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Seafood has always been a staple of the Japanese diet thanks to the bountiful ocean that surrounds the island country, and unagi (eel) is no exception. Unagi harvested from freshwater is prepared in a traditional style known as kabayaki which has its roots reaching back all the way to the Genroku period (1688 – 1704). Contrary to the Kansai region’s method, which first slices open the belly of the unagi, in Edo, the process begins by splitting down the back and laying it flat. Skillfully halving the eel this way not only gives it that iconic Japanese look, but it also helps with the cooking process and keeps all that delicious, sweet sauce perfectly in place as the light, fluffy slices are skewered, broiled, steamed, flavored, and then finally grilled and flavored again.

Unlike the fast food fashion of soba which appealed mostly to busy workers on the street looking for a quick meal, kabayaki was more of a delicacy and also found popularity among women and children who preferred to eat unagi away from the noisy atmosphere of typical sake-soaked establishments or casually grab a bite from the local food stalls. The most beloved dishes included broiled eel served with rice like unagi-meshi and una-ju, which is served a classy wooden box known as jubako.

Unagi fished right from Tokyo Bay still tickled the appetite of the working crowd though, thanks to its rich, energizing nutrients. It became common for the people of Edo to refresh their tired bodies in the heat of summer with a satisfying bowl of unagi. The concept was so widespread that a Hiraga Gennai, a prominent doctor and intellectual at the time, recommended a healthy serving of eel on what is called Doyo-no-ushi-no-hi — “the midsummer day of the ox” — during the hottest time of the year. Though the specific date changes each year, the event is still celebrated between