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Build for Off Road Season 2 Episode 9 C10 Twin Turbo Wiring
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00:00On Build for Off-Road, we got our C10 over here at DVR High Performance.
00:04The HP Tudor guys are going to spend some time on their computer going beep, bop, boop, beep.
00:08And we're going to see how much power that motor can make.
00:11500.
00:15Our classic C10 pre-runner is back.
00:18This is literally my dream truck.
00:21When I was like 15 years old, the cool kid in school had one of these classic C10 trucks.
00:27Now his was all lowered down on the ground with big wide tires.
00:30But I think it's cooler to have it jacked up with this awesome long travel suspension.
00:36Now we've already done a pile of work to this truck.
00:38It's sitting on this 03 Silverado chassis.
00:41It's got the long travel kit, got coilover bypasses up front.
00:44It's got the super bed cage in the back.
00:47I've already built out the bedsides to give me extra room for my tires and I've trimmed the front fenders.
00:52But this bad boy's got a date with the dyno.
00:55So our goal today is to finish up everything we need to get this engine, drivetrain, everything ready to back up on the dyno.
01:02And see what kind of power our twin turbo LS makes.
01:07Make sure it's not too...
01:09Whoa!
01:11Okay, back down.
01:14That scared Ian!
01:15Oh yeah!
01:25There we go!
01:26The transmission that is in our donor chassis is a 4L60 or 4L65E.
01:35It kind of depends on the year.
01:36Now the 65 is basically means the gross vehicle weight that the transmission is designed to handle.
01:42So a 4L60 or 4L65E is designed for a vehicle that weighs around 6,500 pounds.
01:49But that's not really what we're worried about.
01:52The reality is the 4L60s and the 4L65s, they're good transmissions.
01:56But when you start pouring a bunch of power through them, they do have a tendency to fail.
02:01We're going to upgrade this truck with a whole new transmission.
02:04We're going to be changing the model completely.
02:06We're going to be going with the 4L80.
02:08And just like the name implies, obviously it's designed around an 8,000 pound vehicle.
02:12But the internals of the 80 are what make it a lot stronger.
02:15But before the new transmission can go into the truck, there are a few things that we have to change.
02:23Modern engines like our LS, they use a lot of one-time use fasteners or torque to yield fasteners.
02:31So whenever I rebuild them, I like to replace those with good quality bolts like these ARP bolts.
02:36Now ARP bolts, they are designed to replace a factory bolt but increase its strength.
02:42They're 20% stronger than grade 8.
02:43The threads are rolled after heat treatment.
02:46And they have all the bolts available for popular applications.
02:50When I rebuilt this engine, I put ARP head studs in it.
02:53That means that I can take the heads on and off without having to replace the bolts.
02:57And for the same reason, I put these ARP bolts on with our new flex plate.
03:01This flex plate had to be changed to mate our engine up to our 4L80.
03:06And since we're changing the flex plate, this is the perfect time to remove the one-time use fasteners
03:10and replace them with these better, stronger ARP bolts.
03:15Oh, right in the...
03:17This transmission, as I said before, is a 4L80.
03:32Now, the 4L80, just like the 4L65 that was in this truck, is a four-speed automatic transmission with an overdrive.
03:40But the thing that makes the 4L80 so good is that 80% of this transmission is a Turbo 400.
03:48Once you remove the input shaft and the upper set of clutches, everything from about here down is the exact same as a Turbo 400.
03:57And the Turbo 400 is probably one of the toughest transmissions out there when it comes to off-road.
04:02We use them in everything from trophy trucks to ultra-four cars to even rock crawlers.
04:06I'm rebuilding this transmission specifically for this truck.
04:09We're going to go through the whole thing, remove all of the electronics, convert it over to a full manual valve body,
04:14so you have to shift the transmission.
04:16There's going to be no electronics needed to make this thing work.
04:18And we're going to put a high-stall torque converter to match our cam profile for our twin turbos.
04:24When you rebuild a transmission, what you're looking for is basically wear on the clutch material.
04:30So this is the clutch material, and these are the steels that make up the friction components of an automatic transmission.
04:35If this transmission was burned up or bad, we'd see this basically completely blacked out, almost charcoal in color,
04:42and you'd see the steels all kind of heat-soaked and sometimes even warped.
04:46Little marks like this, this little heat scoring on here, that doesn't tell me that the transmission was bad.
04:51That just tells me that it was being used.
04:53Whenever I open up an automatic transmission, I like to completely rebuild it,
04:57and I always like to get a complete rebuild kit from Monster Transmission.
05:01And the reason I do is because it comes with everything that I need to rebuild the transmission,
05:07as well as any possible updates or upgrades that happened during the life of that transmission.
05:12So inside the Monster Transmission Complete Kit comes with everything you need to rebuild it.
