- 7 months ago
The Zanskar is a small forgotten valley surrounded by the high peaks of the Himalayas. When the snow-covered mountain passes are inaccessible, people are cut off from the outside world. Except for a partially frozen stream: a 120km path through a steep mountain range. Traveling through Chadar’s gorges is a hazardous ordeal for children and grown-ups, who must endure cold, fatigue, and thirst, along with fear, and dizzying heights. When the Zanskaris set foot on this shifting river, they do so with extreme caution and prayers, as the ice can easily be fine one day and fatal the next. This time, 150 men are carrying timber to Zanskar. They also escort some pupils back to their school in Leh - Ladakh - after the winter holidays. Meet these men, women, and children who risk their lives each Winter on the ice trail on the Zanskar River.
Category
📺
TVTranscript
00:00This is a world cut off from everything, a world of mountains and prayer, a world also where men suffer and struggle year round against harsh nature, against the cold, the wind and the ice.
00:30What is this?
00:31.
00:32.
00:37.
00:38.
00:40.
00:47.
00:50.
00:52.
00:59.
01:00In the Himalayas, at an altitude of 3,600 meters, winter starts early and lasts nine months.
01:20At night, the temperature drops to minus 35 degrees Celsius. These are the Zanskar Mountains.
01:30Slowly, day after day, the ice is closing over the swift-running waters of the Zanskar River, transforming it into the Chadar, the frozen river.
01:48The Zanskar River
01:51The Zanskar River
01:52The Zanskar River
01:54Life is imprisoned in this one-way mirror. The ice has frozen everything, up to the farthest tributaries.
02:00The Zanskar River
02:02Life is imprisoned in this one-way mirror. The ice has frozen everything, up to the farthest tributaries of the Zanskar, for four or five months.
02:14This frozen river then becomes the only passage linking this small forgotten kingdom to the rest of the world.
02:20The Zanskar River
02:21Life is imprisoned in this one-way mirror. The ice has frozen everything, up to the farthest tributaries of the Zanskar, for four or five months.
02:27This frozen river then becomes the only passage linking this small forgotten kingdom to the rest of the world.
02:44Ladakh is a region of India. It's a land of high plateaus and mountains, which rise to an altitude of 7,000 meters. A smaller, lesser-known realm lies to the south of Ladakh, the Zanskar.
02:58All the roads to Zanskar are closed in the winter. They are snowbound and impassable. There's only one way out, via a dangerous, ephemeral, fearsome and fragile route.
03:09It's a partially frozen river, known as the Zanskar in summer. Once it freezes in winter, everyone calls it the Chadar, a 120-kilometer frozen corridor stretching along the base of the narrow gorges.
03:23As the only passage between Zanskar and Ladakh, it is vital. Men fear it, but are sometimes forced to take it.
03:31I've travelled on the Chadar four times. Two round trips. The first time I was young, there was to go to school in Lei.
03:46The second time was from my work with the government. On the Chadar, I would take two pairs of good-skinned shoes with a special smooth sole. With two pairs, I could change them if they got wet or torn.
04:04There could be a lot of snow on the Mayor, though, part of the gorge. And the risk of avalanches is high.
04:1840 years ago, it snowed much more than now. When it snows, it's not so cold. The snow then melts, which means there's more water in the river. All sorts of obstacles delay the caravans.
04:42That's why it used to take eight or nine days. These days, there's less snow, so less risk. Making good progress, you can reach Lei in four or five days.
04:57You need less food, so you carry less and can travel faster. It's important to have a guide who's familiar with the springs. They know where the ice is thinnest.
05:07The Chadar's a very old route. The Zanskar caravans preferred this route, as it was shorter. They could trade with Ladakh, selling yak butter and buying spices, clothes, rice, menthols and salt.
05:20All the passes are now blocked by snow. The summer path is closed. There is no more contact with the outside world. No truck has arrived or left Zanskar in over two months.
05:37The large Zanskar plane is waking up. It is minus fifteen degrees celsius, which is fairly warm for this time of year. Since the 1980s, the road, trekking and humanity have gone through.
06:06The living conditions have improved the living conditions of the eight thousand Zanskari. The country is opening up, but slowly. Here, people share their world with benevolent gods and demons. And the Zanskari must make sure that any changes don't annoy them.
06:23Stand in, twenty-five-years-old, works as a guide in the summer.
06:44Stanzin, 25 years old, works as a guide in the summer, and in the winter sometimes works
06:54as a porter on the chadar.
