Brining and chilling albacore tuna yields a delectably firm, toothsome bite that's otherwise hard to get with this soft fish. The salt and sugar in the brine help to plump and firm it, so it doesn't just fall apart, as it normally would when heated.
Here, the fish is lightly cooked in olive oil with lemon peel, adding depth of flavor and a bit of brightness that complement its natural brine.
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