HOW TO Balayage hair - Balayage Tutorial - Balayage technique
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00:00 Hi, I'm Min Kim, Master Color Specialist at Butterfly Studio Salon and I'm coming to you
00:09 live with American Salon at our flagship academy here in New York City.
00:16 And I cannot wait to share the incredible It Looks created by L'Oreal Professionnel
00:24 for 2017.
00:26 So this is my lovely model, MK.
00:30 We have the same initials by the way, Min Kim, Mary Kate.
00:34 Anyway, back to the hair.
00:36 We pre-worked some of her base color using Enoa 5.8 on the back with 20 volume and just
00:46 at the hairline I used 6.8 also with 20 volume and this was to refresh and really give her
00:54 that rich backdrop for the tiger eye.
00:57 That's going to be the first look that I'm going to share my three tips with you on how
01:03 to talk about this trend with your clients.
01:06 So MK, Enoa 20 volume, 6.8 at the front, 5.8 at the back and on the mid-lengths and the
01:16 ends I pulled through equal parts of 5.8 and 6.8 with L'Oreal Professionnel's Enoa.
01:24 And in case you didn't know, that stands for Innovative No Ammonia.
01:29 So we're going to get started with the tiger eye trend.
01:33 So how are you going to speak to your clients about what this trend is?
01:38 So MK, I'm going to ask you a question.
01:42 Do you know what tiger eye is?
01:44 A little bit.
01:46 I know that it's a stone, but that's kind of all I know about it.
01:50 So MK knows it's a stone, but did you know that it's a stone that has healing properties?
01:57 No, but I love that.
01:58 She loves that by the way.
02:00 So what I love about this for a fall trend is that when you think about all of our clients
02:06 that come in during the summer, everyone wants more and blonde, right?
02:12 So if you think about how the tiger eye has healing properties, this is a fantastic trend
02:19 to help heal that hair while we take them into their new fall look.
02:24 So it correlates exactly with what the stone represents, but it's also a nice way for you
02:30 to talk to your clients about what it is.
02:34 So I'm going to create the shades of gold, bronze, and reddish tones using balayage.
02:44 So the important thing also is that you want to talk to your clients about how you're going
02:50 to create a inner glow within this rich, beautiful base by creating ribbons of the bronze, gold,
03:00 and red tones.
03:01 So it's a beautiful, beautiful technique to help enhance any of those fall shades.
03:09 Now another great point when you're speaking with your guests is to talk about celebrities,
03:16 right?
03:17 Between, well I feel like when we talk about hair, it's usually food, right?
03:22 And another thing that women love is jewels, so we've got that with the tiger eye, and
03:28 now we bring in the celebrities.
03:30 So how about those beautiful two babes, Jennifer Lopez and Jessica Alba?
03:37 Not only are they super smart and successful entrepreneurs, but they are rocking this trend
03:44 to the fullest.
03:46 So I've got my first two pieces started here, and we're really focusing on playing up the
03:51 layers that we have on MK's hair.
03:56 And I'm just tucking in the plastic, and a stylist tip for all you colorists out there
04:02 is that you don't want to work too hard, right?
04:06 We're going to create levels of warm shades by using our balayage application, and the
04:13 product that I'm using is Multi-Techniques powder with 30 volume, and that's by L'Oreal
04:20 Professionnel, and I have mixed 30 grams of powder with 8 milliliters of Smart Bond.
04:27 And for those of you that don't know, Smart Bond is an amazing tool that I use with all
04:33 of my products to help protect the hair.
04:36 So what's not to love about that?
04:41 I have a question from Amber.
04:44 Do you recommend this look for a client with and without previously colored hair?
04:51 Amber, that's a great question.
04:53 Do I recommend this look for a client with and without previously colored hair?
04:59 Absolutely.
05:01 The fantastic thing about this trend is that it's absolutely customizable.
05:06 So the inspiration for this is the tiger eye, which again is based on warm shades, but if
05:12 you have someone that's got a slightly more neutral base, you can absolutely customize
05:17 it whether or not they have color-treated hair.
05:22 Thank you for your question, Amber.
05:25 Now these pieces are more saturated, which is going to give me better lift.
05:31 So that's going to give me my golden, more bronzy shade.
05:36 Now towards the back of the hair, I'm picking up very little product, and I'm going to do
05:41 a dryer application.
05:43 So if you want to come in and look at the difference between these two pieces, you can
05:49 see this looks a lot wetter, more saturated, and this piece has more of that streaky finish
05:56 where you can actually see the strands of the hair.