06:56His wife is expecting their fourth child.
06:58This is a big family for the Zanskari.
07:01When Stanzin was 18, his father decided he should marry, so he left his village to live
07:07in this house.
07:08It's always the same here.
07:10Neither girls nor boys choose their partners.
07:13Everyone obeys their family, their father.
07:15He knows best what is good for you.
07:23Families and animals live in the same house.
07:26In the winter they huddle together on the ground floor.
07:29By late afternoon the animals make their own way in.
07:35A maze of dark stables leads to the kitchen, the only room where the temperature rises above
07:40zero in the winter.
07:42The heat comes from the animals and the dried dung burning in the stove.
07:45Zanthin is a farmer.
07:58He takes the chadar to sell his butter in Nadakh.
08:01He lives with his two wives, who are sisters.
08:05Polygamy is unusual here.
08:07It's more common for one woman to marry two brothers.
08:10Polyandria is tolerated in Zanskar so that land is not split up.
08:15Most often the Zanskari live in couples.
08:17No one can survive here alone.
08:19One month ago, during the New Year's celebrations, Zanthin killed a yak with his neighbors.
08:28They then went to pray at the monastery.
08:31A few tiny pieces of this meat showed up in the tukpah, the flower soups, and the rice dishes.
08:37Fresh vegetables and fruits are impossible to find in winter.
08:40Winters are long.
08:51There's plenty of time to spend together, and it's far too cold to be outside.
08:55The family and the village community are supported by mutual assistance and solidarity.
08:59And yet, life is happy here.
09:10The channel is dangerous.
09:13If the ice cracks, you fall in the water, and you need help.
09:17If you're sick, you also need help.
09:19That's why I never go on my own.
09:22As for Tashi, he left his village to get married in Padum, where he is a carpenter.
09:26During the winter, he works as a porter on the chadar.
09:32I always check with my father-in-law before venturing on the river.
09:36He tells me how the chadar will be, whether the ice will be okay or not.
09:42If he says the conditions are all right, I'll go.
09:56My father-in-law meditates a lot.
10:04In the winter, he spends three or four months alone in a cave, without seeing a soul.
10:08In 1988, Tashi's father-in-law withdrew to the mountains.
10:19For four years, he meditated in one room, without seeing the light of the sun or the moon.
10:24This is why people consult him before taking the trip on the chadar.
10:28The first time I went on the chadar was in 1965.
10:57For a business trip to Lai, in Ladakh.
11:03In fact, it was to pick up the pay for the team working at Padam, who were still waiting to be paid.
11:11When I left Padam, the chadar was fine, and it was an easy trip to Lai.
11:18But when we came back in March, it took 21 days to get home.
11:22We often had to climb on the rocks, or get in the water.
11:30After camping at Thiletsumdu, we had to leave the river altogether, and climb up to the passes, via the Jumlan.
11:39We didn't have enough food.
11:46We had to turn back and return to Chilling, to buy Tzampa, before setting out again.
11:51It's a very long trail.
11:53We were heavily loaded, and five days later, we started running out in Tzampa.
11:57We had almost no food left.
11:59By a strike of luck, we found some Ibex.
12:01Fortunately, our caravan included some Muslims, who were able to kill two of them.
12:09We ate the meat, and that saved our lives.
12:15The second time I traveled along the chadar was in 1968, for another trip to Lai.
12:21The ice was really bad, and we could not get through.
12:24We had to wait ten days at the Linkshed Monastery, as the chadar was still impassable, we had to take to the mountains, the Singla Pass, Wanla and Lama Yuru, to reach Lai.
12:39After consulting his father-in-law, Tashi met his friends at Stanz Inn's house.
13:09Everyone is getting ready for a harsh ordeal.
13:12They are going to hire themselves out to haul timber over the chadar.
13:16This means leaving their families for at least two weeks, time it takes to transport the wood and return, if the demons allow it.
13:26All the men fear the chadar, but it's also a way for them to earn some money in this extremely poor region.
13:39The Lama's prayed for the gods to accompany all the men, young and old, in their expedition over the chadar.
13:51There are men from Neera, Dibling, Skumpata.
13:54Some 150 porters from the six villages in the district are arriving in Anumil, a two-day walk away.
14:01But some come from even farther away, even Linkshed, 50 kilometers away, for this tough job.
14:07There aren't enough shelters to house all the porters, even when they huddle in together.
