- 1/26/2024
In this episode, host Palesa Tembe comes to you from the lively suburb of Melville in Johannesburg. Plus, a Ugandan farmer aims to change the world, pioneering inclusivity in fashion and glass-beading against extinction.
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00:00 Malville, a suburb in Johannesburg, South Africa, is renowned for its eclectic energy
00:05 and artistic spirit.
00:07 Lined with trendy cafes, boutiques and street art, Malville attracts locals and visitors
00:12 alike.
00:13 But first…
00:14 We see how the House of Zandria in Malawi is pioneering inclusivity in the world of
00:20 fashion.
00:23 Discover how Robert Oneha uses hair in his art to speak out against cultural imperialism
00:29 in Nigeria.
00:33 Then find out how the Herd in Johannesburg creates contemporary glass beaded pieces rooted
00:38 in South African traditions.
00:44 I'm Pallisa Dembe and you're watching AfriMaxx.
00:47 In more than 30 years of its existence, the slow food movement is gaining more and more
01:05 recognition.
01:06 And now a young and prominent Ugandian is steering the wheel to the world's most influential
01:11 food NGO.
01:12 Meet agricultural activist and educator, Eddie Mukibi.
01:19 Edward Mukibi from Uganda is on a noble mission to make the world a better place by fostering
01:24 good nutrition.
01:25 Hi, I'm Edward Mukibi, I'm the president of Slow Food International.
01:33 I'm a farmer and an agronomist from Uganda.
01:36 My goal is to make sure that each and every human being on the planet has access to and
01:43 can enjoy good, clean and fair food.
01:45 At only 36 years old, Edward Mukibi is at the helm of the organization.
01:51 Slow Food over the years has expanded its reach to a remarkable 160 countries.
01:56 Edward makes several trips each year to the quaint town of Draa, the movement's headquarters.
02:03 To me as an African from Uganda, Slow Food means a grassroots network that is supporting
02:08 and working with local communities to build food sovereignty.
02:12 We work with communities of farmers, communities of young people, communities of indigenous
02:17 peoples.
02:18 Chisoga, nestled in the East African country of Uganda, is Eddie's hometown.
02:23 As the son of a humble father, he worked in the fields even as a youth.
02:27 Little did he know that sustainable cultivation would one day be his life mission.
02:32 I was forced to do agriculture as a punishment at school.
02:39 But this punishment turned out to be my lifetime passion and driving force to make change.
02:49 Slow Food's presence in Uganda dates back to 2006.
02:53 Farmer Noel Nanyonja's field is a model for the Slow Food group of Chisoga, showcasing
03:00 an inspiring blend of innovative farming techniques and cherished time-honored traditions.
03:06 At Slow Food Gardens, we embrace diversity in our garden.
03:12 We also make sure that we try to protect our plants, which are at risk of extinction, and
03:22 they provide food security.
03:24 There are many plants at risk of extinction, many techniques, many food cultures that the
03:29 Slow Food network is working every day to protect and to preserve.
03:35 Through the Slow Food procedure, communities are able to identify products at risk of extinction.
03:42 Slow Food Uganda has over 30,000 members and is active in many areas.
03:47 Slow Food Uganda holds many facets to its structure, such as Slow Food Gardens, Slow
03:53 Food Youth Network and Farmers Earth Markets, with local products and a so-called Chef's
03:59 Alliance.
04:00 To join the Cook's Alliance, the first thing the cook should have is the desire and the
04:10 willingness to make a change in the food system.
04:13 Betty Nakato runs a catering service.
04:17 Her journey with Slow Food spans seven years, during which she has revolved around the art
04:22 of crafting traditional dishes.
04:24 Slow Foods have really helped us to really embrace more of our culture and to give us
04:31 a sense of belonging.
04:32 I really thank God for the Slow Food, that they are trying to build that culture to empower
04:39 us in foods to have that culture that is not washed away.
04:43 The Slow Food movement originated in Piedmont in Northern Italy, known for delectable specialties
04:49 such as wine, hazelnuts, truffles and a plethora of other regional products.
