How to cut long layered haircut on Curly Hair
Category
🦄
CreativityTranscript
00:00 Are we rolling?
00:04 Hello everyone, my name is Mike Kirk.
00:07 First of all, I'm sorry I'm half an hour late and I'll explain in a minute why.
00:15 Not quite running on Swiss time, but here we are and this is going to be a super exciting
00:21 haircut.
00:22 So hello Los Angeles, New York and Switzerland of course.
00:26 I'm broadcasting live from Zurich, Switzerland and I'm going to share with you a really super
00:31 cool haircut.
00:32 Here my model, she has naturally curly hair.
00:37 I mean, unbelievable.
00:41 We're going to be adding some layers to it.
00:44 She loves volume and as we all know, big hair couldn't be more hot going on right now.
00:51 Kind of like almost the early 90s a little bit.
00:54 Her side here was cut short at one point, so this is still growing out.
01:00 So I'm going to blend this in.
01:04 And I'm going to explain as I go on.
01:06 Reason being why I'm a little bit late.
01:08 I've never met my model, just about 45 minutes ago and I was quite surprised the amount of
01:16 hair that's coming in.
01:18 So I had to kind of prep it a little bit and I did comb it through.
01:22 And what I did as well, I actually used some oil on the hair too, so I can run my finger
01:27 really nicely through.
01:30 The hair is exquisitely separated and the bottom, if you believe it or not, check this
01:34 out, look, it's straight.
01:39 So she's got these amazing wave curls and then the bottom is straight, which she was
01:45 just telling me that actually does not happen when actually her hair gets longer.
01:51 So that's why she's really excited, getting some layers.
01:53 We're going to get the curls back on and it's going to look really cool.
01:57 So we're going to start off the haircut by deciding the length and you can stand up.
02:14 Very good.
02:16 I'm going to spray a little bit of water over it, a really, really fine mist, super
02:23 fine mist, utmost important.
02:25 I'm kind of activating the, again, the oil that I put in at the hair end and especially
02:33 as well on the top layer, because it's the top layer that is really, really dry.
02:39 I'm working with a black, with a white cape for to have a nice contrast on what I'm going
02:46 to be doing.
02:47 And here we're deciding the length.
02:49 So that's where we're starting off the haircut, right here in the back.
02:54 And we're turning the cape around so we have a flat surface and combing all the hair straight
03:00 down.
03:01 If you want to, you can take a section for to cut this in two or three steps.
03:08 If you do so, please do it right above your occipital bone.
03:12 I am using at this point here, my newly launched this year K7 inch Royale.
03:21 Okay, combing everything down.
03:23 This is about the length.
03:26 And I'm also using my comb, the Kark comb 15/20 with the large side of the tooth.
03:39 Also she always wears her hair naturally wavy.
03:43 She likes it air dry.
03:45 So that's why we are using also the wide side of the comb for to give a nice separation.
03:55 And it makes it really easy to comb.
03:58 So just cutting straight through here, utmost important.
04:04 Okay run your fingers through as well.
04:07 This is about the length in the back.
04:11 Right on.
04:14 I'm gonna maybe take some weight out or add some shorter curls into it once the whole
04:20 haircut is done.
04:22 Okay.
04:23 This is about right now, we're building the haircut, we're creating everything because
04:27 she hasn't cut her hair for a long time.
04:29 So we're completely shaping this up.
04:31 And then we're gonna have her sit down.
04:37 Super.
04:38 All right.
04:39 All right.
04:40 So I'm gonna turn her around.
04:41 Very well.
04:54 Excellent.
04:55 I'm going to put a little bit again, a little bit of water over it, little tiny mist, that's
05:08 it of water.
05:09 Okay.
05:10 Over here, and I'm also gonna section off the hair here quickly into two sections.
05:25 Sorry about that.
05:28 There we go.
05:32 We're going to, this is where the hair splits naturally.
05:35 This is actually where we're cutting it from.
05:38 Because we're going to leave the bangs a little bit longer, not too, too, too short.
05:42 Obviously, it's going to be a longer bang.
05:45 And then here, very simple, which is gonna section off the head into two, right below
05:51 the crown to on top of the ear.
05:55 Do that on the left and on the right side as well.
06:01 This is a really great way how you can get rid of all that hair that you don't deal with
06:06 it right now.
06:07 There's a really great way on how to do this.
06:10 And then always check that the parting is level.
06:14 Here we are.
06:16 I'm going to switch to my Karksheer K-Curve Royale.
06:20 It is the only shear in our shear line that has opposing grip.
