The Taste of the Balkans: Ajvar Paprika Spread

DW (English)

How is ajvar actually made? This spicy bell pepper spread, often homemade, is a traditional fixture on the table in many Balkan countries. We were in North Macedonia to witness its preparation.

Transcript

00:00 Sweet, smoky and spicy.

00:04 This peppery spread known as ajvar is a defining part of Balkan cuisine.

00:09 A delicacy and for some the main course.

00:13 Throughout the Balkans, ajvar is more than just a gourmet snack.

00:17 Every country claims to have the best recipe.

00:21 It's a social and cultural phenomenon and part of the Macedonian DNA.

00:26 So what makes ajvar so special?

00:30 How is it made? And why is it known as Balkan caviar?

00:34 We went to the mountains of North Macedonia to find out.

00:37 In the Anjelof family home, everything revolves around the popular red pepper paste.

00:43 To many healthy years of friendship.

00:48 The Anjelofs swear by the juicy, red, pointed, Kortova kapija peppers.

00:53 It takes a full 4 kilos to make 1 kilo of good ajvar.

01:01 The Anjelofs run a small business producing ajvar following a traditional family recipe.

01:08 The village of Palikura lies in the middle of North Macedonia.

01:12 Many here have their own small bell pepper farms.

01:16 But 300 days of sunshine a year are not enough to bring out the typical, smoky taste of ajvar.

01:23 This comes from a special wood-burning stove used to thoroughly roast the peppers.

01:31 Once they're softened, the peppers are painstakingly stripped of their burnt skin by hand

01:36 and put through the food grinder, piece by piece, for hours on end.

01:43 We start making it in August and eat it all winter long, which is why we call it zimnica.

01:50 That means something like winter food.

01:54 We also eat it as an appetizer, with fruit brandy and cheese, or as breakfast.

01:59 These are traditions that have been with us for generations.

02:06 The peppers are seasoned with oil, salt and vinegar, cooked for an hour and stirred constantly.

02:12 The winter food is ready, at least for the angelofs.

02:16 They make their ajvar mainly for themselves and sell it in small quantities to their neighbors.

02:24 Generations of people in the Balkans have argued not only over who created ajvar,

02:29 but what ingredients go into the popular relish.

02:32 One thing seems clear.

02:34 The word ajvar comes from the Turkish "havjar," which means "salty fish roe," in other words, caviar.

02:42 Some people say ajvar looks like red caviar.

02:46 And the taste for this Balkan caviar has spread far beyond the region.

02:50 It can be found in many fine gourmet shops.

02:55 Pelagonia is one of many producers.

02:58 Following an old Macedonian recipe, Pelagonia wouldn't hear of garlic in their ajvar,

03:04 as is often the case in other Balkan countries.

03:07 Still, their factory produces different varieties.

03:15 At Pelagonia, we make ajvar using a combination of red peppers and eggplant,

03:20 and the eggplant gives it a very special flavor and texture. It makes the final product taste better.

03:29 But just as the angelofs do in the countryside, the team here roasts, peels, and stirs the ingredients all together,

03:36 and much of the work is done by hand.

03:39 The company exports their ajvar products to 20 countries.

03:46 Our customers give us feedback and tell us how they use ajvar.

03:51 That's very encouraging.

03:57 They eat it on toast or in burritos.

04:00 One of our customers reported on a really exciting combination with salmon and champagne.

04:05 It goes well with meat, too.

04:08 Salmon and champagne are not part of a typical Macedonian breakfast in the angelof household.

04:14 They have bread fried in oil, goat cheese and olives, and of course, two varieties of ajvar, mild and spicy.

04:23 And they wash it all down with a glass of homemade schnapps.

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