- 2 days ago
Cuban Harley-Davidson owners are masters at improvising when it comes to spare parts and fuel. Join some devoted motorcyclists as they make their way to the annual Harley rally at the beachside resort of Varadero.
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00:01Born in the USA.
00:03Legend, cult classic, and Hollywood dream.
00:06The Harley Davidson, an icon of motorcycle history.
00:10It stands for freedom and adventure.
00:13But then...
00:14Donald Trump, our next president.
00:16Now we're gonna judge.
00:18A new president, and the childhood dream starts to dull.
00:22Even the Harley mystique begins to fade.
00:26Ironically, it's Cuba, the US's ideological rival, where the American dream lives on.
00:33In spite of anti-Cuba policies, trade embargoes, and harsh travel bans.
00:40The legend lives on, all thanks to the Cubans' improvisational skills and zest for life.
00:51It's finally time for the biggest Harley meet in the country.
00:54Faradero, Cuba's most beautiful and famous beach resort.
00:58And once a year, the hotspot for bikers.
01:03Luisito is back once again with his Harley.
01:08A 1947 model.
01:10This is the best part of my year.
01:12Great time, great people.
01:14A lot of people here we haven't seen all year.
01:16Very exciting.
01:17This is awesome, we've all been waiting for this.
01:20And now the big day.
01:22Everyone's on the move as the caravan rolls through the usually quiet beach town of Varadero.
01:29More than a hundred Harleys, many of them classics.
01:33But some newer models have also joined the fan community.
01:36Times have changed, but the passion for Harleys here remains as strong as ever.
01:41Bing.
01:42Really great.
01:43Totally satisfied.
01:44The absolute best.
01:46Havana.
01:47Somewhere in a quiet, unremarkable neighborhood called Cerro, far from the tourist crowds of old Havana.
01:54Here, Ling Chang has created something truly special.
01:58Behind these doors lies the country's classic bike hub.
02:01A descendant of Chinese immigrants, he collects whatever he can get his hands on.
02:06And despite all the challenges, he's turned his home into a Harley hangout.
02:14I think the motorized police were once some of Harley Davidson's best customers in Cuba.
02:19But then, as we know, all exchanges between Cuba and the U.S. came to a halt.
02:25Every agreement was torn up.
02:32Ling Chang lives for his classic bike shop, his love for Harleys in every corner.
02:40This bike runs perfectly.
02:42I'd say she's the prettiest girl among all my Harleys.
02:46But I've got other brands, too.
02:49This one's really strange.
02:52I fixed it up to suit my own taste.
02:55I found it in terrible shape, full of parts from Russian bikes.
02:59It was kind of a Frankenstein.
03:04And this is the bar.
03:06I set it up just the way I like it, with things that matter to me and details I've always liked.
03:16It's all made from recycled materials.
03:19Like this, for example, built from beer transport pallets.
03:29Let's celebrate Abel's birthday, our dear Abel, who's here to celebrate with us.
03:34Life in Cuba can be tough, but the biker community sticks together.
03:39Felicidades para Abel.
03:41Felicidades Abel en tu dÃa.
03:44Que lo pase con tanta alegrÃa.
03:48Muchos años de paz y armonÃa.
03:51Felicidad, felicidad, felicidad.
03:55Ling's wife, you see, a dance teacher, gets the crowd going with some merengue.
04:00Some here have come from far away.
04:03Saylin and Alberto are from Olguin, about 800 kilometers from Havana.
04:08They met after a motorcycle accident.
04:10He was the rider, she was the doctor.
04:14The good vibes don't change the reality.
04:16Things in Cuba are tough.
04:18Scarce food supplies, power outages, few gas stations, fuel shortages, and almost no spare parts.
04:24How did they even manage the 800k from Olguin to Havana?
04:29The fuel situation was tricky, so to make sure we even got here, we had to prepare and bring extra gas with us.
04:39Sure, just don't ride the bike and everything will be fine.
04:46The dumbest question anyone can ask me is, how much gas does your bike use?
04:52I say, if I wanted to save fuel, I'd get an electric one.
04:57Just leave me and my Harley alone.