04:54 The visionary founder of the organization, Carlo Petrini, along with a group of activists,
05:00 fought against fast food chains in Italy.
05:02 This pivotal movement unfolded in 1986, coincidentally the same year Edward Mukibi was born.
05:10 It's a challenge to take over leadership from such a big figure like Carlo Petrini, but
05:16 to me it's also I look at it as a learning opportunity.
05:20 I feel like I have a lot to offer.
05:24 I have a lot of experience to share with the world from my communities, from my country,
05:29 from my continent and that this is the only way we can bridge the ever-growing gap between
05:34 the North and the South.
05:37 Here at BRA Italy is a farmers market with local products.
05:42 It's a place where the agronomist feels at home, having also studied at the local Slow
05:47 Food University.
05:48 BRA helped also me to interact with other cultures, other people, but also to understand
05:58 the historical birthplace of slow food and where it all began.
06:02 Slow food has made a global fine imprint.
06:05 Here Eddie meets activists from diverse corners of the world.
06:08 Above all, he aspires to further invest in education and awareness.
06:14 So through restaurants, through farms, through slow food gardens in Africa, through many
06:21 other initiatives like the Slow Food Youth Academies, we are able to reach out to so
06:25 many people because only with a clear knowledge on how the food we eat and the system under
06:32 which it's produced is affecting the planet and our health is when we can make better
06:36 choices.
06:37 Eddie Mukibi is a wellspring of innovative ideas, often incubating them in the Slow
06:43 Food headquarters in Uganda.
06:46 Yet his cherished haven is his parents' farm and the farmers' fields where he can
06:51 roll up his sleeves and lend a hand.
07:00 Pioneering the future of sustainable foods for all.
07:04 Malville, a trendy hangout spot that boasts daytime fun and a thriving nightlife.
07:09 Ideal for enthusiasts of antiques, secondhand bookshops, thrifting and a great night out.
07:15 I'm about to head on a tour of this cultural hub with local restaurant manager, Smuda
07:20 Chuma.
07:21 How are you, Melissa?
07:22 Good, how are you?
07:23 I'm awesome.
07:24 Right this way.
07:25 Now Smuda, thank you so much for having me.
07:33 What is the attraction here in Malville?
07:35 The diversity, food specials, drink specials, music, culture, the list goes on.
07:42 Now for those of us who don't enjoy the nightlife, what can we experience here during
07:46 the day?
07:47 We have very beautiful breakfast spots, the likes of Telekrim, Aiti Kona, Bambanani.
07:56 And Bambanani is a very family-oriented restaurant.
08:00 They have spaces for children to play, where the adults eat.
08:06 We have art galleries at 27 boxes.
08:10 So there's just a lot to do even during the day.
08:13 It doesn't have to always be the nightlife you're coming here for.
08:18 And for those that do love the nightlife?
08:20 That is exactly why I brought you here, Melissa.
08:23 This is the plug.
08:24 I manage the space.
08:25 We have good food, good music, live music sometimes, definitely beautiful cocktails
08:31 and nice drinks.
08:32 Well, I'm definitely looking forward to stepping inside and catching up with you later.
08:36 It'll be a pleasure to have you, Melissa.
08:39 All Shades of Beautiful is an inclusivity initiative launched by the House of Zandria
08:43 in 2021 in Malawi, which allows people from all walks of life to feel included and beautiful
08:50 while hitting the runway.
08:52 The Malawian fashion house, House of Zandria, is breaking an unspoken rule that still pervades
08:58 the fashion industry today.
09:00 Differently abled and beautiful cannot coexist.
09:08 So the gap that has always been there in the fashion industry was people wouldn't trust
09:13 a person that has a disability to be able to produce something.
09:16 They wouldn't feel or think they're beautiful enough to become a model.
09:25 We have a fashion designer that used to say back then she would make something nice and
09:30 make it maybe for a relative.
09:32 And when that relative goes somewhere and people compliment her and she says, "Well,
09:37 I have this designer."
09:38 And when people come and see her and see that she has a disability, they will change their
09:42 mind and think, "Ah, there's no way this one can produce something right."