05:59 This means that the product is going to dry out sooner than the other pieces that I've
06:03 done, which is going to give me my different shades within this tiger eye.
06:08 We have a question from Ashley.
06:22 So Ashley wants to know how many levels will this lift on color-treated hair.
06:29 Well, thank you for your question, Ashley.
06:32 I'm using L'Oreal Professionnel's Multi-Techniques Powder with 30 volume, and that will give
06:38 me up to eight levels of lift depending on the history of the hair.
06:43 So with the Inoa, one of the things that I love about Inoa is that it lifts so beautifully
06:49 when you put highlights on it.
06:51 And again, the tiger eye trend, I'm showing you how to do this with balayage because that's
06:56 my thing and it's my passion, but you can absolutely customize this behind the chair
07:01 when you're working to use with foils, TZ lights, a clay lightener.
07:07 You don't necessarily have to use the plastic.
07:10 So we're bringing you the looks that are happening inspired from the runways, the trends, the
07:17 celebrities like Jennifer and Jessica Alba.
07:28 And it's absolutely something that you can make work for every guest sitting in the chair.
07:34 And look at how beautiful and reflective that shine is that I get with the Inoa.
07:40 So again, it's a really wonderful backdrop to creating those multi-dimensional ribbons
07:48 of gold, bronze, and red shades.
07:51 So remember, this is going to be our healing fall hair look.
07:57 So the tiger eye, as MK knew, has healing properties.
08:03 So a lot of times, our guests come in and they really want to get some change for the
08:09 fall.
08:10 They're bored, right?
08:12 So doing a base application like this is a wonderful way to spice it up.
08:19 You could also do low lights with highlights to create the different tones.
08:24 And if you've got those clients with really faded, sun-kissed ends, you could do it simply
08:30 with low lights.
08:40 So the tiger eye trend for all of my new friends watching, can I see some hearts, please?
08:47 Lots of hearts and little kissy faces.
08:50 The tiger eye trend is a look for 2017 by L'Oreal Professionnel.
08:59 And we are predicting this is going to be the hottest thing for fall.
09:03 And it's hot because you have a wonderful backdrop of rich, warm bases and a mixture
09:11 of golden, bronze, and red tones.
09:15 So I'm using the balayage method to show you this technique, but it is 100% customizable
09:23 for you behind the chair.
09:26 Now don't forget, if you don't know how to do balayage, you can register for our classes
09:32 here at the Academy in New York, in Newport, and in Denver at lpregister.com/academy.
09:41 And we offer certification courses which will help to elevate your skills as a hairdresser
09:47 and a person.
09:49 That's kind of how I got started.
09:52 I remember the first time I did balayage, I looked at my boss, Katia, and I was like,
09:59 "Balayage kind of stinks.
10:01 It's ugly."
10:02 And she called up her friend, Ms. Nancy Braun, and she called her up and said that, "I've
10:08 got this kid who really needs some help.
10:10 I think she could do it, but she's not loving it."
10:13 So she threw me to Ms. Nancy, and sure enough, after being with Nancy for a couple classes,
10:20 I realized that it wasn't balayage that sucked, it was me.
10:24 So after practice, and let me tell you, the first time I did a piece, it looked like I
10:29 squirted toothpaste on my model's hair.
10:33 And I practiced and practiced, and I'm telling you that when I worked on mannequin heads
10:39 and brought in every mannequin head and showed them all the things that you could do with
10:45 balayage, it definitely became a wonderful tool.
10:49 So even though you can register for our classes at www.lpregister.com/academy, you can certainly
11:03 practice and it's a must.
11:05 I'm always learning things, whether I'm traveling on the road or doing a class in salon or at
11:12 a show.
11:13 So it's definitely something that you want to constantly hone in on.
11:19 And remember, when you're talking about this trend, don't forget to utilize everything
11:25 that you have.
11:26 So whether it's celebrity inspiration, Jessica Alba, Jennifer Lopez, food inspiration, or
11:34 jewels like the tiger eye, it gives you a lot of places where you can connect with people.
11:42 Really, it's not just necessarily about what the trend is, but how to make it relatable
11:49 and understanding for them.
11:52 So figure out, is your client a foodie?
11:54 Are they someone that loves jewels?
11:57 Whatever it is, keep it a dialogue and a conversation so that they really understand what they're
12:03 getting.
12:05 It's really about managing expectations and that's why the consultation is so important.
12:13 So for those just joining, they were curious about the base color and what the formula
12:20 is.
12:21 This beautiful base color that I achieved on MK was with 5.8 ENOA 20 volume on the regrowth
12:30 in the back and at the hairline in the front, I did 6.8 with 20 volume.