14:16It's snowing.
14:17The late arrivals spend the night outside.
14:20They are also the first awake.
14:21The timber is transported by truck to the slope of Anumil, where the porters draw lots for their loads.
14:30These 150 porters are all simple farmers.
14:34They can't pass up a chance to earn a few extra rupees.
14:44Even Punsok, who's always anxious, is there.
14:48He always consults the astrologer before setting foot on the ice.
14:51He fears the dangers of the frozen river, but no one can afford to refuse this work.
14:57With the three euros he'll earn carrying a piece of wood, he will buy sugar and a sack of rice.
15:11The wages are based on the number of pieces of wood carried, not on the weight.
15:16Certain beams are twice the size of others, but no one argues about drawing lots.
15:21Some of the wood is taken down to the riverbank.
15:23Some of the wood is taken down to the riverbank.
15:27Some of the wood is taken down to the river bank in the afternoon.
15:57Now, the wood has to be hauled as far as Lingshed, 50 kilometers away.
16:15At best, it will take four days to reach the town, two days on the river, arriving directly
16:20below the village, then another two days, as the men carry the timber on their backs
16:25the 600 meters straight up to the village.
16:35The youngest porter is only 13.
16:36He is very proud to be able to earn a few rupees carrying the timber.
16:41He made a deal with his uncle, who will take half of his burden in addition to his own.
16:48The porterage on the Chadar will start tomorrow at dawn.
17:01The Zanskari are highly superstitious.
17:08They fear these knights in the caves, which they believe are filled with demons.
17:12In the morning, the youngest are exhausted by the battles in their dreams, like the monks'
17:19dances.
17:21The fourth door is going to be filled with men.
17:32And that's the secret for the years.
17:34It's been a secret for the years.
17:36Hey!
17:36In the city of Sanjay, in the city of Sanjay to come to lament.
17:39Some men left early in the morning before everyone else.
17:58They had already spent two nights outside, and tonight they'd like to find a spot in a cave.
18:04A long caravan of wood porters set out a half hour later.
18:28But over two days, the conditions on the chadar have changed.
18:32Those who went ahead to scout the route had to wait for the others to build a makeshift
18:36bridge.
18:39It's always the same when it snows.
18:54The temperature rises, as does the water level.
18:57The ice expands, cracks, and then the problems start.
19:04It's hard work pulling the timber over the ice.
19:08But being poor, we need work in winter to earn a little cash.
19:12That is why we do the portering.
19:15We get 150 rupees for each piece of timber.
19:29Usually, one porter can carry four pieces, so we can earn 600 rupees or 15 dollars per trip.
19:36Each trip lasts four days.
19:41Obviously, the timber costs a lot less than the transport, which is three or four times higher
19:45than the price of the water.
19:47We're after the water.
19:49We have to get one more.
19:50Let's put the water on our side.
19:52Now you're on the side of the water.
19:53You're on the side of the water.
19:55So, you're on the side of the water.
19:56You're on the side.
19:59Even when the ice is thick, it's exhausting to carry around with the river.
20:12Even when the ice is thick, it's exhausting to carry the heavy, unwieldy loads of wood
20:19all day long.
20:20But the men's greatest worry is thin ice, which gives way under their feet or suddenly
20:26starts to melt.
20:27When the ice loosens up, there's no place to walk and often no rocks on the banks which
20:33porters can climb to continue their route.
20:39Suddenly, the caravan has encountered an obstacle.
20:44There's no ice for over 50 meters on each side of the river.
20:48It's because of a well-known hot water spring.
20:51Will they have to turn around now that they've already walked for so many hours already?
20:57There is a possible passage on the right bank, on the other side by the rock face.
21:02But with the 150 loads of wood, there's no hope of climbing.
21:06The beams will have to go via the left bank.
21:36It's an exhausting, painstaking job.
21:43But 50 pieces of timber have passed through.
21:46Now it's time for the men, who cannot take the same route.
21:50Without ropes or harnesses, and in makeshift boots, they're forced to climb up the cliffs,
22:12sometimes risking their lives.
22:13Sometimes risking their lives.
22:19It's an accidental, it's an abrupt.
22:20Hey, look at this.
22:21You're a yummy!
22:22Here's a lot of information here!
22:23You're waiting for us to go.
22:24There's no bigger the middle of a row so that we're stopping by.
22:26Now you're waiting for the men, the west side.
22:27I'm waiting for you to walk into the car.