06:24 That means you can flip the scissor in your hand, cut to the right, cut to the left.
06:31 We're starting off with a triangle section, like so.
06:37 I'm taking here quite a bit of a triangle section.
06:43 I'm also checking here, I'm going to show you this here quickly.
06:46 This triangle section varies from person to person.
06:51 She has a fairly strong temple, so fairly close to her eyebrow on the left and on the
06:57 right.
06:58 So I'm focusing right here.
06:59 I would never take in hair from the temple, so I'm focusing right here on top.
07:05 But I went in a little bit deeper than normal.
07:09 Okay, putting the head right here.
07:12 Just going to turn her a little bit sideways.
07:16 And we're combing the hair straight out.
07:19 Combing the hair straight out here.
07:21 And we're cutting here.
07:26 This is our guide, our long bang right here.
07:30 This is the shortest part in this haircut.
07:33 Just going to grab it one more time, which also will be good because we're going to be
07:38 catching up to the hair that was cut here on the side.
07:42 One more time here.
07:43 Just going to take here.
07:46 So there you go.
07:49 Excellent.
07:50 This is perfect.
07:52 Just right here in the center of her jaw.
07:56 Okay, my next section is in the center.
08:00 And here I'm going to switch to my Karksheer K-Wide Royale.
08:06 The K-Wide Royale has polished edges and acts a little bit like a razor.
08:15 And this is the shear of choice I'm having now.
08:17 Of course, I don't want to cut any straight cutting lines on top of the layers.
08:26 So I'm taking a center section, like so.
08:30 Still combing here with the wide tooth comb.
08:36 Left and right, here we are.
08:38 Keep that right here, thank you.
08:41 Perfect.
08:42 45 degree hair angle.
08:44 And now, conventionally, we would be cutting the hair right here on top of our fingers.
08:50 But this time I'm going to change it around.
08:53 And I'm placing the shear in front.
08:56 I'm holding the scissor right here at the 90.
09:00 And all I do is open and close my shear.
09:04 As you can see here.
09:06 And this way, it's not cutting a straight line through.
09:10 It actually just slices it off, which is really nice.
09:14 So I don't have a straight cutting line.
09:16 I take a section right next by the curvature zone of the head.
09:22 Okay.
09:23 Like so.
09:24 I'm over directing it to her outer corner of the eye.
09:32 Right here, as you can see.
09:34 A 45 degree hair angle.
09:37 I'm pulling over to the right corner of her eye.
09:41 And place the shear again and just follow the guide.
09:44 The really great part about it is, is that you don't get here a straight line cut, which
09:50 is really nice.
09:51 And then here, the last section already.
09:57 Like so.
09:59 I'll be combing it up here as well to a 45.
10:09 And now I'm point cutting with the K-wide here beautifully.
10:18 And just shorten it.
10:22 Like so.
10:24 Which is a really great way to do this.
10:26 As you can see here, I'm over directing it here at a 45 point cutting with the K-wide,
10:33 which again doesn't leave any strong cutting lines.
10:37 Doing the same thing now on the other side.
10:41 Very simply.
10:42 By the curvature zone of the head.
10:46 I take a section.
10:51 And I'm going to bring it over to her outer corner of her left eye.
10:57 So I'm doing the same thing on the other side.
11:00 I always do that, especially when I cut layers, to get the left and the right side the same
11:07 length.
11:08 There you go.
11:11 Just follow the guide.
11:12 Excellent.
11:13 And then the last section here too.
11:17 Turning her over.
11:18 Now remember, here we had that little part that she cut, but she hadn't let them grow
11:24 out now for quite some time.
11:26 So we're just taking this here like so.
11:31 Thank you.
11:32 Just over directing this here at a 45.
11:36 Like so.
11:37 And I'm shortening it here.
11:41 And adjusting it.
11:42 So the side is almost blended in.
11:45 Not 100%, but pretty good.
11:50 Pretty good blended in with that shorter piece there.
11:53 Okay.
11:54 Now, before we're going to continue, I'm just going to double check quickly.
11:59 And I'm going to pull the hair straight towards me here, like so.
12:06 Just to dust it up here.
12:08 Just to make sure it gradually gets longer.
12:12 Perfect.
12:13 Same here as well.
12:17 The other side.
12:18 And then this side here, I don't really have to worry about it too much because we're still
12:23 missing a little bit of hair that is growing in.
12:26 But we definitely have it now nicely adjusted.
12:29 So the next haircut will be all growing in.
12:33 It'll be all good.