04:58So, besides what fits in the tank, we filled 5-litre water containers with gas.
05:09And that's how we finally made it here.
05:13Cuba has power outages of up to 22 hours.
05:17There hasn't been a Harley dealer or any spare parts here for 60 years.
05:20And now, with the new U.S. President?
05:24Most of our spare parts came in a suitcase.
05:28You can't send them in containers.
05:30So, I just ask a friend, it's five pounds, can you bring it?
05:33That's how we do it.
05:35There are many Cubans with family here in Cuba.
05:39It won't be easy to cut off those connections.
05:41The big event in Varadero isn't until Friday, but the excitement is already building.
05:48Two days early, a smaller group from Havana's Harley Club sets off on a longer ride to the south coast.
05:55At dawn, they meet up on Cuba's only highway, heading towards Santa Clara.
06:02I've been a biker for as long as I can remember.
06:06My dad and my grandpa were bikers, too.
06:08We've always had motorcycles at home.
06:14For me, it's Harley or nothing.
06:16A Harley is a real motorcycle.
06:18Everything else is just a copy.
06:20The Harley is the motorcycle.
06:22For now, it's still a waiting game.
06:25In Cuba, patience is part of life.
06:27Some riders are still tracking down fuel.
06:30Nothing here happens without planning.
06:33We make sure we're prepared so we don't break down.
06:36Why?
06:37The trip isn't that long, but the bikes use different amounts of gas.
06:41Some more, some less.
06:43And with the country's situation, you have to be sure.
06:46This is liquid luck.
06:48The support vehicles are like rolling survival stations.
06:52We've got everything, except beef, as they say.
06:58Gas, cookies, clothes, plenty of helmets, all you need for the trip.
07:04Everything necessary.
07:07Spare batteries, tools to fix things, everything.
07:10Ham.
07:12Nothing's missing.
07:16It's finally almost time to hit the road.
07:22This is the best.
07:26We wait all year for this weekend.
07:29A group photo with the Harleys.
07:32Ilse is the only woman riding solo on her bike.
07:35This weekend is everything, the moment everyone's been waiting for.
07:43It's when you drop everything to be with the big Harley family in Varadero.
07:51Nothing matters more than this ride on these days.
07:54So what did she do to get road ready?
08:02Lots of waiting in line for gas.
08:07Then being super frugal with it.
08:10And gathering up everything else needed for the trip.
08:17Finally, it's time to go.
08:20Hearts pounding as they ride into the sunrise.
08:24Heading for Varadero.
08:33Meanwhile, tucked away at a hidden spot in a green suburb of Havana,
08:38is a special Harley workshop where they build trikes, or three-wheelers, from scratch.
08:44Antonio is the man in charge.
08:47Hi. Here we have some old motorcycles being restored, depending on what the owners want.
08:55Modified, repaired, or kept original.
08:58This one here is from 1947, a panhead.
09:05We assembled it here with an engine from somewhere else.
09:10Over there is another one we turned into a trike, a three-wheeler.
09:16We do it all right here in the workshop.
09:20We means me, the machinist who makes many parts, and the bodywork guy.
09:26Everything's done here.
09:28I personally work on the fenders, which come from an old MZ Trophy.
09:33We modify and widen them.
09:36The tires are from Alada, since those are the most common.
09:38Then we make the trunk lid. Small, but you can fit some stuff inside.
09:44Antonio's place is cozy.
09:46Today, friends are coming over for a barbecue.
09:51Some have arrived, but two are still missing.
09:55The others are lazy.
09:58They always show up only when everything's ready, just to eat and drink.
10:02Everyone's showing up now.
10:04The workshop doubles as the living room and dining room.
10:09They just clear some space.
10:11Harley riders are in a world of its own here in Cuba.
10:15They've got their own style and rhythm, and always stick together.
10:21Back to Ling Chang and his Casa Club.
10:24The ride from Havana to Varadero is only about 100 kilometers,
10:28but even that needs to be carefully planned.
10:30One of the saddlebags fell off, no surprise given the roads.
10:34Everyone else is getting ready to roll out.