09:46 But because of having All Shades of Beautiful and showcasing the work that those people
09:50 have done, it has built a trust and a belief that even persons with disabilities can be
09:57 in fashion.
09:58 They can be trusted as fashion designers and they can work also as models and parade on
10:04 the runway.
10:05 To be differently abled remains a blind spot in fashion's diversity agenda.
10:09 Even globally, the absence of differently abled models or designers is so stark that
10:15 inclusivity reports do not even feature a disability category.
10:19 So how was it that in Malawi, an inclusive fashion initiative was born?
10:30 House of Zandria, apart from making high-end clothes, we also focus on bringing about social
10:34 change using fashion.
10:36 So one of the ways we came up with to bring about social change using fashion is All Shades
10:41 of Beautiful initiative.
10:43 So basically All Shades of Beautiful is an initiative that is there to give a platform
10:47 to fashion designers with and without disabilities to showcase their work and talents through
10:53 the fashion show that we host annually.
10:56 To design for people who are differently abled, it has given me a lot of new ideas to work
11:02 with them.
11:03 I like to know how to make designs that would perfectly fit them without the need of help
11:11 from other people because some people prefer privacy.
11:15 Malawi like much of Africa isn't a very inclusive society.
11:20 People who are differently abled are often marginalized, either viewed with fear or hidden
11:25 by their families.
11:27 This makes this House of Zandria initiative all the more important.
11:31 For people to know me, it's all because of All Shades.
11:34 I'm able to be known to people.
11:38 One time I was able to showcase outside, that was in Portugal.
11:42 And also after that I was nominated for Shining Stars Africa Awards 2023.
11:50 So lucky enough I've won as Best Female Fashion Designer of the Year.
12:04 Disability has no physical limitations and initiatives like All Shades of Beautiful help
12:09 to promote inclusive access and opportunities.
12:13 All Shades of Beautiful isn't a profit making initiative.
12:19 We just want to ensure that people in Malawi and also outside Malawi are able to ensure
12:25 that we include people with disability in the fashion industry.
12:29 Considering how most of the times whenever there's a landmine show, we never see people
12:34 with disabilities there.
12:36 Through All Shades of Beautiful, that's when House of Zandria started adaptive fashion.
12:41 But if it wasn't for Shades of Beautiful, I don't think I would have even known what
12:44 adaptive fashion was.
12:46 So I think with the experience of All Shades of Beautiful, it's helped us to grow in a
12:51 sense of how to run things, how to do things.
12:58 The whole idea of All Shades of Beautiful is that we should be able to work with foundations
13:02 that take care of people with disabilities or in Malawi, just to ensure that we put designers
13:07 out there who have the talent but they don't have the platform to showcase their talent.
13:21 So there are times whenever we have sponsors that might sponsor us with fabrics, we do
13:27 provide fabrics to the designers.
13:30 Last year we were able to provide machines to people with disabilities that were able
13:34 to participate in All Shades.
13:37 And on top of that we have introduced a business incubation program where we are going to be
13:44 in camps training people with disabilities and also all designers who are able to participate
13:51 in All Shades.
13:53 The main aim of the business incubation program is that fashion designing shouldn't just be
14:00 a passion, that we should be able to make money out of it.
14:03 The aim of All Shades of Beautiful is to build brands.
14:06 We are helping fashion designers become entrepreneurs.
14:10 So what we have been doing is finding markets for them, finding a way they can make money
14:15 through their own ideas.
14:17 All Shades of Beautiful is putting a finger in the wound.
14:20 Fashion requires us to expand our philosophy of beauty and to radically redefine what it
14:25 means to be beautiful.
14:28 Now back to you Smuda.
14:35 You have mentioned that you manage one of the most loved live music spaces right here.
14:40 So what music do you typically feature and why?
14:43 Okay, so we normally have live jazz bands.
14:48 Then we have vinyl sessions where we have our DJs play vinyl only.
14:53 We have disco.
14:54 We just give people a taste of the old stuff, what we grew up listening to.
15:01 And how does your space fit in with the young modern African lifestyle that is here within
15:06 Melville?
15:07 Through our music, we give a platform to upcoming artists.