12:34 But as you can see here, it's the same shape.
12:37 Granted, we have more hair on the other side again because we're still missing a little
12:41 bit of hair over there.
12:42 So we're moving on.
12:44 I'm having a really good feeling here.
12:46 This is great.
12:47 I'm taking the clips out.
12:51 And I'm just going to spray the hair a little bit again.
12:56 Tiny bit just to reactivate that product that we had in.
13:04 This is not easy hair to cut, to be honest with you.
13:09 So if you ever think about doing a Facebook Live, use a model that has easy hair to start
13:18 off with.
13:20 But at the same token, this is pretty much what we have in an everyday salon life.
13:27 And we have to deal with all the different hair textures.
13:31 And what I also want to show you here is actually how all these corks here work for every possible
13:36 hair texture.
13:37 And of course, as well, my haircutting system, which is the great part, the easy part again,
13:42 because the cork haircutting system is easy and it's safe.
13:47 That's what's really cool.
13:48 So we're going to continue.
13:50 We're going to take a center section right above the occipital bone to the back of the
13:55 ear.
13:57 And I forgot to mention that I'm right handed.
14:00 I stand on the person's right side, which I did here in the very beginning as well.
14:05 Right now too, which is important.
14:08 So all the left handed people go over to the left.
14:11 I'm combing the hair straight up here.
14:15 And here you can see very well, the longest point from the side is the 45 degree angle.
14:23 And I'm point cutting here into it.
14:27 Okay, because she has such curly hair, you can make sure you cut off everything, but
14:35 you do not need to cut.
14:38 You can point cut easily.
14:40 So if like one section is a little bit shorter than the other, it's completely okay.
14:45 All right.
14:46 Same thing on the other side.
14:49 You can walk over to this side and push the hair up.
14:52 I'm just leaning over.
14:54 I find a little bit easier for me, but for anybody else, you can certainly walk over
15:01 and bring in the hair straight up.
15:03 Like so here as well, same guide from the side and I'm cutting straight through and
15:09 I'm joining here with the other, see that section on the other side.
15:15 So there you go.
15:16 And here we just added actually a few longer pieces, longer pieces, layers in here.
15:23 So now I'm going to reactivate the hair here a little bit again.
15:29 Making sure here.
15:33 Excellent.
15:34 And I'm also obviously approaching it afterwards too, when we let it air dry, just like the
15:48 same way as she does it at her house.
15:51 So that is important.
15:53 Excellent.
15:54 Super.
15:55 You can actually, here we are.
16:03 Now I'm taking a, I can actually stand up again.
16:07 This is much better.
16:08 Let me move the chair away.
16:09 Very good.
16:10 Super.
16:11 We can go here.
16:12 Awesome.
16:13 Nice.
16:16 Feels good.
16:21 Awesome.
16:22 Looks great.
16:24 So here, now we have to do is connect the sides to the back and I am going to take a
16:31 vertical section from on top of the head to the nape of the neck.
16:34 I'm going to comb that hair a little bit off.
16:38 Like so.
16:43 Super.
16:45 Just naturally falling it down.
16:48 Can you see here?
16:49 Beautifully how it just falls down.
16:55 So, and here I have to connect.
17:00 So I'm taking off a little bit that corner here and I'm doing this with the K-wide.
17:05 As you can see, it pushes any cuts.
17:08 This was the first chair like it on the market when I launched it like, goodness, it's over
17:13 10 years ago.
17:15 Like we polished off the edges.
17:17 This chair has left a big mark in the industry because a lot of other chair companies have
17:23 duplicated it.
17:25 Super cool.
17:26 It makes it a really true dry hair cutting chair, sliding chair.
17:30 I do know I have a lot of clients as well that use it on damp hair too.
17:34 But as you can see here, it's a little bit of like a freehand thing that you can use.
17:38 And especially if you have naturally curly hair, especially such curl, you don't want
17:43 to have too straight of a line cut.
17:46 That's why I've chosen this chair.
17:48 You can like just point cut here into it, which is really great.
17:51 You can totally sculpt, which is really nice.
17:54 Now we're going to do the same thing on the other side.
17:59 Same tool here on top of the head to the nape again.
18:04 You want to make sure you have hair from the nape because that's where you, this is where
18:10 your length is.
18:11 This is why you want to like blend this in here.
18:14 Again, we're just free handing this here perfectly.
18:20 Just step by step.
18:28 Great thing about it is this, the shear here is like a chisel.
18:33 Again, if you use a regular shear doing that, you get too many little corners and squares
18:39 into it.