05:16So it's all the gaskets, all the lip seals, all the seal seals,
05:20all the pistons that are going to be bonded that need to go in,
05:23heavy-duty choline steels.
05:26So these are Teflon-coated steels to handle more heat and more friction,
05:30and heavy-duty red Alto clutch discs.
05:33So these are also designed to handle more heat.
05:35Now for the performance side of it, I'm going with a full manual valve body that I also got from Monster.
05:42This will replace the valve body, like I said before, remove all of the electronics.
05:46This turns this transmission into a full manual shift transmission, and it reverses the pattern.
05:50So it's going to go park, reverse, neutral, first gear, second gear, third gear, fourth gear.
05:55If you want to start in second gear, you can simply put the transmission in second gear,
05:59and it starts right there.
06:01And then to mate it with, this is the Thor converter.
06:04It's a heavy-duty, furnace-brazed converter.
06:07It is all rebuilt and spec'd specifically for our engine and our transmission.
06:11And this one's going to lock up in the 2800 to 3500 RPM range,
06:16which will be perfect for our camshaft.
06:18All I have to do now is work my way through the transmission, top to bottom.
06:21I'll open up every single clutch pack,
06:23and I'll replace the friction materials with new friction material
06:26after I soak it in some transmission fluid,
06:28and I'll replace the steel clutches with the heavy-duty choline steels.
06:32Because we're dealing with a twin-turbo LS engine underneath the hood,
06:51I'm going to add this right here.
06:52This is called an engine mid-plate.
06:55Now, the way a mid-plate works is it basically goes in between the engine and the transmission,
07:01and then it solid mounts to the frame.
07:03What it does is it prevents the excessive twisting motion of the engine
07:07when all the power comes on.
07:09And when you're dealing with twin turbos and the cam profile that we have,
07:13this thing's going to really light up right around that three grand number.
07:15So there's a chance that it could actually twist so much,
07:18it may actually cause a motor mount to fail.
07:23There we go.
07:24I love transmissions.
07:26There's a hole there.
07:34So now that our new transmission is installed,
07:36we're going to jump underneath the hood.
07:38Now, if you remember, the whole plan here was to basically adapt this modern 2003 Silverado chassis
07:45to this classic C10 body,
07:48and that meant that we got to use the LS engine that was in the truck.
07:51Now, just because we've gone this far, we thought, why not go even further?
07:55And we went ahead and added these twin turbos to this engine because, well, why not?
08:00I mean, what's more hilarious than two turbos on this truck?
08:04The hot side piping is pretty much done right now,
08:07and I actually ended up kicking the turbos up a little bit higher
08:10because I want them to stick through the hood.
08:12So I added these little 180s right here, the wastegates, and then the turbo.
08:15The hood is going to sit right about here,
08:17so half the turbo is going to be peeking out of this.
08:19Now, one issue that can happen when you're dealing with turbochargers
08:24is you can have heat transfer.
08:26The heat can transfer from the hot side of the turbo
08:29into the actual compressor side of the turbo,
08:32and that heat can be introduced into the air that's also being compressed,
08:36and that can lead to engine detonation.
08:38So for over 40 years,
08:40Heat Shield Products has been solving this problem
08:42with many different types of heat shield items.
08:45Now, they have turbo blankets.
08:47They have two different versions.
08:48They have the lava turbo blanket and the stealth turbo blanket.
08:52Now, the way it works is it's specifically built for every turbo.
08:56It's going to wrap around the hot side of the turbo,
08:59and what that will do is it will prevent the heat
09:01from that section of the turbocharger
09:03from bleeding into the aluminum on the compressor side.
09:07They also have heat blankets for our wastegates
09:11because this area right here gets incredibly hot.
09:13If we actually wrap that, keep the heat from the wastegate
09:17from transferring into the actual spring and diaphragm
09:20inside the wastegate itself,
09:22it will prolong the life of that wastegate.
09:24These two products will lower under hood engine temperatures by 60%.
09:28It can handle up to 1,800 degrees of temperature
09:32or up to 2,200 for those bursts of high boost sections for about 30 seconds.
09:38And they're just a great option if you have turbochargers in your vehicle
09:41because it'll keep all that heat from messing with all your compressed air.
09:45While we're dealing with cooling underneath the hood,
09:48we might as well just keep going down the road
09:50and deal with our engine cooling.
09:52Now, to keep this LS cool underneath the hood of the C10,
09:55I've got this heavy-duty Summit Racing LS Swap radiator.
09:59Now, this is a two-row radiator that comes with two high-speed,
10:03high-flow electric fans and a shroud already installed.
10:07At the same time, I had them send me a whole bunch of AN line
10:11as well as AN Weld-In bungs and their AN fittings.
