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How to Test HT Leads.
Adam Mechanic
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2 days ago
How to test engine HT leads with a multimeter. How to check them incase of misfire. Please follow and like for more content!
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Motor
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00:00
Hi everyone just a quick video on HT leads what they are and what they do and how to test them
00:06
to see if it's the reason for either a rough idle on a car or possibly a misfire on a cylinder. So
00:12
HT leads literally deliver high voltage and high current from either your coil pack or your
00:17
distributor on towards your spark plug so the spark plug can fire under extreme pressure and
00:23
burn that fuel layer mixture in your cylinder. Obviously I've got these off a four cylinder
00:27
engine so I've got one HT lead per cylinder normally they are marked up when they're new
00:32
for which cylinder they're going when we talk about cylinders one to four one is normally the one that's
00:37
at the timing belt end and you work from there so I've got four HT leads here all slightly different
00:43
lengths because of obviously the length of the engine so number one is the longest in this case
00:47
and number four is the shortest so when I do my test in a minute I'm going to be expecting the
00:51
longest one to have the highest resistance and a gradual step down in resistance as the length
00:56
decreases within one of each each of these HT leads you've got a copper wire and it's thickly insulated
01:03
to make sure that the current cannot escape and it does go to its intended path which is
01:07
onto the spark plug so the outside is normally rubber or silicon or PVC or something similar
01:13
and inside is just copper and in this section here you'll have a ceramic insulator to make sure
01:19
again that that high current gets to its and high voltage gets to its destination
01:24
this would this end normally plugs into the coil pack or the HT lead sorry into the coil pack or the
01:30
distributor and this one goes shrouds around the spark plug and make sure it goes again onto its
01:35
destination so um multimeter wise I've got my multimeter set to 20k which is 20k ohms
01:41
uh it's one kilo ohm per thousand ohms so we're expecting high resistance in these leads
01:45
and obviously I've got my black uh probe into the comb for common earth and my red uh probe into the
01:52
vr or ohms because I'm using the ohm setting so I'm going to start from the top the longest one I
01:57
expect the highest resistance in this one I'm going to work my way down expecting the resistance to drop
02:02
each time uh staggered quite evenly um just mentioned if one of these does have high resistance it's going
02:09
to cause a spark to fire for less time so you're going to end up having rough idle and lumpy uh
02:17
running conditions if it's broken all together or there's a crack in the wire or a bad connection and
02:22
it's it's open circuit you'll have a misfire on that particular cylinder so let's start with the
02:26
longest one first um I've labeled these up so I know exactly which end each of these cables is going into
02:33
for myself on this distributor it's actually marked with each uh cylinder that it's going to a joint
02:38
so it's quite easy but it's always worth marking them up if not so I'm just going to put my negative
02:43
on one end it doesn't matter which way around you do these and the positive on the other end
02:48
and again at 1000 at killer ohms the longest wire has 14
02:55
around about 14 uh ohms killer ohms i'm gonna put 14 there next one down then I'm going to expect less
03:06
in this one as I say so again it doesn't matter which way around again but we'll go the same as
03:11
before so one into that one deep into there make sure you find the metal contact otherwise you won't
03:16
get reading so that particular one the resistance drops a little bit as the current finds it easier
03:24
and easier to pass through the wire so we'll go for 8.38 there we go to the third one
03:37
again make sure you find the metal contact and then on to the negative on the other end here
03:43
we're definitely on the metal contact in there and i'm getting absolutely no reading so one shows open
03:53
circuit sometimes it'll show ol for open loop so actually the little voltage coming out of the
03:59
battery in the multimeter passing through this cable is not getting to the other end of the cable
04:03
so straight away i can now say that the misfire on this particular engine
04:08
is definitely at least number three cylinder so i'll put ol for open loop there is no continuity
04:18
in that particular lead and then the last one let's have a look so i've got one in there
04:26
one in there i'm getting the reading of on the shortest lead
04:31
10.35 we'll go with 10.35 so actually the resistance in the shortest lead is greater than
04:43
the one in the second longest so for me this is on its way to failing so there's bad either a bad
04:49
connection on one of the clips or the wire itself got a kink or some damage in it so that one would
04:55
ideally be replaced because that was potentially going to cause a misfire sooner or later but number three
05:01
this one has failed so somewhere within here there is a full break in the ht lead and that is causing
05:07
misfire on number three cylinder on this engine um so i will be ordering a new set of ht leads and
05:12
distributor cap sometimes it's worth checking checking the distributor cap as well because these contacts
05:17
as the rotary arm spins around hits these four contacts for each cylinder these contacts do wear
05:22
down over time and eventually will lose connection and it won't be able to send the high voltage across to
05:27
the corresponding port for the ht lead in this case they're not too bad a little bit corrosion on that
05:34
one but as part of this packet will be coming with a new distributor cap and a new set of ht leads for
05:40
this particular car hope that makes sense see you on the next one
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