Freetown, Sierra Leone, a man disappears down an alley and returns with a carrier bag full of money. The driver sits and counts 1.2 million leones and only when satisfied hands over $400. It's illegal but it's a growing business. Everyone either is a money changer or has an uncle or friend who is. Many are ex combatants, they don't sleep, one eye always open. They have their territories and minders. Some of them handle $1000s of dollars a day for although the banks change money no-one uses them as the rate is bad and the queues last forever.