18:42 Here you get a very soft line and soft line is of course perfect for her hair texture.
18:50 You don't want any hard lines.
18:52 You want soft lines.
18:56 You also have to make sure you don't get carried away because it's a lot of fun.
19:03 Excellent.
19:04 Cool.
19:05 Now you can have a seat again.
19:10 Right behind you.
19:11 Super.
19:12 You blend it in the left and the right.
19:15 Now all we have left here is to do the same thing here throughout the perimeter.
19:21 We have right here, the back of the head here, we have a length.
19:26 This is our guide.
19:27 So what we're doing here, I'm just going to do the lightest mist again of water over it.
19:35 The lightest mist.
19:37 Okay.
19:39 Very important.
19:43 Like so, taking that section and bringing everything straight up here and a point cut.
19:58 You let the outline drop.
20:01 Okay.
20:02 Same thing here too.
20:14 Like so.
20:15 Here, that's my guide.
20:17 Let the outline drop.
20:19 Here, point cut into it.
20:24 Excellent.
20:27 Section right next to it too.
20:29 Almost done here.
20:33 Take that whole section.
20:34 It's three sections.
20:35 One, center, two, on the right, three.
20:39 Bring it up like so here and point cut.
20:44 As I said, the most part was done in the center because we blended the left and the right.
20:51 Awesome.
20:52 So now the haircut is basically done.
20:57 What we're going to be doing now here is just we're going to spray this down again a little
21:04 bit.
21:05 I'm going to go back in here and just add a few shorter pieces too.
21:12 Make it a little bit more fun.
21:14 But here, absolutely, it's adding this really cool look.
21:19 We're bringing the curl alive.
21:22 Again, especially throughout the bottom where she had her straighter pieces that I showed
21:27 you in the very beginning.
21:29 So that's definitely not going to be the case anymore.
21:32 So what we're going to be doing here now, we're going to personalize now the haircut.
21:37 I'm going to take a section right here on the side.
21:45 And all I'm going to do here is I'm just going to disconnect a little bit.
21:49 Okay.
21:50 And here, I'm just going to flip my scissor.
21:53 I take the longest point.
21:55 Can you see that's the longest point from the bangs?
22:00 Like so.
22:01 I flip it around the shear.
22:03 Look, all I do is press.
22:05 You see how that goes?
22:06 It's just beautiful.
22:08 That's actually even more fun than a razor, believe it or not.
22:13 And you can use them any texture here.
22:15 There you go.
22:17 Obviously, although I do love razors, so you can't really say one tool or the other,
22:23 but this is just a really great tool because of its technology, what it does.
22:28 Again, this is the side that was already short, but now we adjusted the left and the right,
22:33 so we make it even here.
22:35 Look at that.
22:36 And you can just here slide beautifully through it.
22:39 Excellent.
22:40 So we have these little guys here in the front.
22:42 Now I'm going to take a further section.
22:48 That's why I love.
22:49 I always cut the base of my haircut, meaning the foundation, the actual cut, which we did
22:56 now.
22:57 It's like building a house.
22:58 You start off with digging out the, you know, like digging out to where the house goes.
23:05 Before you put on the roof, you put up the walls.
23:08 So I'm doing this the same thing.
23:09 So you're building up.
23:10 So after we've done the haircut, now we can go back in and kind of like personalize a
23:14 little bit.
23:15 What I'm going to be doing now here is just, I'm just going back in here and I'm just,
23:21 look at that, just add a little bit here of possess to it, just a few shorter pieces.
23:28 And the great thing about it is with this shear, it just slides through it and look
23:32 how little it is.
23:34 And when you do that on naturally curly hair, you should do it a little bit in like, like
23:38 how I'm doing it now.
23:40 So you actually leave a little bit of a mark.
23:42 So you're adding a few shorter pieces into it.
23:45 Okay.
23:46 I'm doing the same thing here on this side as well.
23:49 Just kind of like bring here a little bit of, a little bit of character into it.
23:57 And I'm not going to go too deep, babe.
23:58 So as you can see, I'm working really on the last quarter of the hair.
24:03 So, so give it a little bit of a shake here.
24:07 That looks really great.
24:09 Going to continue.
24:13 There's various ways on how you can personalize hair.
24:15 This is one of my favorite way to do this.
24:21 It's freehand, just kind of like where you think, Hey, that needs a little bit more.
24:25 It's where you go into it.
24:27 So here as well, just kind of lifting it here.
24:33 Very gently.
24:34 You can just slice that scissor through the hair without ripping on it.