12:37 Now for those of you that are wondering why I did the lighter formula at the hairline,
12:42 how many of you have had guests that have come in and it looks like they have oil on
12:48 the front of their hair because it's black?
12:51 Well let's be real, most clients are using products that are anti-aging or the hair in
12:56 general is just more porous around the face.
13:00 So by using a lighter formula, it helps to really maintain that natural vibe of hair.
13:08 Nothing looks worse when the front is darker than the back so I used ENOA 20 volume 6.8
13:17 at the front and 5.8 at the back.
13:21 And through the mid-lengths and the ends, I did equal parts of 6.8 and 5.8 ENOA with
13:30 10 volume.
13:31 And that was really just to add a little bit of deposit.
13:37 Now you can see I'm going through and I'm not necessarily taking all the pieces to the
13:41 top and the stylist tip for this trend again is to make sure that you're not doing too
13:47 much.
13:48 So we put this beautiful base on with the ENOA 5.8 and 6.8 with 20 volume on the base.
13:56 We did 5.8 equal parts 6.8 with 10 volume on the mid-lengths and ends.
14:03 And if you go in and do too much, you're taking away the base.
14:07 So again, it's really to give you something to pop those beautiful shades of bronze, gold,
14:14 and red tones.
14:15 So then, Elizabeth is asking, "What if you have gray hair at the roots?
14:21 Can you go lighter to hide the gray?"
14:25 Elizabeth is asking a wonderful question.
14:29 She wants to know, "Can I go lighter at the roots to hide the grays?"
14:34 Elizabeth, my suggestion is unless you have done a previous highlight before that's all
14:41 the way to the scalp, I wouldn't make the base lighter until you go in to do that retouch.
14:48 The reason I like to do that is just to make sure that the base doesn't end up looking
14:53 too dark after you've done that initial highlight.
14:56 But as you can see with MK's application, my interpretation of the tiger eye is going
15:03 to have a really soft rooted effect.
15:08 So if she wants to do more of the tiger eye, the next time she comes in, I can connect
15:13 these pieces up higher.
15:15 So it's also giving her the option of living with this richer base in the beginning of
15:21 fall.
15:23 And let's see, winter's probably another five to six months.
15:28 So maybe she gets two or three more retouches.
15:31 And by that third visit, we're bringing the highlights up higher so that we're ready for
15:36 our new summer look.
15:39 So I'm going to turn to this side and we're going to finish on the right.
15:52 And this is a really beautiful trend that is going to work with multiple clients.
16:01 And if you have someone that's a little bit shy and is afraid of warmer colors, a way
16:07 to make this work is to use a shade that is going to be more neutral on the skin.
16:17 So a 5.8 with 20 volume on the back is what I did for the retouch.
16:25 And the front hairline, I used 6.8 with 20 volume.
16:30 And I pulled through 5.8 equal parts 6.8 with 10 volume on the mid-lengths and ends.
16:40 And my balayage highlight, I am using Multi-Techniques powder with 30 volume.
16:47 I mix 30 grams of the powder with 8 milliliters of Smart Bond, which is L'Oreal Professionnel's
16:56 Bond Treatment, which is amazing.
16:59 I use it on all of my clients and they're obsessed.
17:03 And the take-home also is fantastic.
17:05 And one of the things that I love is that it smells so good.
17:10 It's amazing.
17:13 So all of these products are available at Salon Centric.
17:19 You can purchase them there.
17:21 You can register for classes at lpregister.com/academy.
17:31 And we offer classes at our academies in New York City, in Denver, and in Newport Beach.
17:49 This process takes, with a single process, a NOAA process is for 35 minutes once you've
17:55 gotten that on.
17:56 So the highlight application, if I was working behind the chair, this was a split head profile
18:03 parting.
18:04 I probably did one, two, three, five subsections.
18:08 The highlight itself should only take about 20 minutes.
18:12 So we're really talking about a quick service that's going to be very easy to transition
18:20 your clients from summer into fall.
18:23 So it's a really wonderful, wonderful way to introduce your client to ENOA, which is
18:31 short for Innovative No Ammonia, and the Multi-Techniques Powder, which is part of L'Oreal Professionnel's
18:39 Blonde Studio.
18:41 So the stylist tip I have for all of you is remember to take really big pieces.
18:48 And this is going to help to create the ribbons of the tones that are found in tiger eye,
18:53 which are gold, bronze, and shades of red.
18:58 And remember, less is more.
19:00 If you do too much, you're not going to be able to see that beautiful base that we put
19:08 on.