22:28Goal!
22:29It's time for the men.
22:30I've worked together!
22:31Come to pass you to stop your morning!
22:32I've worked together!
22:33I've worked together, and you'll get to pass you to pass you on.
22:34You're waiting for you to...
22:35I came to pass you to pass you on.
22:37Anyway, I'm going to pass you to pass you on.
22:38When I'm right, I'm okay.
22:40One morning, I put you in.
23:11Some have taken the
23:41high road, while others decide to continue on the river, 50 meters below, convinced they
23:48can't stand the heights.
23:52But is the icy water any less fearsome?
24:11The first water has made it past the obstacle nearly two hours ago. The sun has gone behind
24:16the rocks, and the temperature dropped ten degrees. These men have lived their entire lives
24:22in icy weather eight months of the year, but they don't all react the same way when forced
24:27into water that's two degrees below zero. Only the most courageous, those who wade through
24:33with freezing water barefoot will reach the shelter dry. The others will have to finish
24:38the chadar in wet clothes.
24:40Here you are, nor is it still there?
24:54we are facing
25:10Come on, do you want me to do that?
25:40Here we go.
26:10Before the socks can stiffen in the freezing temperatures, they are pulled on wet.
26:32The boots, bought second-hand from the Indian Army at the lay market, often have holes.
26:38They rarely need to be emptied out.
26:40The heavy seems to reach the ground in the course after the
26:58bear in first sight.
27:02nightfall is just one hour away when the last porters complete the passage the first ones have
27:25already reached the caves a few kilometers away they draw lots to decide who has to gather wood
27:31for the fire despite the heart of the people
27:33like it
27:39oh
27:43It's a bit like a pep.
27:45It's the second day of
28:14portrait on the chadar. While a few still linger in the more comfortable
28:19caves, most of the porters left without breakfast to warm themselves up by walking.
28:34The river has not frozen evenly, but for the moment there is still a strip of ice that can bear the weight of a man and his burden.
28:44If the wood falls in the water, there is little chance of being able to recover it. The current can drag it quickly under the ice.
28:51Yes.
28:58For the porters, there is the constant danger of falling in the water. Even if they survive the shock of the icy water,
29:05most of them don't know how to swim.
29:12Three weeks ago, after a long cold spell, the level of the chadar dropped and the ice collapsed.
29:19The blocks of ice formed dams. The water overflowed, refroze and left behind a jumble of ice.
29:26The water overflowed and left behind a jumble of ice.
29:33The water!
29:34He dropped by two in the air.
29:35The water!
29:36He dropped by two in the air.
29:37He dropped by two in the air.
29:38I don't know!
29:39the level of the chadar dropped and the ice collapsed the blocks of ice formed
29:43dams the water overflowed refroze and left behind a jumble of ice
29:53despite the difficulties the field seems to get heavier with every step there's a sense of relief
30:12among the men they're reaching their goal
30:23but when they reach the narrow valley leading to lingshed they are suddenly overcome with fatigue
30:41they're done with the unpredictable river but physically the hardest part still lies ahead
30:48they have to carry the timber 600 meters straight up the wood is heavier than ever
30:54and they can no longer slide the beams
31:17after the ice steps comes a long slightly sloping valley with glacial cross glyphs
31:38night is fast approaching and the men don't want to camp outside for the fourth night
31:43they leave their beams and climb up to the village everyone from lingshed does the same
31:49the final step of the trip starts tomorrow
31:55for 10 days the men go back and forth between the village and the river to bring up the timber
32:00slated for the school construction
32:04lingshed is perched at an altitude of 4 000 meters above the frozen river between ladak and zanskar
32:1045 farmers and their families live below the monastery built 500 years ago
32:1720 years ago the residents of lingshed were truly cut off from the rest of the world
32:22because it took several days over paths and the river to reach the village
32:26many people died because there were no doctors
32:29even today women give birth in hazardous conditions
32:32that's the goal yet things have been slowly changing in recent years on the initiative of the geshi
32:39the monastery's abbot and help from foreign sponsors
32:45just a few years ago parents did not send their children to school because they were needed to work in the fields
33:06conditions of years 30 years ago classes were taught outside in a field
33:10it was a government school longer years but the conditions were tough what with the cold and heavy
33:16snowfalls the teacher never stayed here for long they would arrive in spring which comes late
33:22around may or june and stay for two or three months before returning to lay or their own village
