future for Lesotho's textile industry.
03:08
To see brands like Savvy coming into the place and owning a bit of the market share, it's something
03:16
that's quite impressive and something that I can also encourage for local production of as many brands.
03:27
The same way we say Lesotho has quite a reputation when it comes to textiles and garment industry, I think
03:36
we should have the same reputation when it comes to fashion in general by seeing many brands coming
03:43
out of Lesotho. For decades, Lesotho has quietly powered the global denim industry, producing for
03:49
major US and European brands. But heavy reliance on a few international clients and shifting trade
03:55
policies has exposed deep vulnerabilities, putting the livelihoods of up to 40,000 Basotho textile workers at risk.
04:03
Every other countries, especially the overseas countries, have been saying, okay, can we produce
04:09
also from Lesotho, especially because they are known for producing high quality products. So well, we are
04:17
comfortable, we are ready to do that because the government is also in support of us.
04:22
The skills and expertise in denim production are deeply embedded within Lesotho's workforce. The challenge now is
04:29
to pivot this existing talent towards creating locally owned and branded products that can capture
04:35
the regional and potentially global appeal. My dream is for like, for Savvy to actually grow beyond just
04:44
producing fashion, but actually build skills and to the youth to actually mentor them so that we can
04:51
channel our creativity into something that contributes to the economy.
04:54
Koso Kwenna stands at the forefront of a denim revival rooted in local pride. By fusing Basotho
05:01
craftsmanship with global awareness, he's pushing for more self-reliant and creative future.
05:08
His journey signals a shift towards ownership, innovation, and a new generation shaping the Basotho's narrative.
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