19:09 So again, the base is 6.8 with 20 volume at the front.
19:14 I did 5.8 with 20 volume at the back.
19:19 And the mid-lengths and the ends, I pulled through equal parts of 5.8 and 6.8 with 10
19:29 volume.
19:30 And that was just to add some deposit.
19:31 MK had a faded level six oxidized color from the summer.
19:38 So again, MK really is that ideal candidate.
19:41 So when you're talking about this trend, make sure you're utilizing everything that you
19:46 have as far as conversation points with your clients.
19:50 So I always love to talk about celebrities, and celebrities that are rocking this trend
19:56 right now are Jessica Alba and JLo.
19:59 I feel like they're super hot, they're smart, they're successful, and they're not blondes.
20:05 So I think everyone has the blonde inspiration of Giselle, Bella, Gigi.
20:11 They're gorgeous.
20:13 But having these two brunettes who are rocking the tiger eye right now is a really easy way
20:19 for you to talk to your clients about what this trend is.
20:24 And remember, tiger eye is a stone that has healing properties.
20:28 So this is a trend that we're talking about that is going to help to heal that summer
20:33 hair and bring that blonde back into a really warm bronzy finish.
20:42 So I think we have my second model, who is Rebecca Becca.
20:50 Her name's actually just Rebecca, but I'm goofy, so I call her Rebecca Becca.
20:55 And I'm going to bring her in, and she is rocking the root shadow trend.
21:03 So I'm going to bring her in.
21:07 And don't forget to check out our Instagram @lorealeproeducationUS.
21:15 And what we did with Rebecca is we're going to pull out her before photo.
21:22 And you can see-- can you guys see?
21:25 Is there a glare?
21:27 How we doing?
21:29 We're going to tilt the hearts if there's no glare.
21:34 Am I getting lots of hearts?
21:36 Heart, heart, heart, heart.
21:40 So the before photo is going to show you that she had a lot of regrowth on her beautiful
21:45 natural level eight.
21:47 So what made me laugh is after I gave Rebecca Becca highlights, she was commenting that
21:54 she's never been so blonde before, which to me is hilarious because she's a natural level
21:59 eight.
22:00 So everyone that's a colorist behind the chair, you know what I'm talking about?
22:03 Because they come in with a little bit of regrowth, and they're like, my hair is black.
22:07 So it gave me a chuckle.
22:09 But the trend that we demoed on Rebecca Becca is the root shadow.
22:13 So with the root shadow, I used Enoa 8.3 gold natural and 9.31 equal parts with 10 volume.
22:24 And I did an application one inch down off her regrowth.
22:30 And I left the hairline out.
22:32 And what that did is gave us a shadow so that you have those clients that come in, and they
22:39 take two to three weeks before they really like their color.
22:43 So this is an awesome technique to use where they're going to love their color from the
22:49 very beginning.
22:51 So the formula I used was 10 volume Enoa 8.3 gold natural with 9.31, that's equal parts.
23:02 And I applied the entire head first.
23:06 And then we went back in and did the hairline.
23:08 So I wanted to maintain the integrity of a natural sun-kissed blonde, which always lives
23:14 a little bit lighter at the front, which is why I left the front out for last.
23:20 And another tip with this application is I did the one inch root shadow application on
23:28 her base in a horizontal sectioning.
23:32 And then after I went in, I cross-checked my work and went in and double-checked it
23:37 vertically.
23:39 And this way, we're making sure that there aren't any funny lines so that when we're
23:44 creating the shadow, it truly does look like a beautiful, even canvas.
23:50 So Rebecca Beka, how do you feel?
23:51 I feel great.
23:52 I love it.
23:53 I hate it when they're so miserable.
23:58 So that's a beautiful transformation.
24:00 It is great.
24:01 I'm obsessed.
24:02 You did a great job.
24:03 Thank you.
24:04 You're a great model.
24:05 Thank you.
24:06 It was so much fun sharing the root shadow and tiger eye with you.
24:12 Remember to use your celebrity inspiration, Jennifer Lopez, Jessica Alba.
24:18 Remember that all girls love Jules, the tiger eye.
24:23 And this is something that you can use quickly behind the chair.
24:27 And you want to make sure that you're not working too hard by doing too much and that
24:31 you're really being clear in your consultation about what the expectation is.
24:37 Thank you so much, American Salon, L'Oreal Professionnel, Blonde Studio, Enoa.
24:43 I'm obsessed.
24:44 I love you all.
24:45 Thanks for tuning in.
24:46 [BLANK_AUDIO]