33:27then when the winter started with all the snow they never wanted to come back
33:31yes the teacher came from another zanskari village he and his wife teach three languages tibetan urdu and english
33:40along with mathematics science and civics thanks to an austrian sponsor the primary school is open
33:47even during the long winter months
33:49the six villages in the district are counting on their children's education to provide for their futures
34:04but the lingshed solar school constructed in the year 2000 needs to be expanded the major problem is
34:10transporting materials to the village one room is very difficult because building a classroom is really
34:15difficult because it's so complicated transporting the wood sometimes the calming water sometimes if
34:20there's a lot of water you have to go that deep into the river the ice on the time there sometimes when
34:26the ice is broken you spend three or four days freezing it can get really cold which is tough
34:32it can get really cold but it can get really cold but it can get really cold but this time they are
34:53taking children to the large school in lay
35:02their caravan sets out on february 22nd to travel the 90 kilometers over the mountains and ice
35:09that separates them from the ladak valley after walking through the snow and crossing a pass
35:17they spend the night in the high mountain shelters of narik along the river
35:20each child is accompanied by his father or an uncle two of them are but five years old
35:40the caravan is in a hurry because the ice will soon melt and those not able to return by the river will
35:46be stuck in lake when the ice breaks up yet they waited for the temperature to rise a few degrees
35:51before leaving with the children it's a tough trip for them some nights the temperatures drop to around
36:00minus 30 degrees celsius the bags are heavy the children are leaving for several months and they pack extra food
36:12in case they are blocked several days on the chadar waiting for the ice to freeze again
36:32this venture is even more dangerous with children they get tired more quickly and they cannot walk
36:38walk through the water as the men sometimes have to do
36:52so
37:22Young stands in, five years old, leads the way and the caravan settles into his rhythm.
37:38They take a first break after three hours, enjoying a bit of sun while they have something
37:43to eat and drink.
37:44This is the best time of the day.
37:47In winter, there are the holidays.
37:51The students who came home to Lingshed must return to Leh now that the holidays are over.
37:58This little boy is very poor.
38:01His father died a month ago.
38:02A tourist who once visited Lingshed will be paying his fees.
38:06He is going to live in Leh.
38:15There's a lot of snow at Singla.
38:17All the paths are blocked.
38:21Chatter is the only route in the winter.
38:23The others are all impassable.
38:26Some days are hard.
38:28Others are easier.
38:32If the water in the Chatter is high, it's difficult.
38:35I hope the ice is hard now.
38:37Maybe it's been hot.
38:39I don't know.
38:41Maybe.
38:42Maybe.
38:43I hope.
38:44I hope it is hard.
38:45Shakya's smile conceals his concern.
38:48He is the leader of the expedition and responsible for everyone's safety.
38:53The water level has risen 30 centimeters and soaked into the snow.
38:57Because of the currents and sometimes the sun, the ice changes all the time.
39:02Within just a few meters, it can shatter like glass.
39:06The chatter can be deadly.
39:25Shakya goes down to test the ice, which has become too thin.
39:29They can't take any risks with the children.
39:56The caravan has to travel over the rocks to go around this bad passage.
40:00They organize the climb, though they are fearful, despite the children's good humor and determination.
40:05escalate and scared.
40:15This is crazy!
40:19I don't know what to do before.
40:22Later, they will have to walk in the water, but the children are not equipped.
40:42Even the men don't always have good shoes.
40:49Bravely, and even enthusiastically, the line gets moving again over the Chadar ice.
41:12After losing many hours, they are finally sliding across strong, firm ice.
41:18It's gradually becoming colder.
41:23The water, which had flowed over the first layer of ice, froze on the surface.
41:28Shakya can't make up his mind.
41:30The fragile crust makes the ice hard to probe.
41:33He decides that it's safer to climb up the hill above the river.
41:37Young Stansen, who never stops in the village and runs after the goats for hours, is exhausted and subdued.
41:56His uncle has put him on a sled.
42:06Dusk is settling in, and they push hard to reach a gorge, where there are shelters and enough wood for the entire caravan.
42:13The children gather wood and the stones that will protect the fire.
42:20The cook pulls some sugar from his goncha.
42:25The sweetened zampai is an exceptional treat.
42:41Stansen relishes it down to the last crumb.
42:44Stansen relishes it down to the plain set.
42:47The beautiful perfect fish and the damagedIST will be moved except for an irrigation garden.