15:12 Whether it's live or they are DJs.
15:14 We always try and encourage the younger guys to come out and expose their talents.
15:21 You never know who's listening.
15:22 So many people that come through here are in the film industry, in the music industry.
15:27 We have a lot of these guys that come through.
15:29 So you never know when a young guy or someone is performing their art, someone picks it
15:34 up.
15:35 So we're just trying to expose the young talented creatives to a much more wider audience.
15:40 What a beautiful approach.
15:41 Thank you so much Smuda.
15:42 You're very welcome, Pallisan.
15:43 Historically, African hair has been demonized and thought to be unhealthy and unprofessional.
15:51 Amidst lawsuits over carcinogenic bleaching and hair straightening products, Nigeria's
15:55 Robert Oniha uses hair in his art to redefine identity, heritage and spirituality.
16:04 Why free your hair means free your mind.
16:08 Hair plays a very important role.
16:11 It gives us a sense of identity.
16:16 It's a statement showing everyone else who we are.
16:19 In specific cultures, our hair can show our social status, our marital status, our age
16:27 in fact.
16:28 So hair is a form of unspoken language, almost like music.
16:34 Nigerian artist Robert Oniha uses African hair to remind both Nigerians and Nigerians
16:40 across the continent about the significance and complexities of our cultures that seem
16:45 to be dying out.
16:46 A few years ago, at least for women, if they go to the workplace with their Afro or their
16:51 Converse, it's seen as untidy or unprofessional.
16:57 Or the guys going with their dreadlocks, it's seen as unprofessional.
17:00 And if you ask why, the answer is because, because, full stop, it's unprofessional because
17:07 someone said so.
17:08 And the person that said it's unprofessional isn't anyone that owns this hair.
17:12 It's just teaching that was passed down to us.
17:14 So again, showing people how beautiful our hair can be without trying to westernize it
17:23 completely.
17:24 One of the unique features of African textured hair is its ability to be sculpted and molded
17:30 into various shapes and forms.
17:32 And that is exactly what Robert does.
17:34 Weaving and twisting synthetic hair directly on the canvas.
17:38 I use art because Africa itself is one giant artwork.
17:43 It is made of art.
17:44 You know, the Asians have their technology, the Greek, they have their democracy, but
17:50 we have our art.
17:51 This is something that wasn't taught to us.
17:55 We developed this on our own.
17:58 Our music is at the biggest right now.
18:01 Our painters are at the highest auctions all over the world right now because this is ours.
18:06 This is our own.
18:08 Terra Culture in Lagos is home of the creative arts that hosts theater plays and musicals
18:13 and also a mini art gallery.
18:16 So as an assistant art curator, I'm involved with the selection of the artworks that are
18:19 going to be put up, the arranging the calendar for exhibitions, so on and so forth.
18:25 So it's mostly the admin part of it.
18:27 There's the sales, keeping in touch with the customers, and then of course curating
18:33 exhibitions.
18:34 So this is called Ondatu.
18:35 Ondatu is the name of the hairstyle that adolescent males often use in Himba tribe in Namibia.
18:45 And that's the hairstyle that techno puts on.
18:49 A lot of people are confusing for, no, this isn't techno.
18:53 This is a hairstyle that has been in Namibia for centuries, for generations, from the beginning.
18:58 Like how I said that hair can distinguish people, it's their culture and their identity.
19:04 This hairstyle is the Himba tribe.
19:06 You cannot confuse it or mix it anyway.
19:08 I would like to see my work all over the world, outside this continent, anywhere outside this
19:15 continent.
19:16 I need to be able to teach as many people as possible.
19:18 So that's my goal.
19:20 Robert has put the average Nigerian back on the barber's chair to cut off wrong beliefs,
19:25 shaping a free mind.
19:32 Hair in Africa is about more than just looks.
19:36 Tapestry creator Omba Limtetwa from Johannesburg founded The Herd to fight against the erasure
19:41 of traditional crafts through cultural appropriation.
19:44 Beaded, bold and beautiful.
19:48 But did you know that this tapestry for sports label Nike was made by Nguni women?