24:41 Because if you use a precision blade and doing that, you will always have a pulling effect.
24:47 And especially on darker hair, you will see how you kind of like shove off the cuticle.
24:52 Okay.
24:53 So this really works great.
24:57 We're, sit tight, everybody.
25:01 Everybody watching from the US, we're having a Thanksgiving special coming up.
25:06 So check your emails.
25:08 If you're not, if you don't receive our newsletter, log online, MikeKarg.com and sign up for the
25:15 newsletter.
25:16 Also follow me on my Instagram, Mike_Karg.
25:21 And there you see all the travels.
25:23 My travels start again next week on Tuesday.
25:27 I will be leaving to the Dominican Republic.
25:31 And then from there, I'll be touring the US for about three and a half weeks till up to
25:38 Christmas.
25:39 So, but before we're going to talk Christmas, first you are celebrating Thanksgiving in
25:45 the States.
25:46 We do not celebrate that holiday here in Switzerland, but I will have a turkey dinner.
25:54 So this looks really, really great here.
25:58 I'm just taking here, this is another great way what you can do is you just grab like
26:05 two pieces of left and right, bring it back together here and shorten it.
26:12 You add left and right the same.
26:15 You just add a few individual pieces.
26:19 Perfect.
26:21 Excellent.
26:22 Super nice.
26:24 So now we're going to stand up one more time.
26:29 We're going to, excuse me, super.
26:35 Nope.
26:36 Good.
26:37 Very good.
26:38 Super.
26:39 So here, almost done.
26:44 What we're going to be doing here is going to turn the cake one more time around.
26:51 Sorry about that.
26:52 Super.
26:53 Thank you.
26:54 And here, we're just going to adjust the actual length here with the tip of the shear.
27:04 So like so, breaking up that straight from the beginning a little bit with my point,
27:13 just completely adjust the cake a little bit.
27:16 Make sure it's all on the same length with the point of the scissor.
27:25 Okay.
27:26 Especially when you have such curly, super cool hair.
27:30 Awesome.
27:31 This looks very, very awesome.
27:35 Totally in love with curls, with big hair.
27:39 It has almost a little bit of a shag feel to it, but long.
27:43 We have created a really cool long bang.
27:46 The great thing about it is this haircut will grow out like butter.
27:50 That's what it's all about.
27:51 That's what I'm thriving for, to give haircuts that grow out great and make people feel like
27:59 a million bucks.
28:01 How do you feel?
28:04 Good?
28:05 Awesome.
28:06 Super.
28:07 So, excellent.
28:08 So one more sit.
28:09 Let's style it a little bit.
28:10 You can turn that around.
28:13 Cool.
28:14 Great.
28:15 And then the next thing you can do here is, why don't we do this?
28:20 Put on your cool jacket again.
28:22 And I'll style the hair a little bit.
28:25 Super.
28:26 Cool.
28:27 You can have a seat.
28:30 Excellent.
28:31 So I'm going to take a little bit of water.
28:36 I'm going to do it the same way as she does at the house.
28:43 There you go.
28:45 Because the trick is that she can duplicate exactly that haircut again or that look again
28:54 like it is now.
28:55 But that should be super easy.
28:58 So, just a little bit of water here.
29:02 Excellent.
29:03 What I'm also going to do is I use a little bit of oil too.
29:09 Scrunch that in.
29:15 Then right here by her part, I'm just kind of like pulling it apart a little bit.
29:22 Just so the part is not the same.
29:25 Just going to pull it apart a bit.
29:28 That's it.
29:29 Super.
29:30 Turn you around again.
29:33 Brilliant.
29:34 So, now we're going to let this air dry.
29:40 But this is pretty much it.
29:43 What the hair will look.
29:46 We have here the super cool layers here on the side as you can see.
29:51 So we totally opened up that face.
29:54 Made it become alive.
29:55 We adjusted the side here.
29:57 Super nice.
29:58 I think that's pretty much all it is.
30:02 Loving it?
30:03 I love it.
30:04 Oh, cool.
30:05 So she smiles.
30:06 Awesome.
30:07 That's what we want to see.
30:08 Brilliant.
30:09 I'm going to sign off.
30:10 Stay tuned.
30:11 We might have a double feature.
30:14 So, stay tuned and enjoy Thanksgiving.
30:19 Thanks for watching.
30:21 We are greeting from Switzerland.
30:24 I hope you enjoyed it.
30:26 And see you on the show floor next year.
30:30 ICC is the first show.
30:32 Bye.
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