10:37This rider sucks the gas up through the hose, then fills the tank.
10:42In Pinar del Rio, there was no power for two days.
10:44I am excited to see all my friends that I haven't seen since last year, that we can all have a beer together and have a cigar and talk motorcycles and family and everything.
10:56Unbelievable.
10:57The way they keep them running, the way they cherish them.
11:02This place here has got the best of the best of the motorcycles.
11:07They're showing me how they use different parts.
11:11There's a bike that was put together with a washing machine nuts and bolts to get it to run.
11:17That's brilliant.
11:18The parts for them are very scarce and hard to find, but the ingenuity of the Cuban ingenuity is incredible because they make these things run.
11:26It's also a necessity to have the bike run, but they also love the heritage of the Harleys, and they want them running up and down all over Cuba.
11:35Everything's set. The day we've all been waiting for is finally here.
11:45Some folks took off two days ago towards Playa Larga, but we're starting right here at the Casa Club.
11:52I'm hoping there won't be any problems on this ride. I topped up the oil, a bit of gas. I should make it.
11:58The trip is about 130 kilometers. One tank of gas should just about get them there if they're lucky.
12:13One more thing. We need to keep an eye on the two classic bikes. Does anyone need to fill up with gas?
12:20You have to put gas. You don't have to stop. Yes, okay.
12:24Well, all right, ride safe. Enjoy.
12:28All right, time to roll. Off they go to the first stop, hopefully.
12:36But just five kilometers in, the first breakdown. Luckily, it's only a saddlebag that came loose.
12:44That was fast, the first problem. One of the bags came loose.
12:50We'll just throw it in a car, then we're good to go.
12:54I don't know. No one stole me.
12:58Beautiful ride, though.
13:00A quick fix, and they're back on the road.
13:07No more issues, and the first stop in Santa Cruz del Norte is in sight.
13:13That's already halfway to Varadero.
13:21I'm getting myself some padded underwear. This seat is no good for long rides.
13:29First, a pina colada to recharge.
13:32And some classic Cuban vibes with live music.
13:36Everyone's getting psyched for Varadero.
13:38The next stop, Matanzas.
13:51Time to refuel again, just to be safe.
13:55Only foreign credit cards work here. No cash. And hardly any Cubans have those.
14:04And fuel here costs nearly three times as much as usual.
14:07At the unofficial exchange rate, a liter here costs about 400 pesos.
14:14So this is how I'm doing it.
14:16Yeah, it's better to have a beer instead.
14:21Just a short ride left, and the destination is in sight.
14:30Varadero Beach.
14:39It's great to see everyone again. It's been a while.
14:42The group from Playa Larga has already arrived, and everything went smoothly.
14:48The Harley riders proudly show off their unique machines.
14:52There's also a bit of defiance in the air.
14:55Meeting here year after year, despite all the economic and political challenges.
15:00The long weekend is finally here.
15:08A close-knit crew, welcoming everyone, with a bond like no other.
15:13This is the best part of my year.
15:30This means a lot to me, because here you meet all the brothers you have.
15:37And of course, there's dancing too.
15:44In Cuba, dancing is as natural as breathing.
15:47Today was awesome.
16:09For decades, the Harley riders and Cuba have walked a fine line between hardship and a fierce lust for life.
16:16Hopeful and resilient, the dream lives on, despite, or maybe because of, the tougher U.S. policies and Donald Trump's stricter rules.
16:27Even if direct flights get canceled, I'm sure parts can still find their way through other countries,
16:33and that our brothers will keep helping us.
16:36That's just how it has to be.
16:38These connections run deep and aren't going anywhere anytime soon.
16:41And what's a biker gathering without a little American rock?
16:47Soon, everyone will be heading home, filled with the spirit of freedom and adventure,
17:02already gearing up for next year's Harley Gathering in Barradero.
17:07And then, everyone will see you later.
17:08I'll see you later.
17:09You'll see you later.
17:10All right, now we're all ready.
17:11We're all ready.
17:12We've got a biker's will be coming.
17:13I hope we're all ready.
17:14And what are we going to do?
17:15We're going to do it.
17:17We are going to do it.
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