10:14Now, this is all-16, which means that it's one-inch inside diameter
10:20that should be able to flow the coolant very easily.
10:22And the nice thing about the LS is you can get these thermostat adapters
10:25like this one from Summit Racing, which will just bolt onto the water pump
10:29and basically adapt it to AN as well.
10:31We will have to weld a bung onto the top of the water pump,
10:35and I'll have to weld these bungs onto the radiator as well
10:37to convert it over to the AN fittings.
10:44We'll see you next time.
11:00We'll be right around.
11:02today in the shop we're working on my c10 pre-runner and we're about ready to get this bad
11:21boy over to the dyno and tune it but i thought before we did that we'd go through how we're
11:26controlling this engine and zach from hp tuners and actually the whole hp tuners crew is in the
11:31house to make sure this thing works perfectly but zach is going to talk us through all the hard
11:37parts and the software as well he's a powertrain engineer so let's start with what's controlling
11:43this engine so we're going to start with the core ecu and the actual harness itself what have we got
11:48on this truck we have a core ecu on this truck that is running a gen 3 ls engine since we're doing a
11:54ls swap that brings to mind the core ecu as it was designed for ls swaps hp tuners has a lot
12:01of experience in the stock ecu calibration and diagnostics and we now have brought that to
12:06the standalone market once you get this ecu under the hood what ls engines are we controlling with
12:12this so the ls engines we support is the gen 3 and gen 4 ls and we also have support for the cable and
12:19electronic throttle and also support for the automatic 4060 and 4080 e transmissions so all
12:25the popular ls stuff correct okay and not only the ecu it's also an all-new harness right that's
12:30correct yes so the harness was designed from the ground up uh we actually did even measurements on
12:35the engine to make sure it would fit um like a factory harness so when you go to install it on
12:40the engine it has a natural flow through the engine bay it looks like it's been well thought out person
12:45home now has their core ecu mounted they got all their uh harness hooked up to the engine and they've
12:50plugged in their laptop into the ecu what's the first thing they're going to do first thing they're
12:55going to want to do is load up our software that matches with the core ecu called vcm live okay
12:59um and when you first open vcm live you're going to have a choice to pick the your base tune file
13:04right and in this case you're going to pick open tune from the pc when you pick this it's going to
13:08ask you what transmission you're using first so in this case we're going to click on manual transmission
13:12and then it's going to ask uh what reluctor wheel and whether your electronic throttle or your cable
13:17throttle um so in this case that'll be a drive-by cable 24x um base map and then uh in that base map
13:25we basically pre-select all the um sensors that will connect you to our harness okay so when you
13:30first walk into the software um it's going to confirm hey what sensors are you utilizing off
13:36of our harness right because we have all these connections here right on this harness but you
13:40may not be using all of them uh depending on your particular setup in this case we have uh a map
13:47sensor here right which is required to start up the engine and in here uh we can double click in here and
13:52we have our pre-selections for um for those sensors and because we're running turbos we're running a
13:59different map sensor than you would normally have in this base calibration correct yes so and the base
14:03calibration typically it's a one bar uh map sensor but since we're running the boost we actually opted
14:08for the uh gm lsa uh sensor to allow us to be able to read that boost level okay all right so we select
14:15that sensor yeah and then it's going to pre-populate our slope and offset here which is our scaling for that
14:19sensor okay which is what we just selected and your inputs already pre-selected for this harness okay
14:24right so you really don't have to touch you that just there in case you decide to move that gotcha
14:28okay we have robust diagnostics okay in here um and you'll want to make sure your dtc bounds are also
14:34set up for whatever boost level that you are running so then you don't accidentally hit a dtc bound right
14:40okay that you don't want to yeah so it's measuring the actual boost and you can set it up here so that if
14:45it if if that boost is outside those parameters it'll put a check engine right it'll put a check
14:50engine light so you know hey you need to go check out what's going on with that sensor like what
14:54happened you go back and look at back of what happened and gotcha maybe adjust these bounds so
14:58basically you do all your configuration here first what sensors you're using and then after that you're
15:02going to want to go into um tune and setup wizard here and basically what we'll have in here is it's
15:08basically the same copy of what you just selected in here um uh and then for fuel injectors we'll scroll down to
15:15fuel injectors here and we have a quite a few list of injectors we have the base gm injectors
15:22fuel injector clinic injectors injector dynamic so the popular aftermarket injectors that people will
15:26commonly use and in this case we actually are running a set of injector dynamics 1050 injectors
15:31okay and so we'll want to go in here and select them all right and you select them it's gonna say hey
15:35this is what's changing and then you click okay and it will confirm hey that that you want to change
15:41these parameters and you click yes and then now it's in there for you okay so that's a critical