42:51The fish and the melon Yang are off of the sacrifice and the salmon.
42:55The fish and the salmon.
42:57One of the fish and the salmon.
43:03The sun skims over the top of the rocks, but it's bitterly cold in the gorges below.
43:22The men and women finally warm up by walking silently, their stomachs empty.
43:28Suddenly the caravan is stopped dead.
43:39There is not enough ice to pass.
43:41They have to try to climb up the sides, but the rock seems fragile.
43:45It's very risky.
43:54The passage is tricky for several meters, and they have to climb without ropes.
43:59Anyway, they didn't bring any.
44:01Scarves will have to do.
44:03They would lose too much time if they rope the group up for each difficult passage.
44:09They don't have any water bottles, and everyone is dehydrated by the physical effort and the dry air.
44:25But no one drinks the icy river water.
44:28They all wait for a break to make tea.
44:34In June, Shakya and the others will return to bring back the school children, walking four or five days through the mountains.
44:53They need the children to help in the fields.
44:56Each family has only four months to store up enough food before winter returns.
45:01The people of Lingshed are poor, and without the help of sponsors, the children would not be able to study in late.
45:18The men spend several weeks every year on the road to the school.
45:22The world is changing, and they know that those who study will be better equipped to adapt, as their traditions are overturned.
45:29The children have never seen a juniper so easy to reach.
45:37They will burn it tomorrow morning for the gods, to protect the caravan on the river.
45:43Everyone knows this trip is extremely dangerous, but there's a chance they won't make it through.
45:48It all depends on the demons.
45:50The caravan plans to stop in the caves of Tiliddo.
46:05It's still far, and despite their fatigue, they have to remain careful, not get distracted, and listen carefully to the sound of their steps on the ice.
46:18The sunlight has left the gorge.
46:33The temperature drops, and the wind has picked up.
46:36They have to climb along the rocks two more times.
46:39Yet none of the children ever complains about the cold or the length of this interminable trip.
46:57Life is hard here.
46:58They become used to struggling at an early age.
47:09One more narrow pass, and then another.
47:16It's not much further, says Shakya.
47:18Everyone wants to believe him.
47:20They hurry along.
47:22They finally reach the caves.
47:40Everyone agrees to share the shelters and give the best ones to the children.
47:45It's the last night on the river.
47:47After conquering the Chadar, the youngest are about to discover the large town of Leh.
47:54Later, once they are students, far from their villages, will they become strangers to their own world?
48:00Or, rich with knowledge, will they return to help their people adapt to the changes already underway?
48:07After walking for four days, the frozen corridor opens up gradually.
48:36And lets in some sunlight.
48:38It's not as cold.
48:40The mountains are no longer covered with snow.
48:43Ladakh, finally.
48:45The Chadar ends here, where the river flows into the Indus.
48:50The Chadar is the only link to the outside world in the winter.
48:55But the Zanskari are awaiting the construction of the Chadar Road.
48:59An ambitious project that will follow the gorges of the frozen river and will remain open all year round.
49:06The Chadar Road will make a big difference to Zanskar.
49:10Because travelling on the river is tricky.
49:12Once the road is built, Zanskar will be able to develop.
49:16The only drawback is we won't be able to work as porters on the Chadar any longer.
49:23When the Zanskari are ill, they have to travel along the Chadar to get treatment in Leh.
49:27If they are too ill, they can no longer walk down the Chadar.
49:32You'll be a good thing for the Zanskari.
49:38The journey will be easier.
49:40The Zanskari are very poor.
49:43When the Chadar Road is built, we hope it will alleviate poverty.
49:47Now the summer trail connects us to a Muslim district.
49:52We feel much closer to the people in Leh than those in Cargill.
49:56Because we share the same background in religion, Buddhism.
50:03Leh is a relatively calm little town in winter.
50:07But after you cross the frozen river, the cars, restaurants and stores seem like another world.
50:16A world where you can buy clothes and food.
50:19And the Zanskaris, who are used to bartering, find plenty of ways to spend the little money they worked so hard to earn on the Chadar.
50:40After school started, the return trip to Zanskar was hard for the parents.
50:44Some barely made it through before the ice broke up and returned to Linshet over the Chadar.
50:59Others, who left several days later, had to turn around.
51:03The jumble of ice in the Chadar was replaced by the turbulent white water of the Zanskar.
51:08The ice trail has disappeared until next year.
51:11The ice trail has disappeared until next year.
Be the first to comment