Lesotho's Savvy Jeans at forefront of denim's global revival

DW (English)

In Lesotho, designer Khotso Koena is reviving denim the local way. He is partnering with seasoned tailors to craft fashion that is proudly rooted, yet globally rated.

Transcript

00:00Denim is being reclaimed by global black icons as a symbol of cultural pride and by top brands

00:10as a timeless staple. But what does this global reawakening mean for Lesotho, a nation steeped

00:16in denim production? And how is one young entrepreneur reshaping its legacy into a bold

00:22new future? For too long our denim has gone out, one by others. It's time for us to wear our own

00:28story. 22-year-old Hotza Buena from Maseru Lesotho is the founder of Savvy Jeans. In a country

00:36that has been a major global producer of denim, how is Hotza tapping into local skills and

00:41a renewed global consciousness to forge a new path for Lesotho's textile industry? My connection

00:48to denim actually arises from the fact that we as Masutu produce denim and for the past

00:54decades we've been producing it for other nations. In the early 2000s, the Sutu emerged

01:00as Africa's denim powerhouse, producing over 26 million pairs of jeans annually, with 98%

01:08exported to the US. It's this legacy that drives Hotza, who's channeling national pride and economic

01:16purpose into Savvy Jeans, a brand rooted in Basutu identity and ambition.

01:21I think growing up I've always believed that I could become whatever I wanted to become,

01:26although by then it did not make sense to a lot of people. So I've always told my friends that I

01:32want to be a fashion enthusiast and I want to do that for a living, like throughout. So they did love

01:37and I think things like that really like pushed me harder, you know. So that's when I started the whole

01:44thing and started thinking about it. Lesotho's denim industry boasts a skilled workforce shaped by years of

01:51producing for global giants like Levi's and Wrangler. Chorzo, Savvy Jeans's founder and lead designer,

01:58taps into this expertise. But building his own brand hasn't been easy. From sourcing quality materials

02:04to securing production space, Chorzo has faced logistical hurdles that test both creativity and resilience.

02:11Our production model was actually developed based on what we had when it started. So I basically had

02:18few ideas and, you know, approached few tailors who understood where I come from, what I actually

02:23want to bring to life. So they executed that and that's how it started. When I designed these pieces,

02:28I always consider no functionality and also may try and make fashionable pieces enough so that one can

02:35wear for whatever occasion that they want to go. So you see we wanted to bring more color into the denim,

02:40you know. So this is actually a collaboration between Temba and I. As denim is reclaimed globally

02:47as a symbol of black identity and with Lesotho's legacy as a major exporter, the rise of a Mosotho-owned

02:54brand like Savvy Jeans feels both timely and necessary. Chorzo's work reflects a broader shift

03:01towards local ownership, cultural pride and a reimagined future for Lesotho's textile industry.

03:08To see brands like Savvy coming into the place and owning a bit of the market share, it's something

03:16that's quite impressive and something that I can also encourage for local production of as many brands.

03:27The same way we say Lesotho has quite a reputation when it comes to textiles and garment industry, I think

03:36we should have the same reputation when it comes to fashion in general by seeing many brands coming

03:43out of Lesotho. For decades, Lesotho has quietly powered the global denim industry, producing for

03:49major US and European brands. But heavy reliance on a few international clients and shifting trade

03:55policies has exposed deep vulnerabilities, putting the livelihoods of up to 40,000 Basotho textile workers at risk.

04:03Every other countries, especially the overseas countries, have been saying, okay, can we produce

04:09also from Lesotho, especially because they are known for producing high quality products. So well, we are

04:17comfortable, we are ready to do that because the government is also in support of us.

04:22The skills and expertise in denim production are deeply embedded within Lesotho's workforce. The challenge now is

04:29to pivot this existing talent towards creating locally owned and branded products that can capture

04:35the regional and potentially global appeal. My dream is for like, for Savvy to actually grow beyond just

04:44producing fashion, but actually build skills and to the youth to actually mentor them so that we can

04:51channel our creativity into something that contributes to the economy.

04:54Koso Kwenna stands at the forefront of a denim revival rooted in local pride. By fusing Basotho

05:01craftsmanship with global awareness, he's pushing for more self-reliant and creative future.

05:08His journey signals a shift towards ownership, innovation, and a new generation shaping the Basotho's narrative.

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