15:46part to make sure this engine starts up so if this is your first time doing something like this before
15:51you start the engine it may be worth just going back in and making sure that you've selected the
15:55right injectors select the right reluctor wheel basically just triple check that stuff before you
16:00commit to turning the key that's right and then after that you basically have a vehicle that's ready to
16:05run drive take it to your tuner and they'll go in and make it run perfect that's right
16:12okay so now we are sort of ready to go to the dyno but not really ready to go to the
16:16dyno i got some more work to do and josh is here from hp tuners and we're going to talk about some of
16:21the hard part items that we need to address before we hit the dyno so what are some things that people
16:26should pay attention to let's say someone built their first turbo ls what are some things got to watch out
16:30for yeah there's a couple of considerations when you're turbo charging um an ls of v8 like this
16:35so handful of things we want to make sure we got all the correct sensors to support positive pressure
16:40so we've got an lsa map sensor sitting back there at the intake and we're going to want to add a couple
16:44other things too so the fuel pressure regulator back here at the uh the engine here we're going to want
16:49to make sure that has a vacuum reference so that's going to make sure that it raises the
16:52fuel pressure with boost and compensates for that positive pressure on the other side of the injector
16:57okay now speaking of controlling that fuel we've got with uh your system we have two wideband o2s
17:04correct yep so the core has dual wideband uh for both banks so we're going to be able to individually
17:09see the air fuel ratio of both banks and then compensate for that from the ecu and placement of
17:15the wideband o2 sensors after the turbo after the turbo and then the angle of the sensor is also
17:20important so you're going to want it at somewhat of a vertical angle just so when condensation builds up
17:24doesn't stick in the sensor it has a chance to drain back out and we want to get it away from
17:29like six to eight inches away from that a decent amount away from the turbo just so it doesn't cook
17:33itself but not so close to the tailpipe that regular air contaminates that is correct yeah so we
17:39got to have a little bit of space there all right so now let's talk about spark plugs because you told
17:43me to buy a very specific we did yeah so when you're turbo charging a v8 like this you're not going to
17:48want to keep the factory spark plugs in it they're not designed for boost or really high horsepower
17:52applications this is a truck engine it's not made for making a ton of horsepower so what we're going
17:57to do is we're going to use a non-projected spark plug and it's also going to be the correct heat
18:01range for boost and kind of high output to kind of control the heat that the porcelain on the spark plug
18:07is exposed to we're also going to want to gap this too so as you have increased cylinder pressure under
18:13boost it's going to want to blow the spark out it's going to be harder to produce that spark when
18:18there's positive pressure so we're going to close that gap so it's basically going to maintain that
18:23spark while it's still under high cylinder pressure all right so we got the right spark plugs in we
18:29got our o2 sensor bungs in i got to add some vacuum ports i got to finish plumbing up our intercooler
18:33and then we're ready for a dyno one run right we are oh you told me to move the computer yeah we're
18:38probably going to want to move the computer and the fuse box a little bit away from the exhaust it's
18:43getting a little bit close there just so we don't get too much heat and that was that's that was my fault i didn't
18:48realize it's going to make that hater pipe so close to that but now that it's there all right
18:51so we'll go ahead move that and then we'll be ready to run
19:02put the o-ring back it's important so once we finish up these changes underneath our hood
19:24we'll be ready to take this truck over to the dyno
19:39so we've loaded up the c10 got it out of the shop and now we brought it over here to dbr high
19:44performance now dbr high performance has a loaded dyno so it's a hub dyno so it's going to bolt on to
19:50the rear axle and this allows the hp 200 guys to basically tune our engine and figure out how much
19:55power this thing is going to make so i'm just going to stand back let them do their computery things
20:00they'll tell me what they're doing and i'm sure i'll forget it by the next time i drive this truck
20:04so everything that you're going to need is going to be right here
20:14so we're going through we're dialing in the ve we're dialing in the fuel of the ecu
20:21basically we're trying to get the proper air fuel ratio so we can make the most amount of power
20:34some of the cool things about the core ecu is because it has two wideband o2 sensors we can monitor
20:40both banks of the engine making sure it stays within parameters and everything was looking
20:45good the entire time the truck was on the dyno one cool feature that they added that i think is pretty
20:51is what's called a boost cutoff i'm running mechanical waste gates with 10 pounds of boost
20:57inside of them the engine should never see more than 10 pounds of boost but if it ever does the ecu is
21:04designed to protect the engine it will cut fuel out of the engine to make sure it never gets above
21:09that 10 psi range and now it's time for the final pull
21:23just under 500 foot pounds of torque and just knocking on the door of 500 horsepower to the rear
21:31wheels means this 60 c10 is going to be a monster in the dirt
21:39grand
21:45wow
21:45oh
21:46so
21:47ましょう
21:48inevitably
21:48the
21:49great
21:49in esteem
21:51случае
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