19:53 Let's find out why and how The Herd is maintaining the traditional cultural heritage of glass
19:59 beading and combating the dilution of the craft at the same time.
20:04 People are focusing on the Western ways of making money.
20:08 We are taking the traditional, making it modern and making it recognized.
20:14 Omba Limtetwa had an interest in beading, a dyeing craft deeply rooted in her Nguni
20:18 culture.
20:19 Why did she decide to revive the art of glass beading and why did she use the bead as a
20:23 base for a large tapestry?
20:26 So I grew up in a very urban setting.
20:32 I went to multiracial schools.
20:35 After high school, I felt very disconnected and detached from my own heritage and culture.
20:44 And I was trying to find a way to find myself or what it means to be an urban Zulu woman
20:53 with all these westernized ways of living.
20:57 So when I was doing my research, I came across the compelling story of the bead.
21:05 And when you look at the story of the bead and how it's traveled and how it's now incorporated
21:11 in our traditional way, it's an interesting way to find out more about who you are.
21:20 When I think about like history and recordings, you know, I don't think what was written about
21:26 the actual people is true because I think it's very biased.
21:31 And I mean, they thought black people were primitive.
21:34 So when you take an object, at least that object has somewhat of like a real story.
21:42 So through that object, through the bead, that really like unveiled a lot about Zulu
21:48 culture.
21:50 In order to make a tapestry of the scale that adorns the Shafa Stadium in Soweto, Mbali
21:55 had to form a team to physically produce her designs, a task that has been far from easy.
22:01 So how did she get along with her Nguni crafters?
22:04 So I did a whole lot of research online to see if I can find organizations that work
22:11 with beads.
22:13 And luckily I came across to an NGO called Siaseza Trust.
22:18 That NGO worked with a lot of groups, crafters.
22:23 In the beginning, it was definitely ladies, gokos that were from an older generation.
22:31 But as I got engaged and I started, you know, going into the communities and having conversations,
22:39 I realized that there's actually a whole lot more young people that are involved only because
22:46 they have to make a living.
22:48 I don't actually think it's by choice.
22:51 It's more by urgency.
22:54 The herd how Mbali calls her Nguni team ranges from two to 35 ladies.
22:59 Nompumelelo Matlangu is one of them.
23:01 What is it like to be amongst the few that can do this craft?
23:06 I learned how to bead from my auntie back home.
23:14 Preserving the craft is important because it's part of our cultures.
23:18 Izndebele, Zulu, Tswana, all of our cultures.
23:25 Another thing we should note is that there aren't many jobs here.
23:29 If you have hands and you're able to do something with your hands, then you can work.
23:37 So it's important to have a skill.
23:43 The biggest project I worked on was in Soweto for Nike.
23:49 It was a very big piece, like the size of a garage, a single garage.
23:55 Shapa Soweto Stadium was built by Nike with the intention of enabling access, growth and
24:00 development of female athletes across all sporting codes.
24:03 How come the Herds 4.2m beaded tapestry had the honor of being a highlight in the safe
24:09 space for women?
24:12 So the quote that's written on this tapestry by Bill Bowerman, "If you have a body, then
24:19 you are an athlete," really just for me symbolizes the fact that if you have a body, you're able
24:26 to achieve anything.
24:27 Whether it's physical or mental, you have the ability to move from one point to the
24:33 next point.
24:35 And I think what they are trying to achieve here, what they have achieved rather, allowing
24:40 the community to use this facility without fuss or frills.
24:45 That symbolizes that if you have a body, you can really engage in any form of activity.
24:52 With the Herd, we really are trying to involve community.
24:57 We really are trying to work with women, women who've been masters of this traditional African
25:03 craft and bring them to light.
25:06 This work in terms of beading or weaving definitely has a place.
25:11 We can create such beautiful pieces that resonate in contemporary spaces.
25:17 The old Nguni craft is here to stay.
25:20 Balium Tetwa and the Herd are constantly working to avoid its marginalization.
25:27 From Malville with love.
25:29 That's about all the time we have with you today.
25:31 For more information, make sure to check out dw.com/afrimax for more.
25:36 See you soon.
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